Help with studding!

[Q. Arrius]

I am from from bring an expert, but I have installed my share of studs. Enough to know that if you look into your bag/box of studs.....there could be a $17,000 piece of metal in there. (In all fairness, the overheated, blown engine is probably just $12k in parts and labor....but I'm sure a new engine would take till next summer to arrive. I'm not sure of the salvage value of the sled with a stud in the exchanger.)

As far as the silicone goes....since you have it, touch up the bathroom tub and maybe the grout lines. Then throw the tube away. It has no use anywhere outside of the bathroom. The AC protectors are stuck on with epoxy. Silicone has zero bite. I doubt even urethane would work.

I believe SJ is the resident pro on studs...but if he can't be summoned to the white courtesy phone, I'm happy to post my method to studding.

Q. Arrius

 

[Doc Harley]

I got loss in the first paragraph. Please reiterate.

I'm not looking for problems. I'll throw everything out and start over. No ego to bruise.

 

[78srx02]

Ok, last one. I just found that thread in regards to not studding up the middle, if using longer than 1.325???

I'm using 1.5? WTF?????

I used 1.450 triggers, they are not even close to contacting anything.

 

[Doc Harley]

I used 1.450 triggers, they are not even close to contacting anything.

Look up into front of tunnel. Some vent louver. While it probably wouldn't hit under normal cruising. Maybe others think a trip into triple digits could balloon the track enough......

 

[Q. Arrius]

Sorry....I just meant to say that a thrown stud could hit an exchanger and cause a lot of damage. If you have a hole in the exchanger....you'll quickly overheat. As others have mentioned...the studs can also scrape the bottom of the tunnel, exchangers, and the louvre in the front.

I'm not sure what help or suggestions you're looking for....so I'll just throw this out:

I'm sure I look took much into studding the track properly....I try to always tell myself to slow down, do each stud correctly, and think it through. This chassis is new to me as well, and obviously expensive. So I'm trying to be careful!

I would go to Woodys website and take a look at their install instructions. I have never used stud boy....so I have zero suggestions there.

Second, I would be sure to have a good torque wrench. Follow the maker's suggested torque specs. I am dealing with an AC f800 with 25+ tears at the studs. Not because of age or abuse....but rather the original owner over tightened the studs.

Your tunnel protectors should be set in place in the channel with epoxy. I'm not sure....but I'd bet the 3M stuff that comes with the AC kit is designed for heat/temp changes. Knowing A.Cat....its probably surplus stuff they could buy cheaply!

The hole cutter Woodys sells is well worth the money. It heats up well as you cut....if you keep moving, the cutter will melt through the rubber. Do NOT let the nubs cool off inside the hole cutter! It can be a pain to get the scrap rubber out.

Having an air ratchet is well worth it! If not...no big deal, just takes longer. If you do....obviously stop short of tight and finish with the torque wrench.

Another tip: I always Mark each stud as tight, with a paint marker.

I then let the sled sit for a few days as the studs seat themselves into the rubber. Only then, do I finish torquing each one. As I do so...each stud will get a second dash of paint marker.

I ride the sled for 300 miles, re check the torque, and then add a drop of "creeping lock tight". This is the green stuff, if I recall correctly.

I would use the pattern that goes with the studs maker, as others have said.

Last: I believe SJ or Cannondale suggested no double backers on this track, as it messes with ACats driver teeth. By coincidence, Woodys doesn't suggest doubles either. So I'm going all singles, 144 @ 1.325.

Hopefully, this is what you're looking for. Maybe SJ will chime in.

Q. Arrius

 

[**sj**]

hey ...did you already start cutting yet?

 

[Doc Harley]

hey ...did you already start cutting yet?

No.....waiting......what do you got?

 

[**sj**]

you need to use the cat or yam protectors and follow the install instructions...pay special attention to the screw which acts as a stopper to prevent the exchanger protectors from being forced forward out of the channel...

whatever template you use....from dead center ...block off 1.75" to the right and left for a total of 3.5" area to stay out of the center
IF YOU DONT WANT TO CHANCE HITTING THE LOUVERED VENT up front in the tunnel...and if you are using studs greater than .250" over the lug...this is the best guess at this time...I could bore you with the math...but even at a that quarter theres a risk...

follow q.arrius advice ...although I'll add the following:

Use a whiteout pen to mark your pattern....turn the track over after a half dozen times to double check your pattern...like carpentry...measure twice ....cut once...

Although doubles offer more support...they can cause vibration ...especially with a combo driver like ours....and parasitic losses..

I dont use woodys personally...tall shoulder only allows 15 lbs of tightening which I dont care for...

I always use blue thread locker even with nyloc nuts...

If you stud the outside.....stud every outside....

No plastic backers...in fact I use oversized alum backers for less stud deflection (layover)

Get the track cutter hot and keep it hot by keeping it moving in the cut hole...

again for reference ...heres mine

 

[Doc Harley]

Thank-you SJ, does a 1.5" studboy stud qualify as Equal to or less than the .250 over stud.

In others words, no worries about clearance and proceed?

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

Thank-you SJ, does a 1.5" studboy stud qualify as Equal to or less than the .250 over stud.

In others words, no worries about clearance and proceed?

1.5" Stud Boy is way over .250" stud penetration. My dealer (has sold close to 30 SW's) and he used the doo protectors (from kimpex) and crimped the ends.
No epoxy. Aluminum and plastic at -30F mated with anything might not be the greatest marriage.
FWIW, I used double backers in a 4-3-3 pattern with the 4's being doubles and all the 3's singles.
That gave me (10 x 16) = 160 studs in a 137" track. Woody' Gold Diggers 1.325".
Discussed this pattern with woody's rep at Toronto Show and he agreed that it would work fine.

 

[Doc Harley]

Well......I suppose I can replace the 1.5's with 1.3's and do whatever I want.

 

[jonlafon1]

Or stay with your 1.5 and stay out of the middle 3.5 inches. Personally think That is ALOT of area to stay out of but with longer studs > you really have no choice. I went with 1.325 with no regard for the center louvers

 

[Doc Harley]

Yep Yep!!!! It's a sad day. Lol!

 

[**sj**]

again to each their own...I personally am very picky with my studding..I did what I could with the room available..Im running 1.630 so you CAN run the 1.500 if you stay out of the middle 3.5"...that what I did and theres still plenty of scratch lines and remember the most traction is closest to the slide rail...

if you need anymore help let me know..

 

[uprider800]

Well......I suppose I can replace the 1.5's with 1.3's and do whatever I want.

JT run them 1.50s and just stay out of middle. I doing a 4 across pattern staying out of the middle and I'm running 1.50 fast trac studs.

This will be my setup. I bought a template and the pattern stays out of the middle 3.5.


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