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Kingers BOOSTED garage....

Hi Lee,

Yes lets talk when your not busy.

RXrider - that is what I am thinking as well, if all that gets messed up is the tank cover I think I can live with that and adapt the XP plastics and morph to the apex plastic and then have it all painted.
 

I have been playing with this XP trail tank (12.5 gallons) and so far impressed with how it will fit. I had a terrible time finding ANY pictures of this, there are NONE with the stock tunnel exhaust hump. Most cut that out and make a flat plate. I want to attempt to keep that tunnel hump in tact and see if I can document what is needed to work. For now I don't have any answers but I have pictures. So I will fill up the post with pictures. My challenge now is to get a muffler in there that is QUIET.

To start the XP tank has a relief in it for the XP stock heat exchanger it fits almost PERFECT into the stock exhaust hump.


The stock gas tank bolts need to be removed:


Stock gas tank cover fits well:


Lots of room now!




















Some weights:

Stock exhaust


Stock seat with trunk full of tools, trail ready


Stock XP seat



Trail tank gas tank weight



Turbo header I am thinking of using to route exhaust and tunnel dump




More to come!
 
Great pics kinger.
The XP tank is the way to go.
It's a lot easier to make it work With the XP tank vs the REV tank.
You have a lot more distance between the engine and the tank compared to my sled running the REV tank.
To make a REV tank fit on the Apex plastics we had to cut and modify the filler neck to have the filler neck fit the Stock plastic.
Looking forward to se Your progress.
If I ever build another front or mid Mount turbo sled on the Apex chassis I will definitively go With the XP tank and seat :)
 
Yes I am very pleased with the XP fitment. The seat is just the icing on the cake that it weighs less then a boss seat! With the trail tank 12.5 gallon tank they get the extra capacity by making it taller, so I think I will be up about 1-2" more with this combo then stock so hopefully I like that. I have been riding more standing up so I'm thinking that will be a nice improvement. The seat is also sticky where you sit and not slippery. I think I will like that too. I have some AWESOME ideas how to make this look OEM fitment but with my usual marble flare. It will be awesome. Now I just need to figure out a muffler, trying to stuff as big one in there as I can to keep it quiet, riding a loud sled is the worst thing I have ever done to a sled. That is also why I am choosing to keep the exhaust hump in the tunnel, if I have to I want to be able to run it out the back again!

I could use some help with what adhesive to use for adapting the yamaha sender to the XP tank like how you fastened yours to the rev tank. Any pointers? I know you said it was easy so I haven't put any thought into it yet.
 
We measured the hole in the Stock Yamaha tank and figured where to cut on the REV tank.
We drilled the holes using the Stock sender as a template and used a set of nuts With studs in them to grip the inside of the tank.
We used an Aircraft grade adhesive that will withstand any fuel on the market.
I really don't know where my friend got hold of the nuts and adhesive, but work on helicopters and gyrocopters on a daily basis.
It has not ever leaked, the sender Works perfectly. You will most likely have to modify the sender arm.
We bent the arm until it had the travel needed to measure from full to empty With greatest accuracy possibly.
 
Just did 400 miles this weekend in Cable, WI. Sled was flawless again even though I totally slacked on the maintenance this year. I will have to wait till summer to do all the mods, I rode it with stock tank and exhaust. I just realized the sled is over 9 years old this weekend but still drew a crowd everywhere I went! This sled rules...
 
Yeah tell me about it.
The old style sleds turboed to the extereme still turn heads.
Can't wait to see the final Product :)
 
Little update: The kids have been keeping me away from the sled but I brought it back in the shop. Last few years I have had a oil leak and more concerned was use of about 1 qt of oil ever 400 miles. I was thinking the engine had finally given up so before I wasted a lot of time on the chassis I decided to check the compression. I fired the sled up and got it up to temp. While idling I noticed oil was puddling under the sled. Upon closer inspection I found that the mag seal for the MPI supercharger drive pulley was leaking oil like MAD. I mean it was a a steady stream running out. Once up to temp I checked the compression. 100-100-105-105 almost identical across all 4 cylinders so I am good to go! So excited the motor is healthy and its just a bad leak that was causing my oil problem. Dang this sled is impressive! I got a new oil seal on order from MPI and a new belt since this one is covered in oil.

Time to continue on with my diet plan for the girl. I have lots of things in the works and when its story time I will post the pictures with details.

I did want to ask a question. Has anyone ever seen a push-pull cable set up on a snowmobile and any cons? Here is my thought. Eliminate all the linkage for the steering. At the bottom of the steering post go left and right with a cable that goes to the upper frame of the delta box and runs down the frame towards the nose into a pulley that turns it 90 degrees and connects to one of the steering pivots where I weld on (or make a entire new steering pivot) that the cable from each side attaches to. Add a tensioner and voila you have direct cable steering with 1/4" aircraft SS cable in micro pulleys with ball bearings. The pulleys will be mounted on the upper aluminum frame. Basically I need a modified steering pivot and 4 pulleys. Where is the flaw with this? This is a 15-18lb weight savings PLUS zero slop in steering with no linkages. I'm also thinking it will steer so smooth it may not be good on a trail as right now the friction in the linkages help keep it stable? I'm asking for guidance, experience, advice here. I'm still not sure if I can get the pulleys to fit but I think I have room. This wouldn't work with the stock tank you would need a rev/xp tank and no turbo smack in the way just like my set up.

Thoughts? Thanks TY!
 
How about a single cable which works in compression and tension like boat outboard engines use. I have thought about it but never got around to trying it. Incorporate an easy steering ratio adjustment while your at it.
 
Never seen a wire steering on anything else than boats with outboard engines.
How will it stand up to the constant beating the front gets riding over the rough stuff.
If the cables can handle it you're OK, but if the cable breaks you're in deep poodoo.
However, I really like the idea, so innovative.
It would be an industry first I'm sure of :)
 
I have been looking at the push pull cable for a outboard but they are heavy and the orientation is to long (designed to go inside the dash not down from handlebars) and I don't trust the forces on that thing compared to a boat. The cable however I think would be perfect if I can make the pulleys fit in there. I can also run double pulleys with two cables on each side so if one breaks I got one left! The cable is so light you could run two of them and have a safety margin. Now I need to try and find a small pulley!
 
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Got my new 75mm LED lights in, that plus an ultra lightweight aluminum light pedestal saved me over 3lbs compared to my old HID and modified headlight assembly shown here:

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Lights have a LED way in the back and a super reflective chrome housing, changes the sled to look a little more sinister for sure!

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