Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Hey everyone
This is my first post on the mountain forum.
I have signed on for a trip comming up this Feb. to Wyoming
I live in flatland country in Ontario and want to bring my 2009 XTX with me. I know it is not an MTX but with the 144" track length I think i should be able to get around OK (With some changes). This will be my first mountain experience and I'm sure I won't be doing any crazy highmarking hahaha.
Changes I am thinking about making:
1.75" lug backcountry track (I think I need smaller drivers for more lug)
MTX Weights and gearing
XTX C&A pro skis which are 7.25" wide.
Will these changes be sufficient to help me get around a bit better?
Maybe I am going about this the wrong way?
Any suggestions would be helpful (Aside from going and buying an MTX) hahah!
Thanks!
I hear we will be riding around 9,000 to 11,000 feet.
This is my first post on the mountain forum.
I have signed on for a trip comming up this Feb. to Wyoming
I live in flatland country in Ontario and want to bring my 2009 XTX with me. I know it is not an MTX but with the 144" track length I think i should be able to get around OK (With some changes). This will be my first mountain experience and I'm sure I won't be doing any crazy highmarking hahaha.
Changes I am thinking about making:
1.75" lug backcountry track (I think I need smaller drivers for more lug)
MTX Weights and gearing
XTX C&A pro skis which are 7.25" wide.
Will these changes be sufficient to help me get around a bit better?
Maybe I am going about this the wrong way?
Any suggestions would be helpful (Aside from going and buying an MTX) hahah!
Thanks!
I hear we will be riding around 9,000 to 11,000 feet.
Mtnviper
Vendor
Welcome to the mountain section!
You can run up to a 2" lug track with the stock drivers, and still have plenty of clearance. The tunnel/heat exchanger protector will have to come out though.
If you already have the 7.25" C+A skis they should work fine.
If not, a set of the Yamaha mountain ski bottoms is a good way to go, because you can re-use your old ski loops. Plus they a have the advantage of being adjustable on the ski stance. Just move all of the mounting spacers to the inside, to narrow the ski stance and it will make the sled easier to side hill.
For clutching gearing, I recommend going to 19/40 gearing. Your stock XTX weights should work fine, it's what I use and I'm pretty happy with them. When you change the rivits in the weight for 9,000- 11,000' instead of installing the heavy rivits in the tip like the chart says. Put the heavier weight in the heel with the light rivit or empty holes to the tip.
Same total weight as what the chart says, just load them so it has a heavy heel and light tip. This will give you a straighter shift, and better back shifting for the mountains.
Along with the rivit change, a 43-39 helix and with stock secondary spring, will even improve the clutching a little more!
The track, skis, gearing/clutching changes, will go a long way to make a XTX mountain worthy!
A couple of other extras to think about getting would be.
Mountain strap for the handle bars.
OFT steering post relocator, makes easier to change riding positions and carve in the powder.
Jacobson rollover valve kit (shameless plug
Seriously though it helps keep you from leaking/loosing oil out the oil tank breather when the sled is rolled on its side. Something that happens to me from time to time!
You can run up to a 2" lug track with the stock drivers, and still have plenty of clearance. The tunnel/heat exchanger protector will have to come out though.
If you already have the 7.25" C+A skis they should work fine.
If not, a set of the Yamaha mountain ski bottoms is a good way to go, because you can re-use your old ski loops. Plus they a have the advantage of being adjustable on the ski stance. Just move all of the mounting spacers to the inside, to narrow the ski stance and it will make the sled easier to side hill.
For clutching gearing, I recommend going to 19/40 gearing. Your stock XTX weights should work fine, it's what I use and I'm pretty happy with them. When you change the rivits in the weight for 9,000- 11,000' instead of installing the heavy rivits in the tip like the chart says. Put the heavier weight in the heel with the light rivit or empty holes to the tip.
Same total weight as what the chart says, just load them so it has a heavy heel and light tip. This will give you a straighter shift, and better back shifting for the mountains.
Along with the rivit change, a 43-39 helix and with stock secondary spring, will even improve the clutching a little more!
The track, skis, gearing/clutching changes, will go a long way to make a XTX mountain worthy!
A couple of other extras to think about getting would be.
Mountain strap for the handle bars.
OFT steering post relocator, makes easier to change riding positions and carve in the powder.
Jacobson rollover valve kit (shameless plug
Seriously though it helps keep you from leaking/loosing oil out the oil tank breather when the sled is rolled on its side. Something that happens to me from time to time!
APEX 06
TY 4 Stroke God
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Straight_up_XTX said:
You should be able to run that track with your drives but you will need to cut out your tunnel protectors. I would put in no slip drivers so you can your track loser. Then pull your straps two holes to help with the attack angle. And some good MTN skis.
mrtwostroke
Expert
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You don´t need the drivers i used 2" track and 19-40 gearing last season, but i didn´t like the setup with the straps tighten to litlle skilift, it´s better stock, for my anyway.
jteets3
Newbie
I agree with everything mrtwostroke is suggesting and I might even think about about a two wheel kit for the back axel get them both inside your rails. I moved both of mine in and lightened up my center shock and that was an unbelievable change in ridability. It allowed me to throw it around rather than my sled throwing me around
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Thanks for the tips guys!
Good call on the clutch weights... I totally forgot that they were adjustable with the rivits. I'll remember the rivit placement trick too. Is there anywhere that that I can view the clutching chart you are talking about on-line? I have never seen that before.
Good to know I can go up to a 2" lug... I just have to decide now between the 1.75" backcountry or a 2" challenger. I like the idea of the Backcountry because it would be more suitable to riding back here in Ontario where we do not always have real deep snow. Anyway I have some time still to think about that. There is a challenger on ebay right now for a sweet deal though... I may have to act on that!
I'll will pick up that 19/40 gearing as well for sure! I think I may have some gears from my v-max still too... I hear they will fit the nytro.
The rollover valave sounds like a good idea too! Sounds like somthing nytros should have came with. The Jacobson valve kit looks pretty well built and compact... I like that they have plug and play setups too! Good call Mtnviper... I didn't even know about the oil leaking out when upside down. Guess it only makes sence!
I have some used rear idler wheels left over from my V-max so maybe I will try and rig up a 2 wheel kit then. I'll hve to look into this.
Can I still use my hand guards with the steering re-locator? It gets cold as hell here running the lakes without them. If they won't work with my medium shield and the relocator I may hold off on that. That would likely be my final mod anyway... but I must admit I thought it would be much more expensive than it is!
Is it a real pain to remove the sabilizer? I hear this helps alot in the deep snow on sidehills.
Good to know with just a few changes my XTX will be capable on the hills.
Thanks for the help guys! Even though i know I just asked a bunch more questions anyway lol!
Good call on the clutch weights... I totally forgot that they were adjustable with the rivits. I'll remember the rivit placement trick too. Is there anywhere that that I can view the clutching chart you are talking about on-line? I have never seen that before.
Good to know I can go up to a 2" lug... I just have to decide now between the 1.75" backcountry or a 2" challenger. I like the idea of the Backcountry because it would be more suitable to riding back here in Ontario where we do not always have real deep snow. Anyway I have some time still to think about that. There is a challenger on ebay right now for a sweet deal though... I may have to act on that!
I'll will pick up that 19/40 gearing as well for sure! I think I may have some gears from my v-max still too... I hear they will fit the nytro.
The rollover valave sounds like a good idea too! Sounds like somthing nytros should have came with. The Jacobson valve kit looks pretty well built and compact... I like that they have plug and play setups too! Good call Mtnviper... I didn't even know about the oil leaking out when upside down. Guess it only makes sence!
I have some used rear idler wheels left over from my V-max so maybe I will try and rig up a 2 wheel kit then. I'll hve to look into this.
Can I still use my hand guards with the steering re-locator? It gets cold as hell here running the lakes without them. If they won't work with my medium shield and the relocator I may hold off on that. That would likely be my final mod anyway... but I must admit I thought it would be much more expensive than it is!
Is it a real pain to remove the sabilizer? I hear this helps alot in the deep snow on sidehills.
Good to know with just a few changes my XTX will be capable on the hills.
Thanks for the help guys! Even though i know I just asked a bunch more questions anyway lol!
jteets3
Newbie
That roll over valve is a must anywhere in my opinion. Yamaha should be paying Bill for that you dump your oil in the wrong place good luck finding some plus you'll end up dead heading a piston liquid doesn't compress.... yikes. Thanks again for that Bill
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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We too are flatlanders who head west with out machines. One of the guys in out group has a XTX and he has a 1.75 backcountry on it. It's a good size to be able to use here then still be able to goto the mountains with it.
We're adding the roll over kits to our machines this summer after an incident with the XTX last year.
Leave your handguards and medium windshield at home where they will be safe. he he.
I have a MMP conversion axel for a Yamaha (to run 2 wheels) I believe it will fit a Nytro I can check if you are interested.
We're adding the roll over kits to our machines this summer after an incident with the XTX last year.
Leave your handguards and medium windshield at home where they will be safe. he he.
I have a MMP conversion axel for a Yamaha (to run 2 wheels) I believe it will fit a Nytro I can check if you are interested.
Mtnviper
Vendor
Glad that you guys like your valves 
I had forgotten about removing the sway bar, it's one of the first things that I did to my sled.
It helps with side hilling and also the sled won't pitch you around as much when climbing rough hills.
It is pretty easy to pull out. Since you ride trails at home, you may just want to pull one of the sway bar links out. Then put it back on again when you get home. If you like the way that it handles, then go ahead and pull the bar out all the way.
I have a copy of the clutching chart for the XTX. I'll dig around and see if I can find it, then post the specs for 9000'-11,000'
I had forgotten about removing the sway bar, it's one of the first things that I did to my sled.
It helps with side hilling and also the sled won't pitch you around as much when climbing rough hills.
It is pretty easy to pull out. Since you ride trails at home, you may just want to pull one of the sway bar links out. Then put it back on again when you get home. If you like the way that it handles, then go ahead and pull the bar out all the way.
I have a copy of the clutching chart for the XTX. I'll dig around and see if I can find it, then post the specs for 9000'-11,000'
APEX 06 said:
I would not run a tight limiter strap, Attack angle IMO is not near as important as getting your ski's to lift and have some good handleing. Ski presure will make your sled feel a lot heaver and less ski pressure will make your sled much more sporty and fun to ride if your a agressive rider.
But its all a mater of riding style and preference, If your just looking to climb a tighter strap will work better probably but for handleing I have gone as far as changing my skid mounting to get my ski's up.
Also I dont agree with 2 wheel kits either, I dont buy into any advantages of them and I broke 2 last year so Im a fan of the more stout 4 wheel axles. I ride all powder btw.
Mtnviper
Vendor
The clutching chart for the XTX at 8'000-10,000'. Shows a 13.9 mm steel rivit in the outer hole, with the middle and inner hole empty. I would install the 13.9mm rivit in the inner hole and leave the outer two empty.
This will help prevent an over-rev on the bottom and under-rev on the top end. Something that I noticed on my XTX (due to the bigger track) when I had it set-up as per the chart.
The primary clutch will back shift better as well. Allowing the motor to stay in the power band easier, when your on/off the throttle during boondocking.
This will help prevent an over-rev on the bottom and under-rev on the top end. Something that I noticed on my XTX (due to the bigger track) when I had it set-up as per the chart.
The primary clutch will back shift better as well. Allowing the motor to stay in the power band easier, when your on/off the throttle during boondocking.
jteets3
Newbie
That MMP axel does fit an XTX had one on mine pretty sweet set up. Just have to keep under 8" on the wheels
Straight_up_XTX
Pro
Right on I'm going to print this thread and make a shopping list.
Good to hear the backcountry works Ok in hills... I agree in reality this is only a 1 week trip so having a track for deep snow that still works at home is probably a better way to go.
I am definately interested in removing the swaybar so I will try that for sure.
Thanks for the clutching specs again! I'll be stopping by the dealer here soon to get some rivits and gears.
Good call on leaving the medium windshield at home! I'll finally get some more use out of the stock low shield I guess! It's pretty much only on late in the season for march lake running here! haha I'll look into the two wheel kit. is it just the axel that you have? I'm sure I have spare rear wheels. I am interested just shoot me a message.
Once again the feed back on the rollover valves is good to hear! Thats going on the list for sure!
Anyway I have to hit the road later guys... thanks again!
Good to hear the backcountry works Ok in hills... I agree in reality this is only a 1 week trip so having a track for deep snow that still works at home is probably a better way to go.
I am definately interested in removing the swaybar so I will try that for sure.
Thanks for the clutching specs again! I'll be stopping by the dealer here soon to get some rivits and gears.
Good call on leaving the medium windshield at home! I'll finally get some more use out of the stock low shield I guess! It's pretty much only on late in the season for march lake running here! haha I'll look into the two wheel kit. is it just the axel that you have? I'm sure I have spare rear wheels. I am interested just shoot me a message.
Once again the feed back on the rollover valves is good to hear! Thats going on the list for sure!
Anyway I have to hit the road later guys... thanks again!
pokerplayer1
Newbie
You got some real good advice on this thread, I have added about every thing mentioned here, and a few more. A word of advice, get Mtnviper's roll over valve! Stripping the oil soaked foam rubber out of you side panel is a messy and tedious job.
grizzly
Extreme
I put a 2" challenger on mine and WB drivers well worth it, ask stopdropandroll about the back country, I think you will appreciate a 2" paddle and if you decide to buy one I have mine off my XTX. since last year I purchased a 2010 mtx 162.
