NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
fiddlersgreen
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2009
- Messages
- 538
- Location
- Newfoundland...The Rock
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Viper xtx le
Yup.cannondale27 said:
That may be my biggest problem. My stock 08 MTX dosen't have the top of the line floats buy no means. I just find the sled don't even return to the limit when I am off the sled. Not even close. I hope the spacers will help with this. As for a little extra preload, at least with the Xclicks it's there if I need it. Don't think I will.
rough rider
Expert
x click
Has anyone used the x-click on the xtx, was there any improvment over the stock adj.??
Has anyone used the x-click on the xtx, was there any improvment over the stock adj.??
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
The X-Clicks are made with a 4th side that adds quite a bit more (I thought they said 20%?) more preload than what's available using the stockers.
You can get them from SLP and ShadeTree as well as Hiperf. Everyone's within a buck or 2. ShadeTree always does the big discount thing at the Novi show.....
Me and my 280lb butt have been using them for the last 3 seasons on various sleds and never sacked a set of springs out yet. What I've found is after riding with all the extra preload available, you often find you don't need it as much as you thought you did? Maybe due to other changes you make afterward. Cheaper to find out this way than buying another set of springs, and as said - it's there when you need it, just a quick adjustment away - when and IF you do need them. I think they're great for that reason.
Alatalo - Your thought regarding the extra preload causing a coil bind on the shims is a good one. Hadn't considered that regarding having both installed. I agree on the sit in point as well, but would add, IMHO, that if the X-Clicks will let you achieve the desired sit in, you'll be ahead in the ride game as compared to running heavier springs. I would encourage heavier damping, as you mention - or more/earlier coupling to control bottoming once proper (1g) sit in has been set up.
Something not mentioned often as well, is the fact preload on the front skid spring has a very definite affect on the height the rear runs at as well. Guys dinking with the extra preload to get rid of the dreaded static "droop" might want to try increasing preload there first, before going to the time and trouble of anything else?
You can get them from SLP and ShadeTree as well as Hiperf. Everyone's within a buck or 2. ShadeTree always does the big discount thing at the Novi show.....
Me and my 280lb butt have been using them for the last 3 seasons on various sleds and never sacked a set of springs out yet. What I've found is after riding with all the extra preload available, you often find you don't need it as much as you thought you did? Maybe due to other changes you make afterward. Cheaper to find out this way than buying another set of springs, and as said - it's there when you need it, just a quick adjustment away - when and IF you do need them. I think they're great for that reason.
Alatalo - Your thought regarding the extra preload causing a coil bind on the shims is a good one. Hadn't considered that regarding having both installed. I agree on the sit in point as well, but would add, IMHO, that if the X-Clicks will let you achieve the desired sit in, you'll be ahead in the ride game as compared to running heavier springs. I would encourage heavier damping, as you mention - or more/earlier coupling to control bottoming once proper (1g) sit in has been set up.
Something not mentioned often as well, is the fact preload on the front skid spring has a very definite affect on the height the rear runs at as well. Guys dinking with the extra preload to get rid of the dreaded static "droop" might want to try increasing preload there first, before going to the time and trouble of anything else?
fiddlersgreen said:
So pick the sled up and see if the suspension falls.I bet it will.That is real life at least at speed.So even though it doesnt fall all the way out when sitting there I am betting that it does when going over a hole or in the air.If so then shocks will have the travel they need to do thier job if they are capable of doing thier job that is.Ideally you want just a little travel left when just sitting on it so at slow speeds and small bumps the suspension will still be able to absorb.There is a fine line to the amount of sag possible since the transfer also comes into play.But on a Nytro that is adjustable.
berge75
Expert
I think if the spacer was made from rubber,you would'nt have to worry about coil binding the spring as the rubber would give enough (squish), but would still take up the slack.
billy2guns
Veteran
I bought a set of the High Gear torsion spring spacers for my 2010 XTX and they didn't fit! The axle the torsion springs ride on is tapered. I am not sure if this is a new thing this year or not. I cut an inch off my spacers and they fit ok, covering 80% of the spring. It is my first Yamaha so this is all mew to me. I hope it works.
bagadonitz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Can I ask what you folks mean by "binding".
The reason I ask is I have a set of these Hygear Torsion Spaces installed. I took out my skid this week to stretch it and first thing I notice is on one side the hook that rotates up over the bottom of the torsion spring behind the wheel on the rail is destroyed as is the stock "adjuster block". There was no damage done to the track or anything else on that side and I don't remember any huge hits that would have cause this. I am a bigger guy so I'm wondering if what I'm seeing might be a symptom of this binding?
I'm going to get x-click to replace the adjusters but I'm wondering if I should go back to the stock spacers while I'm in there?
The reason I ask is I have a set of these Hygear Torsion Spaces installed. I took out my skid this week to stretch it and first thing I notice is on one side the hook that rotates up over the bottom of the torsion spring behind the wheel on the rail is destroyed as is the stock "adjuster block". There was no damage done to the track or anything else on that side and I don't remember any huge hits that would have cause this. I am a bigger guy so I'm wondering if what I'm seeing might be a symptom of this binding?
I'm going to get x-click to replace the adjusters but I'm wondering if I should go back to the stock spacers while I'm in there?
Attachments
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
bagadonitz said:
If I'm understanding you right, the binding would be due to the fact that the ID of the spring shrinks as the spring compresses. If the OD of the spacer is too big to allow that to happen, I would think something like what you have going on in the pictures might happen? Some wear is fine, but it looks like you have something going on there....
If you have it apart and are going with the X-Clicks, I would leave the spacers out and put the OEM sleeves back in, but that's just me. FWIW
bagadonitz
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I can see that the ID might decrease and thus it might bite on the spaces but the the rotation of the entire thing shouldn't be affected as the spacers should still turn on the shaft that they are installed on allowing the same movement as the skid compresses?
4strknytro
Extreme
It would be nice if Hygear gave an opinion on this. You would hope some sort of mathematics was involved in this design? I just ordered a set -I am now concerned.
Daranello
Suspended
I decided against then,cause for the XTX they wanted $69. Thought it was a tad expensive for plastic
Daranello said:
me too...especially since the only guarantee is correction of static ride height..
you could get the main shock recharged and progessively valved for less than that..
they might be good...and advertisers on here...but to me their prices seem lofty
rough rider
Expert
spacers
I just made some out of pvc pipe alittle bigger than stock diameter, 5 dollars for parts and my time
I just made some out of pvc pipe alittle bigger than stock diameter, 5 dollars for parts and my time
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
bagadonitz said:
I don't get the binding idea either.
When your skid compresses, the lower long spring arm slides further or deeper through the hook at the wheel.
You would need to have the chassis over extend itslelf while flying through the air for the arm to pull out thus or pop off the top plastic adjuster.
Your photos show some strange wear going on there along the top of the lower hook. Was the spring arm sitting on top of the hook when you pulled your skid?
