wires
Not to steal this post but a question.
Why all the wire chaffing problems?? I had one also. I never had a single one on any Yamaha (or other brand) before?
But Yamaha quality? ( I wont mention this to my non Yamaha buddies)
What has changed? I see they are using smaller diameter wires in many places but chaffing is matter of the wire insulation, routing/movement. AND the 4 banger has less engine vibration...
What gives? QC?..
Not to steal this post but a question.
Why all the wire chaffing problems?? I had one also. I never had a single one on any Yamaha (or other brand) before?
But Yamaha quality? ( I wont mention this to my non Yamaha buddies)
What has changed? I see they are using smaller diameter wires in many places but chaffing is matter of the wire insulation, routing/movement. AND the 4 banger has less engine vibration...
What gives? QC?..
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
TonyVT, which wires were chaffed on yours and what model of machine?
hlmrx1 said:
My low templ light would come on any old time while riding (came on solid) I found the wire that controls it was cut in the nose under the tool box. The harness was rubbing on the metal bracket supporting the belly under the bumper on the right side of the nose. Very sharp edge.
The cut was VERY small and dificult to see. Shrink wrapped then taped up the whole harness again. Cut a piece of rubber hose and put it around the cut out of the metal bracket.
I have heard of many problems being caused by this area being cut into as well as under the handle bars, and even under the engine.
]
Good luck.....
T
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
short
if you do search you will find that i and others have been talking that same spot since 03 and yamaha has a servise advesery out on this sinse 04
if you do search you will find that i and others have been talking that same spot since 03 and yamaha has a servise advesery out on this sinse 04
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See if you positive or negative wire running to your electronic fuel pump is loose...BBY
pjwlk
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Re: read mountainsled quit dead in it's tracks
My 2003 RX-1 mysteriously died just after a short ride over to a friends place about 3 Km away. As I arrived the lights dimmed over a period of 6-8 seconds then went out completely, next the engine started sputtering and finally died. It had all the symptoms of a dying battery that wasn't being charged by the altenator. When I opened the cowling I could smell burnt wiring. The solenoid would click but the engine wouldn't turn over after that.
When I tore the sled apart to find the problem, I found a totally melted and burnt up starter (see attached pic). I also discovered that the starter solenoid contacts where burned and permanently open even though it clicked when turning the key. Everything else, fuses, wiring, battery, was okay. It appears that the starter was engaged and running for the entire 3 Km ride to my friends place. The starter overheated, the laquer on the coils melted which eventually caused a near dead short to ground. The short was bad enough to drop the system voltage low enough that the lights and motor did not have enough juice left to sustain their operation. After the motor stopped the starter could not be used again of course becuase it was melted. Originally I thought the key may have been stuck in the start position but I now believe the root cause to be a faulty starter solenoid. A check with a parts dealer revealed that there have been three revisions to this solenoid. I also spoke with a guy who's buddy has an R1 bike and experienced the same problem.
OUch!!! $430 CAD for a new starter and $59 CAD for a solenoid! I can't find any information from Yamaha on this problem and the two dealers I spoke with both say they've never seen or heard of this problem. Hmmm...
paparattler said:
My 2003 RX-1 mysteriously died just after a short ride over to a friends place about 3 Km away. As I arrived the lights dimmed over a period of 6-8 seconds then went out completely, next the engine started sputtering and finally died. It had all the symptoms of a dying battery that wasn't being charged by the altenator. When I opened the cowling I could smell burnt wiring. The solenoid would click but the engine wouldn't turn over after that.
When I tore the sled apart to find the problem, I found a totally melted and burnt up starter (see attached pic). I also discovered that the starter solenoid contacts where burned and permanently open even though it clicked when turning the key. Everything else, fuses, wiring, battery, was okay. It appears that the starter was engaged and running for the entire 3 Km ride to my friends place. The starter overheated, the laquer on the coils melted which eventually caused a near dead short to ground. The short was bad enough to drop the system voltage low enough that the lights and motor did not have enough juice left to sustain their operation. After the motor stopped the starter could not be used again of course becuase it was melted. Originally I thought the key may have been stuck in the start position but I now believe the root cause to be a faulty starter solenoid. A check with a parts dealer revealed that there have been three revisions to this solenoid. I also spoke with a guy who's buddy has an R1 bike and experienced the same problem.
OUch!!! $430 CAD for a new starter and $59 CAD for a solenoid! I can't find any information from Yamaha on this problem and the two dealers I spoke with both say they've never seen or heard of this problem. Hmmm...
Attachments
Man that sucks 
!!!
!!!
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Why not get out the voltmeter (VM) and electrical drawing? Start at the battery and trace the voltage through the ignition circuit. You indicate you have voltage at the jumper wires, so you must have a VM. But, voltage at the jumper wires tells you nothing about how far down the ignition circuit you have it.
As you test along the circuit's accessable points, when you can no longer read voltage, then you probably have found the point in the circuit that is just past your open in the circuit. Work your way back and look for a broken wire, etc. This assumes you have the key on and kill switch open.
Also, use an ohm meter across each fuse to verify they are good. Sometimes they look good and are really bad.
This an excellent opportunity to learn how to use a VM. Unless you are careless and short the VM's probes across wires, etc, you can't do any harm. Once you learn how to do this type of circuit tracing, most electrical problems are easy to find. This also makes you more independant of others and especially the dealer. The only exception could possibly be intermittant E-problems. Even with VM they can be a pistol. Then, it may be time to include the dealer.
Even if a sled is on warranty, I find the problem first and then take it to the dealer. It saves trips and keeps them from pokin' around, while trying to find the problem. I was a novice to AC's EFI. After a few times of trouble-shooting, I could find my own bad components. This saves a lot of $s, especially when you own Cats, becasue their early EFI did not hold up well. Twice I traced all the way down to the Stator, where you use the ohm meter to make the final resistance checks.
Last, but not least, if you want a good warranty, you buy the sled with the HP & features you want and then leave it stock. I kept telling my brother-in-law this on each trip we took, as I towed him in. (It's kind of the price he had to pay for his previous mods & the tow! Eh?) He's been leaving them stock lately. Oh, ... If you need a tow rope, I have my ole tow rope posted F/S in the classifieds. He kinda wore it out, though.
As you test along the circuit's accessable points, when you can no longer read voltage, then you probably have found the point in the circuit that is just past your open in the circuit. Work your way back and look for a broken wire, etc. This assumes you have the key on and kill switch open.
Also, use an ohm meter across each fuse to verify they are good. Sometimes they look good and are really bad.
This an excellent opportunity to learn how to use a VM. Unless you are careless and short the VM's probes across wires, etc, you can't do any harm. Once you learn how to do this type of circuit tracing, most electrical problems are easy to find. This also makes you more independant of others and especially the dealer. The only exception could possibly be intermittant E-problems. Even with VM they can be a pistol. Then, it may be time to include the dealer.
Even if a sled is on warranty, I find the problem first and then take it to the dealer. It saves trips and keeps them from pokin' around, while trying to find the problem. I was a novice to AC's EFI. After a few times of trouble-shooting, I could find my own bad components. This saves a lot of $s, especially when you own Cats, becasue their early EFI did not hold up well. Twice I traced all the way down to the Stator, where you use the ohm meter to make the final resistance checks.
Last, but not least, if you want a good warranty, you buy the sled with the HP & features you want and then leave it stock. I kept telling my brother-in-law this on each trip we took, as I towed him in. (It's kind of the price he had to pay for his previous mods & the tow! Eh?) He's been leaving them stock lately. Oh, ... If you need a tow rope, I have my ole tow rope posted F/S in the classifieds. He kinda wore it out, though.
pjwlk
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Burned out solenoid contacts
Thanks for the advice Len. The problem is actually with the solenoid itself. It seems that the contacts were getting welded together or stuck mechanically in some other manner, then burned off completely (after melting my starter of course) thereby rendering it useless. Even though you can hear a clicking, there is no electrical continuity throught the main solenoid contacts at all when in the start position. Everything else appears to be fine. I couldn't get the solenoid before I had to leave for the north so I installed a temporary #3AWG cable to the starter and shorted it to the sled's jumper cable (with the ignition on of course) when ever I needed to start the sled. The gas stations weren't too thrilled about it but it got me by.
When I get the new solenoid I'm going to cut the old open and inspect it. I'll post some pics for you if I find anything interesting. I'm also thinking about installing a battery disconnect device and a "starter running" warning indicator to prevent this from happening again. (Too expensive).
Thanks for the advice Len. The problem is actually with the solenoid itself. It seems that the contacts were getting welded together or stuck mechanically in some other manner, then burned off completely (after melting my starter of course) thereby rendering it useless. Even though you can hear a clicking, there is no electrical continuity throught the main solenoid contacts at all when in the start position. Everything else appears to be fine. I couldn't get the solenoid before I had to leave for the north so I installed a temporary #3AWG cable to the starter and shorted it to the sled's jumper cable (with the ignition on of course) when ever I needed to start the sled. The gas stations weren't too thrilled about it but it got me by.
When I get the new solenoid I'm going to cut the old open and inspect it. I'll post some pics for you if I find anything interesting. I'm also thinking about installing a battery disconnect device and a "starter running" warning indicator to prevent this from happening again. (Too expensive).
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Boy,... about three of these posts came in about the same time. The thread changed a bit with the smoked starter. I was talking about how to trace down an Open circuit. I guess timing is everything.
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