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How many have bought the Hurricane alignment tool ,and used it .?


ROCKERDAN said:
Yeah my testing showed much less snap down bottom, and the longer belt will never top end the same, all else being equal...and it has already been tested to be approx 3mph slower then the PROPER length belt.

That being said, a gear change will bring that back as Mike mentioned, but that same gear will also be 3mph faster on the proper length belt.

I would take the 8DN over the 8JP all day long, due to the dirty nature of the 8JP....but for me the Ultimax is clean and the proper length, and so far i'm liking it.

I do have 2 brand new 8DNs here though, so Im game to test those next. More backpressure as Mike said with the hard belt.

I know another bud who exclusively has run 8DNs and is setup well, and early spool tunes....never blows belts, even with a higher offset.

Dan
Click to expand...

I concur with Rockerdan as my testing has concluded that even with bigger gears, 8dn is still 3 mph slower than 8jp when using factory clutches. The only caveat being that results may vary using different/aftermarket clutches as I've never tested this.

8dn is great belt if you ride with your wife/kids and/or dont partake in any speed runs as differences in these conditions are negligible. However if you need your sled to run at absolutely 100%, 8jp is faster than 8dn.
 
Fleecer said:
I concur with Rockerdan as my testing has concluded that even with bigger gears, 8dn is still 3 mph slower than 8jp when using factory clutches. The only caveat being that results may vary using different/aftermarket clutches as I've never tested this.

8dn is great belt if you ride with your wife/kids and/or dont partake in any speed runs as differences in these conditions are negligible. However if you need your sled to run at absolutely 100%, 8jp is faster than 8dn.
Click to expand...


The problem here I bet is you don't make any changes for the 8DN. Same mistake everyone else has made testing belts. I've seen it time and time again. I think I'd wager that a 8DN would be almost tenth quicker and 1-2 MPH faster than the 8JP in 660foot after using them both now on a 290 tune when adjusting for it. One can't just change belts without making changes for it, and I'm not talking just changing the deflection, weight change up front and helix and/or spring change is also needed. You can really apply shift force to it down low and grip it much harder to take advantage of the harder 8DN. Hard belts are best for high HP as they distort less.
 
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KnappAttack said:
The problem here I bet is you don't make any changes for the 8DN. Same mistake everyone else has made testing belts. I've seen it time and time again. I think I'd wager that a 8DN would be almost tenth quicker and 1-2 MPH faster than the 8JP in 660foot after using them both now on a 290 tune when adjusting for it. One can't just change belts without making changes for it, and I'm not talking just changing the deflection, weight change up front and helix and/or spring change is also needed. You can really apply shift force to it down low and grip it much harder to take advantage of the harder 8DN. Hard belts are best for high HP as they distort less.
Click to expand...

I had to make the basic changes to get the 8dn to fit, added shims, and set deflection. Then I tried several different combinations weights/cam/springs to no avail, it was slower. Knowing how well the viper owners loved the 8dn conversion, I bolted set of viper clutches on winder and ran several combinations running that belt with those clutches...my results were the same.....slower. I probably did 1000 miles trying to get that 8dn to outperform the 8jp to no avail.

Ive had more than my share of high power toys over the last 40 years and I'm a decent wrench. I do not claim to be Einstein and fully understand that my results are subjective. I'm just a nobody that likes to go fast and wanted to share my opinion.

I dont doubt you have made the 8dn work in your favor, whether by bolting an aftermarket clutch and/or by changing a variety of armor. I'm not disclaiming your results, but rather intrigued because your results are contrary to mine.

I always look forward to reading all your posts as I feel you are truly as asset to this forum. Please don't hate me for disagreeing. I look forward to learning about the changes you've made and I'm willing to go back to the drawing board based on what you can teach us.

Ideally, what I'd like to see would be a post similar to what DMC put up in the past. A plowed strip .5 miles in length, a TD timer/GPS and a few tests of various belts 8jp/8dn/ultimax all turning same rpm without slip. Then compare ET and mph. Just my 5 cents.
 
Fleecer said:
I had to make the basic changes to get the 8dn to fit, added shims, and set deflection. Then I tried several different combinations weights/cam/springs to no avail, it was slower. Knowing how well the viper owners loved the 8dn conversion, I bolted set of viper clutches on winder and ran several combinations running that belt with those clutches...my results were the same.....slower. I probably did 1000 miles trying to get that 8dn to outperform the 8jp to no avail.

Ive had more than my share of high power toys over the last 40 years and I'm a decent wrench. I do not claim to be Einstein and fully understand that my results are subjective. I'm just a nobody that likes to go fast and wanted to share my opinion.

I dont doubt you have made the 8dn work in your favor, whether by bolting an aftermarket clutch and/or by changing a variety of armor. I'm not disclaiming your results, but rather intrigued because your results are contrary to mine.

I always look forward to reading all your posts as I feel you are truly as asset to this forum. Please don't hate me for disagreeing. I look forward to learning about the changes you've made and I'm willing to go back to the drawing board based on what you can teach us.

Ideally, what I'd like to see would be a post similar to what DMC put up in the past. A plowed strip .5 miles in length, a TD timer/GPS and a few tests of various belts 8jp/8dn/ultimax all turning same rpm without slip. Then compare ET and mph. Just my 5 cents.
Click to expand...
I have to agree. Due to the length and compound. So with just clutching changes not gearing please tell us how a 8DN is made to be faster mph than a 8JP. I am chomping at bit to go back to 8jp length belt after 4 years of running 8DN length belts. Maybe buying one to try was a mistake. Need ice to try myself but always felt wrong and easy way out abandoning the stock 8JP. Wore out my clutch running the cheaper 8DN. So cost is not a factor in my opinion.
 
cannondale27 said:
Wore out my clutch running the cheaper 8DN.
Click to expand...

This was the point that I was going to bring up. On my turbo viper, that ran the 8dn, it was wearing out the faces of the primary at an alarming rate. You could see grooves in the clutch where it liked to ride at the speeds I was running consistently. On my lower HP sleds running the same belt, this doesn't happen. My Nytro has over 10k miles on it and the clutches look great.
 
So I purchased the hurrican alignment tool and followed the directions to align my clutches. I had to move my secondary in it shows .080. It made the problem worse. My fixed sheave on my primary just from riding up the road was hot so was my secondary. then when I got off trail and started playing I could only go for a few minutes because my clutches were smoking hot. So when I got back to my truck I re adjusted back to where I was originally and took it for a spin up the road for 2 miles, clutches were cooler . Right now I am at 61mm offset I am waiting for some shims so I can adjust out further and see if this sloves my belt eating issue. Sled only has 250 miles and have ate 3 belts. I have checked everything and cannot find anything wrong
 
Jacob Hinrichs said:
So I purchased the hurrican alignment tool and followed the directions to align my clutches. I had to move my secondary in it shows .080. It made the problem worse. My fixed sheave on my primary just from riding up the road was hot so was my secondary. then when I got off trail and started playing I could only go for a few minutes because my clutches were smoking hot. So when I got back to my truck I re adjusted back to where I was originally and took it for a spin up the road for 2 miles, clutches were cooler . Right now I am at 61mm offset I am waiting for some shims so I can adjust out further and see if this sloves my belt eating issue. Sled only has 250 miles and have ate 3 belts. I have checked everything and cannot find anything wrong
Click to expand...


Are you tuned? It sounds as though you may be. I have found the Winder to need more side pressure in the secondary than we have been running with stock spring and/or the Black/Orange for actual trail use and snow running. I've now gone to heavier side pressure Cat driven springs with much greater success.

I highly doubt the alignment bar made anything worse. Going up on offset is really going the wrong way I believe. Are you geared higher and trying to run deep powder? We need to know your complete clutch combo to try and help you out.
 
Like I said , when I moved the secondary back out to where I had it originally the clutches were definitely cooler. My primary stationary sheave when moved in was literally smoking hot, and my secondary was extremely hot as well. I started pulling a string on the fixed sheave on the secondary side as well. I am waiting on some shims so I can shim the secondary out 1mm at a time to see.
 
Secondary spring set at 3/3, I even tried 1/6 with no change. Pulled cover on primary and checked spring weights rollers bushings, everything is like new.
 
If it’s a 17 , check your secondary rollers for flat spots . There is also a lot of grease from crossshaft & brake caliber bearing that spin onto clutch s . Clean surfaces with lacquer thinner. Check your air filter for oil dripping down on to clutch’s ( filter should have no oil on it ) 61 mm is even on the outside of Yamaha s specs 58.1-61.1 mm
 
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Mototown said:
If it’s a 17 , check your secondary rollers for flat spots . There is also a lot of grease from crossshaft & brake caliber bearing that spin onto clutch s . Clean surfaces with lacquer thinner. Check your air filter for oil dripping down on to clutch’s ( filter should have no oil on it ) 61 mm is even on the outside of Yamaha s specs 58.1-61.1 mm
Click to expand...


Its a 18, rollers are all good. Also no oil getting to the belt i routed the oil line so it cannot leak out of the intake, checked the grease there also none getting spread around
 
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