CaptCaper
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
Do I do just a continuity test? or is an Ohm test done?
Not sure if the new shield is working. Had sleet build up and couldn't wipe it off. Frozen. My wifes was soft and easy to wipe off with her electric shield. I am using a breath deflector now which routes it outside. She doesn't so I wonder if the inside helmet is not warm enough from my breath now. Plus the vents were open.
Maybe Rock can come up with a booster for my shield...
Not sure if the new shield is working. Had sleet build up and couldn't wipe it off. Frozen. My wifes was soft and easy to wipe off with her electric shield. I am using a breath deflector now which routes it outside. She doesn't so I wonder if the inside helmet is not warm enough from my breath now. Plus the vents were open.
Maybe Rock can come up with a booster for my shield...
srxpert
Expert
They are both basicly the same thing.If you have good continuity through both lines with little resistance the shield is good.Shane
Rockmeister
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Lol : )
Problem is, most plastic shields will melt if you give them much more power.
Would suggest a resistance check & maybe even take the connection apart on the shield carefully.
It can be loose & measure right, but not work well with vibration while is use.
Would replace the cord first though.
(Check the easy stuff first.)
Problem is, most plastic shields will melt if you give them much more power.
Would suggest a resistance check & maybe even take the connection apart on the shield carefully.
It can be loose & measure right, but not work well with vibration while is use.
Would replace the cord first though.
(Check the easy stuff first.)
speedjunky
Extreme
I agree with Rockmeister, check the cord and the power to the sheild. 1. Check the power to the sheild. 2. check the continuity in the sheild. If ALL is good looks like it would be the sheild.
Last year i blew a fues in mine.
Last year i blew a fues in mine.
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
i have 4 different helmets w/heated sheilds, none have worked, ever, 12 volts @ the plug in. still fog up.
CaptCaper
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The shield has continuity. I checked with an Ohm meter and it read .01. Wires all good. Power is good and direct to battery.
I've had good luck with the Electric Shields dealing with fog. My issue today was frozen sleet on the outer shield with no sign of softing the ice as my wifes helmet did.
Could the shield show continuity and still be broke?
If the shield is still good it might be that I used the breath deflector and opened the vents and with that heat loss the ice didn't soften like my wifes did.
I've had good luck with the Electric Shields dealing with fog. My issue today was frozen sleet on the outer shield with no sign of softing the ice as my wifes helmet did.
Could the shield show continuity and still be broke?
If the shield is still good it might be that I used the breath deflector and opened the vents and with that heat loss the ice didn't soften like my wifes did.
Rockmeister
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CaptCaper said:The shield has continuity. I checked with an Ohm meter and it read .01. Wires all good. Power is good and direct to battery.
I've had good luck with the Electric Shields dealing with fog. My issue today was frozen sleet on the outer shield with no sign of softing the ice as my wifes helmet did.
Could the shield show continuity and still be broke?
If the shield is still good it might be that I used the breath deflector and opened the vents and with that heat loss the ice didn't soften like my wifes did.
Would doubt the .01 reading, most are 6-24 ohms (12 ohms is very common).
Would check closely to make sure you have power to the shield, and as you mentioned, may simply not have enough warmth inside to soften the sleet.
Was it starting to fog at the time at all?
I too have had great luck with electric shields, have used them for almost 2 decades.
They work great, even in freezing rain.
CaptCaper
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I don't know how to test for Ohm. How does one test for ohm on this? I have a digital multimeter with a ohm picture for one dial and a top dial with 3,30,etc.
No fogging at all during this. But I was using a breath shield.
I'll double check all the wireing and power again. Take a real close look at the shield connections and seals tommorow.
No fogging at all during this. But I was using a breath shield.
I'll double check all the wireing and power again. Take a real close look at the shield connections and seals tommorow.
Rockmeister
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Usually you will set the mode to ohms & the range to the maximum reading you expect.
30 in this case should work well.
When you connect the two meter leads together in ohms mode, you should get a reading close to zero.
(Always check this, then measure. Makes sure the internal battery is good etc.)
If you had no fogging would expect that it was working.
When we were at the Houghton ride, it was freezing rain on the way back friday evening.
Those of us with electric shields just wiped it off.
Those without had major work.
We passed a BUNCH of guys with goggles that were trying to clean them.
30 in this case should work well.
When you connect the two meter leads together in ohms mode, you should get a reading close to zero.
(Always check this, then measure. Makes sure the internal battery is good etc.)
If you had no fogging would expect that it was working.
When we were at the Houghton ride, it was freezing rain on the way back friday evening.
Those of us with electric shields just wiped it off.
Those without had major work.
We passed a BUNCH of guys with goggles that were trying to clean them.
meatman
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checking ohms
i checked my sheild and the wifes and they are both in the same range 9.2 and 8.9 ohms, both new this year. hope this helps. is your power direct from the battery? sb approx 13v when chargeing
i checked my sheild and the wifes and they are both in the same range 9.2 and 8.9 ohms, both new this year. hope this helps. is your power direct from the battery? sb approx 13v when chargeing
CaptCaper
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I have to figure out how to check the ohms.. I come up with a .01 both on mine and a new one. The dealer's tech did it and came up with 10 ohms on each.
I pluged the shield inside my shop connected to the sled and I could feel the heat from the elements especially at the rivit like connection for the wires. So it must be working. I did notice that the black connector inside the sield that connects the two sets of wires gave a small snap and set in as I pushed.
I pluged the shield inside my shop connected to the sled and I could feel the heat from the elements especially at the rivit like connection for the wires. So it must be working. I did notice that the black connector inside the sield that connects the two sets of wires gave a small snap and set in as I pushed.
speedjunky
Extreme
I have never had any luck with my heated sheild melting freezing rain. But if you say you wife has the same sheild and did melt it I'm at a loss.
Rockmeister
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speedjunky said:I have never had any luck with my heated sheild melting freezing rain. But if you say you wife has the same sheild and did melt it I'm at a loss.
Hmmmmmm, didn't think too much about the terminology.
I agree, mine didn't so much MELT it as it did SOFTEN it.
Could scrape it off pretty easy with the wiper built into my glove.
One of the early electric shields I used, had lines across it like the rear window defogger in vehicles.
So when it was freezing rain, it had clear lines you looked through. lol
danq
Expert
CaptCaper said:I have to figure out how to check the ohms.. I come up with a .01 both on mine and a new one. The dealer's tech did it and came up with 10 ohms on each.
I pluged the shield inside my shop connected to the sled and I could feel the heat from the elements especially at the rivit like connection for the wires. So it must be working. I did notice that the black connector inside the sield that connects the two sets of wires gave a small snap and set in as I pushed.
To check OHMs, set the scale on your meter to ohms, pick the range you expect (use something less than 1K). Short (touch) the two leads of the meter together. Make sure they read 0.0 ohms and adjust (thumbwheel) for zero on your meter if needed. Now take one lead and touch to one side of the shield connector. Take the other lead and touch to the other side of the shield connector. Read the meter. It should show in the value of 10-24 ohms I'd guess.
For example if it reads 10 ohms, that shield would draw I(current)=V(volts)/R(ohms) = 12volts/10ohms = 1.2 amps.
If the ohm meter reads 24 ohms, the shield will draw 12/24 = 0.5 amps
If you see something like 0.01 ohms that shield would draw 12/.01 = 1200 amps! Not possible so you must have selected the wrong range on the meter. Selecting different ranges will move the decimal point of the reading. Or you've blow a bunch of fuses with this shield its shorted out!
if you read 0.01 on 1k range this is really .01x1000 = 10 ohms on a lower range scale
If you see an open (infinite resistance, no ohms measured) the shield is broken.
hope this helps.
CaptCaper
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Ok thanks I'll check out the meter tommorrow.
Also like Rock said it softens the ice. My wife has an full face helmet HJC CS10 which is a warm helmet because it doesn't have much venting. No breath deflector. So all the warm breath and air inside must make the difference. My son's HJC CS10 does the same.. My Helmet has lots of vents and can be a cold helmet unless I block and shut.
Also like Rock said it softens the ice. My wife has an full face helmet HJC CS10 which is a warm helmet because it doesn't have much venting. No breath deflector. So all the warm breath and air inside must make the difference. My son's HJC CS10 does the same.. My Helmet has lots of vents and can be a cold helmet unless I block and shut.
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