Hurricane

[DeBo]

They do this for a living. How would they not know how to check for leaks? I'm not saying your wrong but I specifically brought it to them because that's what I thought as well

 

[DeBo]

I did have the knock light go off as well. I added octane boost and it went away. I was running 93 octane. I tried a few different gas stations a well.

I'm not lying. It was extremely embarrassing and that's why I thought it was my track or leak at first. Hit 114 on the speedo and when it was stock 118. I don't have a ton of extra time to work on it so I brought it to a highly recommended company in Maine

 

[1nc 2000]

If your sled is not pulling the clutching they recommend there is definitely something wrong with your sled.

 

[DeBo]

I agree. Once I can run it on a lake then I'll know. Usually not until January are the lakes safe enough. I won't know until I can wot.

 

[blurred vision]

Somethings not right. Hmmmmmm

 

[SledFreak]

take it to a new dealer that tunes sleds..

 

[jonlafon1]

He took it to a dealer and had them check things out! Run it and see what happens.. Sounds like you had several issues with it BEFORE you took it in.. DeBo give the sled a chance after they worked on it.. Report back in after a few rides..

 

[STAIN]

take it to a new dealer that tunes sleds..

Woody's in Maine is supposed to be reputable dealer. They have built some fast sleds.
I would give their set up a try.

Also, what kind of race are we talking about? If you line up with an F7 and you have trail studs and he is set up with ice picks or chisels you will never get out on him.
are you going 500ft?1000ft? 5000ft? are these dedicated race sleds you are going against?
What was your peak RPM? Boost level? knock lamp? clutch temps?
There are too many unanswered questions here.
These tunes, especially the bigger ones are NOT plug and play if you want the most out of them.
You have to test, test, test OR pay someone to do it for you.
A day on the lake or and old airport strip with some parts and the right tools will go a long way.
Also take notes, write everything down and the results from each set up.

If you are like me, it never ends, you will always be trying to make it better.

 

[slightlystock]

I sent Dave @ Hurricane a data log and he found it right away. Boost leak between throttle bodies and the engine. Trimmed down the spacers on the clamps as per his recommendation. Problem solved. SS

 

[74Nitro]

Woody's in Maine is supposed to be reputable dealer. They have built some fast sleds.
I would give their set up a try.

Also, what kind of race are we talking about? If you line up with an F7 and you have trail studs and he is set up with ice picks or chisels you will never get out on him.
are you going 500ft?1000ft? 5000ft? are these dedicated race sleds you are going against?
What was your peak RPM? Boost level? knock lamp? clutch temps?
There are too many unanswered questions here.
These tunes, especially the bigger ones are NOT plug and play if you want the most out of them.
You have to test, test, test OR pay someone to do it for you.
A day on the lake or and old airport strip with some parts and the right tools will go a long way.
Also take notes, write everything down and the results from each set up.

If you are like me, it never ends, you will always be trying to make it better.

Oh I don't know about that. I have tuned several sleds with only ecotrail for those who just wanted a 'bit' more. I changed nothing else, as they didn't want to spend much. Plug and play - cheap. And they were overwhelmed with how much faster it was for $500.
Even a stock Winder will eat the sleds he got beaten by. I have to think something else is going on with this sled that is being overlooked.

 

[STAIN]

Oh I don't know about that. I have tuned several sleds with only ecotrail for those who just wanted a 'bit' more. I changed nothing else, as they didn't want to spend much. Plug and play - cheap. And they were overwhelmed with how much faster it was for $500.

I agree you will see a difference over stock for $500 tune . That doesn't mean there still aren't boost leaks and improvements to be had with better clutching.

Even a stock Winder will eat the sleds he got beaten by

Unless you are racing on ice with trail studs against a dedicated ice race sled. We need more info.
You roll out to the lake with your trail sled against some guys who have their sleds up for lake racing, 500ft, you will lose
trail sled vs. trail sled? ice sled vs. ice sled? different story.

 

[74Nitro]

I agree you will see a difference over stock for $500 tune . That doesn't mean there still aren't boost leaks and improvements to be had with better clutching.

Unless you are racing on ice with trail studs against a dedicated ice race sled. We need more info.
You roll out to the lake with your trail sled against some guys who have their sleds up for lake racing, 500ft, you will lose
trail sled vs. trail sled? ice sled vs. ice sled? different story.

It would help if he provided more details.

 

[2004yamahaviper]

It would help if he provided more details.

100% would need all your details, what your clutching set up is what belt your running. I know Dave usually sends out daty-1 for 270 but if your running an ultimax belt your gonna be way low rpm wise. Studs? Distance? Ice? Your rpm? Definitely need alot more information

 

[KnappAttack]

They do this for a living. How would they not know how to check for leaks? I'm not saying your wrong but I specifically brought it to them because that's what I thought as well

First off, There is no way a sidewinder will get outrun by either of those sleds that are beating you even if they are modified and have nitrous on them if they are true trail sleds, so we know there is a problem with the sled. Now on the other hand, if your racing a trail sled against a real "drag sled" then yes, they will murder you even if you are tuned up...

I've had many in here that leak and show huge improvements once sealed up. You can pressure test till your blue in the face and it will not always show the leaks. Typically when pressure testing is done when the machine is cold, and this should actually show the leaks better, but it won't show the leaks that are there once warmed up. Most do not test under high pressure either. You need to block/seal off the exhaust pipe at the turbo and clamp off the valve cover vent and pressure it up to over 30 lbs. to check for leaks properly. I always see the 6 clamps leaking behind the throttle bodies leaking and they usually leak bad. The spacer on those clamps need to be cut in half to ge them to seal up. That rubber gets soft when hot and leaks. It can't hold the pressure with the stock clamps no dealt with.

Try changing plugs too. Ive seen plugs actually go bad but not misfire. There is an issue somewhere that needs addressed.Did the dealer that put that cap on the wastegate valve and not the airbox with the bulletin to vent it? Lots of Dealers have been messing this up and getting it backwards so it won't boost properly or high enough. It's an easy fix for a guy that knows the sled and the way the systems work. Is is slipping the belt in the secondary? If there is not enough side pressure on the secondary they slip and waste away the power. You don't the old V1 Dalton Black Orange or too much helix as it will slip. Use the V2 spring wrapped up around 90 for a sled with tunes. It needs side pressure if you have traction. After much testing I found you need the Heavy Cat spring or lots of wrap in the V2 spring. These sleds make lots of power and if all is not perfect, they can and will waste it away thru leaks and clutching and be inconsistent. I've seen tuned sleds that are slower than stockers instantly because of the leaks and improper clutching.

They are not for everybody, you must have a good tuner on speed dial or have the knowledge on how to make it work or it will not be fast. I always say these sleds are for the experienced tuner. Mine gave me fits more often then not until I got it all ironed out and evolved to the point it is now. There were times I hated it and wanted to run it over with a Dozer! Seriously! It was only engineered for 200 HP and were pushing them well beyond that. The issue for me is all the electronics and hoses and clamps on the machine that leak or could leak. Its insane! Nothing like pushing boost to a simple Apex or 1200 Doo with mechanical boost control. We have electronic control of boost thru the ECU which I don't care for, but it is what it is. Who wants to ride an Apex or 1200 Doo anymore after riding the Winder? LOL!

 

[yamahahaapex]

Somethings not right. Hmmmmmm

Had the same issue. I went with a combo tune from Hurricane. After deliberation, kept my aftermarket pipe in favour of saving a few bucks on the entire kit and shelling out another $600.00. After 50+ hours boost leak tests, shaving clamps, new clamps. Everything. Turns out the pipe was the issue. I was consistently losing 3-4lbs of boost on either the 240-270-300 map. I ran this original pipe stock and I have to wonder how much it made it worse for me.

Start by getting yourself a new pipe with the kit you ordered and you will most likely save yourself hours of headaches. Took me all winter to find out the hard way.