Hurricane

[JPS]

First off, There is no way a sidewinder will get outrun by either of those sleds that are beating you even if they are modified and have nitrous on them if they are true trail sleds, so we know there is a problem with the sled. Now on the other hand, if your racing a trail sled against a real "drag sled" then yes, they will murder you even if you are tuned up...

I've had many in here that leak and show huge improvements once sealed up. You can pressure test till your blue in the face and it will not always show the leaks. Typically when pressure testing is done when the machine is cold, and this should actually show the leaks better, but it won't show the leaks that are there once warmed up. Most do not test under high pressure either. You need to block/seal off the exhaust pipe at the turbo and clamp off the valve cover vent and pressure it up to over 30 lbs. to check for leaks properly. I always see the 6 clamps leaking behind the throttle bodies leaking and they usually leak bad. The spacer on those clamps need to be cut in half to ge them to seal up. That rubber gets soft when hot and leaks. It can't hold the pressure with the stock clamps no dealt with.

Try changing plugs too. Ive seen plugs actually go bad but not misfire. There is an issue somewhere that needs addressed.Did the dealer that put that cap on the wastegate valve and not the airbox with the bulletin to vent it? Lots of Dealers have been messing this up and getting it backwards so it won't boost properly or high enough. It's an easy fix for a guy that knows the sled and the way the systems work. Is is slipping the belt in the secondary? If there is not enough side pressure on the secondary they slip and waste away the power. You don't the old V1 Dalton Black Orange or too much helix as it will slip. Use the V2 spring wrapped up around 90 for a sled with tunes. It needs side pressure if you have traction. After much testing I found you need the Heavy Cat spring or lots of wrap in the V2 spring. These sleds make lots of power and if all is not perfect, they can and will waste it away thru leaks and clutching and be inconsistent. I've seen tuned sleds that are slower than stockers instantly because of the leaks and improper clutching.

They are not for everybody, you must have a good tuner on speed dial or have the knowledge on how to make it work or it will not be fast. I always say these sleds are for the experienced tuner. Mine gave me fits more often then not until I got it all ironed out and evolved to the point it is now. There were times I hated it and wanted to run it over with a Dozer! Seriously! It was only engineered for 200 HP and were pushing them well beyond that. The issue for me is all the electronics and hoses and clamps on the machine that leak or could leak. Its insane! Nothing like pushing boost to a simple Apex or 1200 Doo with mechanical boost control. We have electronic control of boost thru the ECU which I don't care for, but it is what it is. Who wants to ride an Apex or 1200 Doo anymore after riding the Winder? LOL!

Mike what areas do you see as must fix for boost leaks and how do you address them? Coming from someone that has been down the leak road many times what do you recommend be fixed to stop possible leaks and prevent them from happening?

 

[stevewithOCD]

WOODY's is a VERY reputable dealer that has tuned MANY sleds in Maine.
Try it this year & see what happens.
Then you'll know where to go from there.
They may have made it worse or maybe just "going thru" it, they found something

 

[Torquezilla]

sounds like ecu has no flash in it to me

 

[DeBo]

You changed the exhaust and it fixed? Crazy

As for Knapp you think I get to the valve clamps and just get them down regardless?

 

[KnappAttack]

You changed the exhaust and it fixed? Crazy

As for Knapp you think I get to the valve clamps and just get them down regardless?

I'm not sure what valve clamps are. If your referring to the head and throttle body clamps (6 clamps with barrel spacers on them) absolutely, the spacers must be cut or ground down in half to .125" thickness. All your boost leaks must be dealt with and fixed. While you are at it change the plugs too.

I hope you are running the proper SM tune and not the PM tune. There are so many things that need answered here, but you need to start somewhere.

 

[SPM]

What's best for charge tube and plenum clamps? Stay with factory wormgear clamp or go with something different?
I'm going to have it apart to update TB clamp spacers so it would be a good time to do any other updates. Thanks

 

[Turboflash]

These are a nice upgrade from stock ones. (https://shop.tommcatperformance.com/products/constant-tension-998-intercooler-hose-clamp-kit).
Also, (https://www.mcmaster.com/constant-t...t-tension-bolt-clamps-for-firm-hose-and-tube/).

 

[1nc 2000]

I use the Murray clamps like what tomcat sells.
I would use them again.
I bought they summit racing but tomcat kits look cheaper priced.

 

[74Nitro]

Has anyone ever tried the Gates heat shrink clamps. Just asking as I have never tried them on anything yet.

 

[Motorhead]

This dealer “cut” the clutches. You mean like machined them? If they did that I would give that set up a chance. Not to many dealers machine clutches. But the ones that do usually are into set ups and performance. Just my opinion.

Maybe I can clarify the Woodys clutch set ups! I’ve had it done to my clutches since my first TD tune (EcoTrail), and my riding buddy had his done last season after buying a new Sidewinder primary through Woodys!
They have a machinist take .0?0” off each primary sheave. It allows for an extra 1/8” belt height on full shift. Have checked both mine and buddies, and instead of the stock 1/4” from top of sheave belt height, they are both 1/8” from top belt height. So with Magic Marker trick on primary, there would be 1/8” from top! I took the spring out of both primaries on the bench and added the belt to see where full shift height was at after having that work done! 1/8” of untouched clutch by belt.

Secondary clutch gets its coil pocket cut .070” deeper to prevent coil bind with stock spring.

Stock weights get washers added to tip for milder tunes and both top and mid weights for hotter tunes! All I can say is what me and my buddy got from Woody for our set up, I’m sure he has others whereas they do their own testing for their set ups!
Our set ups were designed utilizing both primary and secondary stock springs with the added weight to the stock weights!

I imagine Woody also cuts more on his racing primary set ups!

They’ve always been a dealer that enjoys modding sleds and during the RX1 and Apex Bender/FPP turbo days, they broke many records and won many races!

 

[jonlafon1]

Maybe I can clarify the Woodys clutch set ups! I’ve had it done to my clutches since my first TD tune (EcoTrail), and my riding buddy had his done last season after buying a new Sidewinder primary through Woodys!
They have a machinist take .0?0” off each primary sheave. It allows for an extra 1/8” belt height on full shift. Have checked both mine and buddies, and instead of the stock 1/4” from top of sheave belt height, they are both 1/8” from top belt height. So with Magic Marker trick on primary, there would be 1/8” from top! I took the spring out of both primaries on the bench and added the belt to see where full shift height was at after having that work done! 1/8” of untouched clutch by belt.

Secondary clutch gets its coil pocket cut .070” deeper to prevent coil bind with stock spring.

Stock weights get washers added to tip for milder tunes and both top and mid weights for hotter tunes! All I can say is what me and my buddy got from Woody for our set up, I’m sure he has others whereas they do their own testing for their set ups!
Our set ups were designed utilizing both primary and secondary stock springs with the added weight to the stock weights!

I imagine Woody also cuts more on his racing primary set ups!

They’ve always been a dealer that enjoys modding sleds and during the RX1 and Apex Bender/FPP turbo days, they broke many records and won many races!

Not many dealers do this kind of stuff for customers. These little tweaks on clutches can be huge for top end and efficiency. Sounds like a great dealer. That’s kinda why I was saying for the original poster to try the sled after these guys did their thing.

Thanks for info.