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Installing skid plate

thor452

Because I can
Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Messages
3,029
Location
Shawano,WI 54166
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2012 Apex XTX 2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
Is it safe to drill thru in the front corners of the alum under the engine as I started to drill thru i went thru the first layer of alum (the thin outer plate and is the only part i had to drill thru on the rear holes) but up front there is anouther layer of alum and i just want to be certian that it is okay to proceed before i finish the holes. 2012 apex XTX
 

Wrap a good amount of duct tape around the drill bit 3/8th of an inch down from the tip. That will keep you from damaging anything when you break through the second layer.
 
Yes there is clearance but not too much, this is why its a good idea to put a limiter on drill depth so when the drill breaks through it doesnt jam through and damage something.
A buddy just did this to his sled and punctured the coolant hose, then he drank beer while it drained all the coolant out!!
 
Yes there is clearance but not too much, this is why its a good idea to put a limiter on drill depth so when the drill breaks through it doesnt jam through and damage something.
A buddy just did this to his sled and punctured the coolant hose, then he drank beer while it drained all the coolant out!!
YIKES! That's not a good spot to do that to at all.
 
If its the Yamaha skid plate, the holes usually line up with 4 existing rivets in the bulkhead and you simply drill the heads off and tap the rivets out.
I usually just tap the rivet holes with a 6mm tap and install the plate, if they strip out eventually I will use the riv-nuts supplied. There is room for the riv-nuts in there, I'm estimating maybe 10mm or so clearance. The key is to control the depth you allow the drill to pass through the bulkhead, 3/8-1/2" of drill exposure is lots.
I use a random collar or a stack of washers over the drill to act as a hard stop so you cant go too deep and damage anything.
 
I am useing well nuts and the holes dont line up with the rivits i bought it used and it is off an older apex mountain but it fits. thanks for your reply I think i will put a collar on the drill bit then
 
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On 3 different Apex's I've done skid plates I made the holes i the skid larger to make it easier to put on during installation but most important putting on after oil changes. I used SS fender washers and SS Hex head bolts so it's real easy to on and off. I used Rivnuts from McMasters and a homemade rivnut tool to secure them.
 
If you use the aluminum rivnuts from McMasters order the 25 pak part # ALA1-610-6.6, 4 or 5 bucks. the 6.6 means they are 6.6mm long which is better than the 4.4mm that they used to give
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you in the kit with the skidplate. The 6.6 will not pull out. You have to use the 6.6 because of exactly the reason this thread was started, there are two layers of metal. Now the good news, if you are using these rivnuts, you can use the same bolt(Yamaha part # 90154-06009) that holds your lower body panel on. It is a flat and wide head that you tighten with a Philips to 27 inch lbs. torque. Used these after a rock ripped off the traditional bolt head. If you get your rivnuts somewhere else, check that they match up to whatever bolt you are using, I believe the body panel bolts are metric.
 
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