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INSTALLED NEW INTENSE TRACK.

DANX123

Expert
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
225
Location
winnipeg manitoba
track aside. who ever the little yellow guys that engineered or over engineered these sleds should be shoot. what a pain in the #*$&@ to do this job. what do we need a seperate mechanical brake for parkibg / DO WHAT EVERYONE ELSE DOES HYDRAULIC BRAKE. THE DRIVE SHAFT. WHY DOES IT HAVE A LOCKING COLLAR TO REMOVE IT? WHY DOES IT HAVE THE BOLTS TO HOLD THE SPEEDO PLATE ON RIVETED ON THE CHASIS? ? WHY NOT TWO PLATES JUST BOLTED TOGETHER? the upper jack sahft bearing install is a joke . totally crazy to revove that from the chassis and the shaft and hard to reinstall. great machine 3000 miles and love the motor. first time track change and bearing replacement 5 hrs. my sons rev track change and bearing replacement 1 hr at the most. sorry to vent.
 

Ever work on a Chevy/Dodge/Ford and then a Nissan/Honda/Toyota ? Same diff. Built way better.

Once you do it a few times its only a couple hour job... The first time I struggled too.
 
Not sure why you would have to remove the rivets on the speedo side bearing. Also, why remove the jack shaft? I changed my track and didn't remove either of the items you mentioned. Just curious...

jf
 
DANX123 said:
what do we need a seperate mechanical brake for parkibg / DO WHAT EVERYONE ELSE DOES HYDRAULIC BRAKE.
Ever notice on your car that you have a separate set of CABLES to run the emergency breaks? Reason for this is simple; hydraulic breaks can LEAK. Usually not when brand new, but they do eventually. Thats why you need a separate break. It is extremely irresponsible for the other manufacturers to use the hydraulic break for the emergency break.

THE DRIVE SHAFT. WHY DOES IT HAVE A LOCKING COLLAR TO REMOVE IT?
Your tunnel is FLEXIBLE -- the rigidity is achieved by locking the two sides of the tunnel to the driveshaft. If it wasn't so, your sled would twist itself apart after just a few days use.

WHY DOES IT HAVE THE BOLTS TO HOLD THE SPEEDO PLATE ON RIVETED ON THE CHASIS?
TO MAKE IT EASIER TO WORK ON

? WHY NOT TWO PLATES JUST BOLTED TOGETHER?
BECAUSE THEY'RE A PAIN IN THE A$$.

the upper jack sahft bearing install is a joke . totally crazy to revove that from the chassis and the shaft and hard to reinstall.
HUH? The bearing needs to be attached to the chassis, otherwise it would flop around and break off, and the shaft needs to be attached to the bearing, otherwise the shaft would slide around and eventually wear and break. You need to remove it? remove the big nut on the back of the collar and knock it out with a piece of wood from the chaincase side. When done, use a circlip tool to remove the circlip the holds in the bearing, and a bearing tool (or a bolt, a couple of washers, and a piece of pipe) to remove the bearing.

great machine 3000 miles and love the motor. first time track change and bearing replacement 5 hrs. my sons rev track change and bearing replacement 1 hr at the most. sorry to vent.

Thats because you approached it wrong.

Remove chaincase side cover, remove breaks, remove reverse linkage (if equipped), remove chaincase cover, remove everything from inside chaincase, remove chaincase, remove bearing cover, loosen bearing locks, remove suspension, remove driveshaft. Correct me if I'm wrong, but thats exactly the same as what you need to do on any other sled. Where you went wrong is when you started messing with the jackshaft and the rivets.
 
DANX123,
sounds to me like you would be more comfortable working on a Cat.
All of the items you complained about are what makes a Yamaha better than a Cat.
 
So much for the saying, "It's no use complaining because nobody's listening anyway."
 
first time took me al little while because this was my first yammie and first sled with reverse. The last time I had it out the time was cut in half. Never timed it but not very long. Once you see what needs to come out and in what order its much easier. I'm sure some makes may be easier but I'll take the build quality any day.
 
i just changed the drivers on my shaft to extros, i thought it was an easy job..other than putting the suspension in,But i found the secret to that was to cut a 2x4 on a slight angle to spread the tunnel apart slightly, then it slipped right in , no problem.
 
I think it's easy probaly because I have had tracks in and out so many times on the 4 strokes.

I think Lb pretty much sumbed it up for your questions.
 
SORRY IF I VOICE MY OPINION. i never said the suspension was hard to install. its the least difficult of the job. i didnt remove any rivets, ijust stated the the plate with the four bolts that hold the speed drive cap on would be easier to remove if the plate wasnt riveted. much like a skidoo.
the same goes for the jack shaft bearing on the pto side. i dont see any need to have a bearing locked in with a oval wedge and a locking collar behind it. i have a rev as well and have not had any bearing coming loose or rattling around and its much easier to remove and relace than the yamaha. i have never had a polaris ,skidoo or any other sled have a hydraulic emegency brake leak, sorry if do not wish to here that. i like my yamaha very much but feel some items are over engineered.
i have a yamaha yz250f and its much simpler to work on.
seems no one in this form can take or stand to hear any complaints about yamaha. this is my third year as stated. like it or not its hard to work on. ps i took all shafts out to repalce the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings.
 
DANX123 said:
SORRY IF I VOICE MY OPINION. i never said the suspension was hard to install. its the least difficult of the job. i didnt remove any rivets, ijust stated the the plate with the four bolts that hold the speed drive cap on would be easier to remove if the plate wasnt riveted. much like a skidoo.
the same goes for the jack shaft bearing on the pto side. i dont see any need to have a bearing locked in with a oval wedge and a locking collar behind it. i have a rev as well and have not had any bearing coming loose or rattling around and its much easier to remove and relace than the yamaha. i have never had a polaris ,skidoo or any other sled have a hydraulic emegency brake leak, sorry if do not wish to here that. i like my yamaha very much but feel some items are over engineered.
i have a yamaha yz250f and its much simpler to work on.
seems no one in this form can take or stand to hear any complaints about yamaha. this is my third year as stated. like it or not its hard to work on. ps i took all shafts out to repalce the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings.
I couldn't agree more! ;)! It's just plain silly to work on these things! Worst engineered machine (from a service-prospective) I've ever had the misfortune to work on! Even after reading up on how to do the track-change, it's still baffles me how they have engineered this thing! Part of it MUST be to make more money for the dealers servicing them, it can't be anything else?????? I just hope (and prey) I won't have to do this ever again!

The other thing that still has me wondering, is the tunnel... Don't they get big enough sheets of aluminum in Japan to make the tunnel one-piece on the LTX's??? It has to be the weirdest extension made in the last 30 years... EVERYTHING is an afterthought! Or maybe Yamaha has a deal with one of the car-maufacturers or something, to take any scrap-sheet of them, to use in their own production? LOL Perhaps they have shares in a pop-rivet manufacturer also??? It's so many on there, one has to wonder... ;)! :rofl:
 
Just changed the track on my old RX1 for a bud. Easy enough, once you do it. I will say after 5000 miles, everything was in excellent shape, even the pto side bearing. All that stuff must do something right. This sled's been through the ringer, but looks good inside.
 
Wow! I have worked on a lot of sleds over the years for various manufactures and I thought the RX/RS platform is one of the easiest tracks to change ever. While having to remove the chain case sounds like a big deal, it is a matter of what, 3 extra bolts I think? With the case removed and the 3 bolts for the speedo side bearing retainer, there is plenty of room to wiggle the jackshaft out of the tunnel. Only catch is having a very deep 36mm socket for the upper sprocket nut, and though I would never recommend it, I’ve heard of it being done with a crescent wrench. I know it is much easier on these sleds than my 03SX-R. The fact that a couple of Phillips head screws are all you need to remove in order to completely remove the lower side panels is the beauty of these machines. Excellent access to everything outside the bulkhead. I honestly don’t think it would take me more than 90 minutes to do a complete track change by myself on my RTX.

And the above comment about the mechanical parking brake cable is 100% accurate. I had tried to license a dune buggy once, and the laws in Minnesota are that you need to have two separate and independent means of applying the brakes.
 


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