Joe ltx-le
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Ooo man. Is the oil level up?Funny side note I did pull my last AEM AFR gauge apart prior to the season start and cleaned pin on the terminals and now it works....bad side note it may be too late I believe I my have blown up my 2nd viper I am losing anti-freeze and no visible signs of where it is going other than into the motor.
Yes it only had 530 miles on the build from Ulmer when it first happened last ride last yr. I just did the 500 mile oil change a week ago and went to the UP last weekend and had all kinds of issues. Oil is 1/2 up the sight glass and still as clear as the day I put it in the sled.
tapex_07
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'14 Viper XTX SE MPI 159x14x1.25
'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
Offta thats a terrible feeling.. So its consuming coolant with no exterior signs? Have you had a chance to pull anything apart yet?Yes it only had 530 miles on the build from Ulmer when it first happened last ride last yr. I just did the 500 mile oil change a week ago and went to the UP last weekend and had all kinds of issues. Oil is 1/2 up the sight glass and still as clear as the day I put it in the sled.
Yes I have been dicking with this since it ruined the trip to the UP this past weekend. The only other option is a bad radiator cap. I am seeing a bit of steam around the cap when it is running hot with the hood off, and it is NOT drawing fluid out of the overflow tank. I am going to get another one today and try it. I just cannot believe I could have blown another motor
It still runs like a raped ape and I have not even had a chance to run it on high boost yet. Friday night after all went wrong I filled the fluid up and drained the tank and put 5 gals of 110 octane it for a maiden burst at 265 hp. Went to bed and Saturday no start
tried for 3 hrs with jump pack and could not get it to fire. Came home 2 days early. Would not start Sunday or Monday. Tuesday it fired like it never missed a beat.


tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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'07 Apex RTX SC2 MPI 128x1
How low was the coolant?
When you say, "no fire" like a no spark kind of issue? Or a sputtering misfire no start?
After you went for the burst run, did you cover it overnight? Like a moisture/freezing issue. And it didn't thaw until Tuesday.. Just thinking out loud.
When you say, "no fire" like a no spark kind of issue? Or a sputtering misfire no start?
After you went for the burst run, did you cover it overnight? Like a moisture/freezing issue. And it didn't thaw until Tuesday.. Just thinking out loud.
not even a pop out of it! but tuesday fire right up. My sled stays in the enclosed 26' hauler every night. I just could not warm the interior up because I filled the 100 lb bottle with gas in October and it must have leaked out because I got about 1 hr of heat then it went out.
I had the coolant issue, no start issue, no gas in the bottle issue and 2 flat tires on the brand new hauler cause all 4 wheels are leaking at the valve stems. hows that for 2 days?
I had the coolant issue, no start issue, no gas in the bottle issue and 2 flat tires on the brand new hauler cause all 4 wheels are leaking at the valve stems. hows that for 2 days?
Little update...After much screwing around when I ran it Tuesday with the hood off. I noticed steam coming out around the cap. Every time it over heated the system never would draw out of the overflow to back fill. I spoke to Allen Ulmer and he says he has seen a few bad ones and that if it was a head gasket it would blow the fluid and the top hose off the overflow from the pressure. Next great thing is not 1 Yamaha or Arctic cat dealer in MN has a cap. so I went to advanced auto and the $24.00 cap that would take 1 week to get was in stock for $7.99 going back to shop tonight to test ride!
jpothof
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I wonder if I weld that Bung that came with the gauges on top of the MPI bung, if that would take it out of the stream enough? Ya think?
I was going through O2 sensors with my Innovate gauges. Innovate makes a bung extender specifically to decrease heat and turbulence. It just screws in. Not the cheapest thing but less hassle if you don't weld yourself. Mines been flawless since adding it.

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jpothof
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I was going through O2 sensors with my Innovate gauges. Innovate makes a bung extender specifically to decrease heat and turbulence. It just screws in. Not the cheapest thing but less hassle if you don't weld yourself. Mines been flawless since adding it.
![]()
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Little closer pic

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Poechman
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That looks great! Would you by chance to get a measurement off the pipe for me? I bought an aftermarket muffler this year and it has a long bung for a/f, but I am not sure if it is long enough to keep the sensor from getting damaged. Thanks!Little closer pic![]()
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jpothof
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That looks great! Would you by chance to get a measurement off the pipe for me? I bought an aftermarket muffler this year and it has a long bung for a/f, but I am not sure if it is long enough to keep the sensor from getting damaged. Thanks!
The bung extender Is 1.2" long from my factory bung including the crush washer. What I don't know is if a longer bung alone will prevent failure of the sensor or if the extender that Innovate makes and how it completely protects the sensor from turbulence (google it, the end is not wide open but creates a venturi) is what extends life of the O2 sensor.
If I was welding a new bung on I'd probably put it on the intake pipe. I had the MPI bung drilled out so when I started losing O2 sensors I looked for a solution that let me use the same bung.
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Poechman
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Ya I have been reading that there is less turbulence before the turbo.. extending the life of the sensor. Having the bung drilled on my muffler now seems to be the easiest route! May look into welding bung on next year if this doesn't work! Thanks for the info tho!The bung extender Is 1.2" long from my factory bung including the crush washer. What I don't know is if a longer bung alone will prevent failure of the sensor or if the extender that Innovate makes and how it completely protects the sensor from turbulence (google it, the end is not wide open but creates a venturi) is what extends life of the O2 sensor.
If I was welding a new bung on I'd probably put it on the intake pipe. I had the MPI bung drilled out so when I started losing O2 sensors I looked for a solution that let me use the same bung.
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Dinner
Lifetime Member
Little update...After much screwing around when I ran it Tuesday with the hood off. I noticed steam coming out around the cap. Every time it over heated the system never would draw out of the overflow to back fill. I spoke to Allen Ulmer and he says he has seen a few bad ones and that if it was a head gasket it would blow the fluid and the top hose off the overflow from the pressure. Next great thing is not 1 Yamaha or Arctic cat dealer in MN has a cap. so I went to advanced auto and the $24.00 cap that would take 1 week to get was in stock for $7.99 going back to shop tonight to test ride!
Are you seeing the loss of coolant in the rad, or is your overflow bottle emptying? When I first had my turbo installed and ripped around for the year I noticed my level dropping slowly...until it stopped about 1" below the fill line in the overflow bottle. I've never been concerned since it hasn't changed from that spot for the past 2 years. I'm just throwing out an idea that's all.
ApexGTman
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Just ordered one....Not Cheap though.....Hope it works.I was going through O2 sensors with my Innovate gauges. Innovate makes a bung extender specifically to decrease heat and turbulence. It just screws in. Not the cheapest thing but less hassle if you don't weld yourself. Mines been flawless since adding it.
![]()
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tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Here's the short extension on Amazon. $5.95 free shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CK6ON7I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7LOT98G72N69
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CK6ON7I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7LOT98G72N69
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