I SAVED 16+ POUNDS OFF THE FRONT END OF MY RX-1!!!

YamaDawg

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My buddy just bought this front end kit from a company called CB Performance Parts, IT ROCKS! The runners that they make and use are amazing I feel like I'm on rails when I'm rippin' through the trails. At slow speeds they "track" a little because they arn't duallys, but for a single line runner they are the best. That isn't even mentioning the weight savings and great looks of this front end. I get looks all the time from people at bars, the polished aluminum LOOKS AWESOME. If you wanna check them out look at http://www.cbperformanceparts.com.
 
A few things to make note of...

1) for that kind of green, you can get yourself a beat-up viper - that should satisfy your need for light weight.

2) aluminum skis? BAD idea. I've welded MANY *steel* skis, and everyone knows that steel is a LOT stronger than aluminum. Soon as you hit a bump that goes the wrong way, those aluminum skis will SNAP, the front end will dig in, and the machine will flip over forward. Plastic skis may be a bit softer, but they will stand up to a LOT more abuse simply due to the fact that they ARE FLEXIBLE.

3) changing the material that the components are made of will not do ANYTHING to the balance. In fact, less weight close to the ground means proportionally more weight up high, which will RAISE the center of gravity causing instability.

4) Add any polished aluminum, and it ALL has to be polished, otherwise what is not polished will look out of place.
 
1)For that kind of green you could get 1/3 third of the wait loss with chrome moly! Don't belive me go compare the prices with any other aftermarket company and try to get near the same weight loss. It can't be done. That is a whole kit not just seperate parts. Go add up the price of the Mountain Performance parts and tell me which is better.

2) Another thing is that 6061-T6 Aluminum is much stronger than steel, and anybody that knows their metals or does as much welding as LazyBastard should know that. The whole ski is reinforced on top so it won't "fold" at all or bend the other way. I've seen him jump some big hills on the trails and he has never had a problem.

3) You are right about the weight down low, But wrong about it not helping weight transfer because it does and of course any weight loss helps all around. Especially on a RX-1.

4) This point is strictly opinion but polished aluminum looks fine by itself or with other parts. Matt always gets compliments in minoqua and northern wisconsin.
 
I like the idea but I wish they sold just the A-arms, spindles, and tie rods in a 38" size.

You claim 1/3 the weight for the same price for chrome moly so here goes my adding. MPI chrome moly A-arms almost 7lbs @ $399.95 (I'll say 6lbs), MPI billet alluminum spindles 2.2lbs @ $279.00, Billet steering arms 1lb/pr @ $89.95, Alluminum radius rod & tie rod kit 2.8lbs @ $239.00. Last I checked this equals 12lbs @ $917.90. This looks like it would comparable in my book; almost 13lbs (like I said 12lbs to be conservativ) is 3/4 the weight savings. Cost is less than 3/4 by about $57. If you want to figure just the chrome moly A-arms it is almost half the weight savings @ less than 1/4 the price

I can find other weight savings for the front that will equal more than aproximately 4lbs for an additional $400. Battery 10lbs @229.00, hood 16lbs @ $385.
 


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