Installation of Rocztoyz Starter Saver

[provfisherman]

there are remote actuated battery disconnect units available that might be useful in this situation and would possibly allow installation in the space next to the battery but allow the actuator lever (on/off) to be in the space under the right side cover (oil tank area).

I have never use this particular type, but have used other similar types. Granted, not on snowmachines, but the idea is the same.

 

[YukonMP]

So a starter solenoid is an electromagnetic device. It gets a low current signal from the key switch. This in turn causes full battery amperage to go to the starter motor. This would power the starter motor and pull or engage the starter drive. You would not want that much current to flow through the key switch. So is there some thing different in the Yamaha 4 stroke sled circuits? If the solenoid sticks. And the light stays on. After all the work to get to the starter should the whole unit be replaced? Also the one way clutch? And is this light just to prevent further damage. Or it is it also a way to get back to home or to the trailer? I assume pulling the cables stops the starter. But maybe not the engine since the alternator might keep the engine running. Unless of course the fuel pump relay kills. Or the ignition. Might be wishful thinking.But if the starter drive is engaged with the flywheel that might not work either. Just wondering I guess stopping the sled would be better than causing further damage. Interested but very curious as to the whole scenario. Obviously you would not want to drive down the trail with the starter engaged. So this product sounds like a great idea!

Those are a lot of good questions. No doubt Rocztoyz can/will answer them when he becomes aware of this thread. In all honesty I have considered his product but never got there because I had many of these questions myself.

 

[Snorunner]

there are remote actuated battery disconnect units available that might be useful in this situation and would possibly allow installation in the space next to the battery but allow the actuator lever (on/off) to be in the space under the right side cover (oil tank area).

I have never use this particular type, but have used other similar types. Granted, not on snowmachines, but the idea is the same.

 

[Snorunner]

Great great suggestions. I have seen drag racers. With a quick battery disconnect switch like this on the tailight panel per NHRA rules. So somebody could turn off battery power in an emergency.

 

[cannondale27]

I remember a lot of stuck solenoids was actually the flip key on Apex hanging up on something. Also saw one where guy wired a heated shield plug wrong causing it. Both these the light would show with plenty of time for correction. Nytro,Phazer and many other sled the solenoid can be accessed easily. For others maybe just moving the solenoid to a accessible location would help if really concerned. Also it's common practice at any good dealership to always replace solenoid when new starter is installed. With higher miles it really wouldn't be bad idea to at least replace solenoid since it's cheap and easy change. Did mine last season at 11000mi.

 

[maim]

So turn the key to the off position and the kill switch down will not shut down the starter if it sticks ??

key off or kill switch will kill the fuel pump, not the starter when it sticks on. the air box clamps hold good enough to seal to the carbs/throttle bodies to the boots but can be pulled off in a hurry when needed to get to the solenoid/battery. my brother did it on his apex to get at the battery to boost his sled and was not in the mood to take off the pod to get at the clamps at the time as i was picking up the sled for its pre season and had to take that all apart anyways for the filter.

 

[Rockmeister]

It takes a while to fully cook/destroy the starter/wiring/etc. Usually 20+ minutes. (Most sleds with s stuck starter die within 15-20 miles)
A few minutes of running is unlikely to seriously damage the starter.
However to prevent permanent/expensive damage you must KNOW something is wrong AND act on that info!
Knowledge & Time are important! A few minutes ok, 15 minutes NOT OK!

Meaning: If you know & act on the issue right away, it is not likely to hurt your starter, one way clutch, stator, wiring, etc.
The stator does not have enough power to run the starter and your sled, so if you disconnect the battery with the starter engaged, your sled will shut itself off..

The Starter Saver is intended to let you know if have a problem so you can act on it, & save you many $$$
The idea is to provide an easy to install, low cost device that will help you if needed.
Not all sleds will have an issue at all, many never will.
(So adding a disconnect is not really necessary for most, as most will never have an issue, and you still must know you have an issue for it to do any possible good)
The Starter Saver gives you peace of mind and saves you lots of grief if you DO have an issue.

On my Apex, I pulled the throttle body clamps & threw them in my toolbox.
The boot clamps are a PAIN to install, and are somewhat pointless, as the boots fit tight to the throttle bodies. (Mine do anyway)
(Or you can very lightly snug the clamps as maim mentioned, removing them just makes it easier to re-install the airbox also)

Once you eliminate the boot clamps, it is insanely easy & quick to access everything under the airbox.
1) Release the rubber hold-down on front of airbox.
2) Unplug air sensor.
3) Pull drain hose.
4) Lift airbox out.
You don't even need any tools! Super fast & easy!

Your airbox won't go anywhere. Will work just as before.
Try it, you will wonder why you ever messed with the clamps prior!

Hope this helps

 

[Sasquatch]

I can`t remove the airbox on my 11 without removing the headlight pod. Course I never tried to just rip it out.

 

[yamadoo]

I can`t remove the airbox on my 11 without removing the headlight pod. Course I never tried to just rip it out.

You could do it Charley, just go for it
I’d love to see it done first before I tried it.

Hope you having a great summer

 

[Sasquatch]

You could do it Charley, just go for it
I’d love to see it done first before I tried it.

Hope you having a great summer

Yep riding my Yamaha Venture and letting the grandkid run me ragged. Not getting near the miles I want on the Bike but when the grandkid goes home I have a trip planned. He is wearing Grandpa out and course I have to spoil him. His Mom gives me the stink eye when I get him to say things she does not like. He such a mimic! It going to be quiet when he leaves and so boring. Was down visiting the other three grandkids couple weeks ago for a week. Three monsters almost killed me. Out side blowing bubbles and inside playing with toys I was in heaven. .My Chrysler 300 gets 30 to 35mpg so I'm happy. Grandkid says go fast grandpa and mimics the dual exhaust roar, its priceless. So been a good summer I think!

 

[mutts edge]

It takes a while to fully cook/destroy the starter/wiring/etc. Usually 20+ minutes. (Most sleds with s stuck starter die within 15-20 miles)
A few minutes of running is unlikely to seriously damage the starter.
However to prevent permanent/expensive damage you must KNOW something is wrong AND act on that info!
Knowledge & Time are important! A few minutes ok, 15 minutes NOT OK!

Meaning: If you know & act on the issue right away, it is not likely to hurt your starter, one way clutch, stator, wiring, etc.
The stator does not have enough power to run the starter and your sled, so if you disconnect the battery with the starter engaged, your sled will shut itself off..

The Starter Saver is intended to let you know if have a problem so you can act on it, & save you many $$$
The idea is to provide an easy to install, low cost device that will help you if needed.
Not all sleds will have an issue at all, many never will.
(So adding a disconnect is not really necessary for most, as most will never have an issue, and you still must know you have an issue for it to do any possible good)
The Starter Saver gives you peace of mind and saves you lots of grief if you DO have an issue.

On my Apex, I pulled the throttle body clamps & threw them in my toolbox.
The boot clamps are a PAIN to install, and are somewhat pointless, as the boots fit tight to the throttle bodies. (Mine do anyway)
(Or you can very lightly snug the clamps as maim mentioned, removing them just makes it easier to re-install the airbox also)

Once you eliminate the boot clamps, it is insanely easy & quick to access everything under the airbox.
1) Release the rubber hold-down on front of airbox.
2) Unplug air sensor.
3) Pull drain hose.
4) Lift airbox out.
You don't even need any tools! Super fast & easy!

Your airbox won't go anywhere. Will work just as before.
Try it, you will wonder why you ever messed with the clamps prior!

Hope this helps

Anyone else agreeing with removing airbox throttle body clamps??? Seems like good idea. Even if you added a rubber hood strap to ensure it stays in place. Definitely makes for easy access to things without playing around with clamps everytime

 

[RobX-1]

Anyone else agreeing with removing airbox throttle body clamps??? Seems like good idea. Even if you added a rubber hood strap to ensure it stays in place. Definitely makes for easy access to things without playing around with clamps everytime

@Rockmeister constantly is telling me to do this when we ride together but I've always resisted as the OCD in me would kill me knowing my airbox boots are not secured like they should be. He was riding my spare Apex and blew the fuse for my heated shield plug and when I told him the fuse was buried down by the battery, is when he started harassing (jokingly) me about not loosening or removing those clamps. My thinking is that generally, I have never had to remove the airbox out in the field and when servicing them in my garage, I have the long hex ball socket that makes accessing those clamps a breeze. Just my two cents but am sure I'll hear about it this weekend during the TY Giveaway ride when we ride together.

 

[Mooseman]

On my Apex, I pulled the throttle body clamps & threw them in my toolbox.
The boot clamps are a PAIN to install, and are somewhat pointless, as the boots fit tight to the throttle bodies. (Mine do anyway)
(Or you can very lightly snug the clamps as maim mentioned, removing them just makes it easier to re-install the airbox also)

You mean that? Yes, mine are still there, just snug when I push the airbox onto the TBs. They are a pain to retighten so I just leave them like this. No issues.

 

[Rockmeister]

@Rockmeister constantly is telling me to do this when we ride together but I've always resisted as the OCD in me would kill me knowing my airbox boots are not secured like they should be. He was riding my spare Apex and blew the fuse for my heated shield plug and when I told him the fuse was buried down by the battery, is when he started harassing (jokingly) me about not loosening or removing those clamps. My thinking is that generally, I have never had to remove the airbox out in the field and when servicing them in my garage, I have the long hex ball socket that makes accessing those clamps a breeze. Just my two cents but am sure I'll hear about it this weekend during the TY Giveaway ride when we ride together.

Yes, I mean that & yes Rob you just wait Buddy!!!

 

[Rockmeister]

Anyone else agreeing with removing airbox throttle body clamps??? Seems like good idea. Even if you added a rubber hood strap to ensure it stays in place. Definitely makes for easy access to things without playing around with clamps everytime

The airbox already has a Rubber Strap on the front from the factory. This strap locks the airbox Down and towards the rear.
When you put the airbox on, notice how it falls into a fitted location, it won't move without lifting the front of airbox first and this is locked down by the factory strap.
The rear is held down by the rubber boots, once the rubber boots are on the intakes, they can be pulled forward, but not really UP.

Even if none of this held the airbox on, the hood itself locks the airbox down.
Try to move it with the hood on, it won't budge.
Heck, try to move it with the hood off, is pretty well locked into place, with or without the clamps.

If you are unsure, simply try it or leave them just barely snug as Maim & Mooseman suggested.

Hope this helps .

RockMeister