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Knock boxes...

wheeline said:
midwestboat said:
wheeline said:
How do you tune your parker knock box?
I tune mine by taking off the back cover and there is a sensativity adjustment in there to turn and adjust.
OK, I see the place to adjust it but do you adjust till the light comes on then turn it back a little?

Yep, thats the idea... Mine only does the "test" when i start the sled, I have it set as sensitive as it goes. According to Mr. Parker some motors ran smoother than others so the sensitivity doesn't go down low enough for all..

In my personal opinion... this was not one of my better investments...
 

tonykof said:
wheeline said:
midwestboat said:
wheeline said:
How do you tune your parker knock box?
I tune mine by taking off the back cover and there is a sensativity adjustment in there to turn and adjust.
OK, I see the place to adjust it but do you adjust till the light comes on then turn it back a little?

Yep, thats the idea... Mine only does the "test" when i start the sled, I have it set as sensitive as it goes. According to Mr. Parker some motors ran smoother than others so the sensitivity doesn't go down low enough for all..

In my personal opinion... this was not one of my better investments...


On my rx1 engine too it does not get low enough to show false knock at idle... but trust me... last winter when it started blinking on me... I knew something was going wrong.... I did made a couple test runs after that... and not long after... head gasket blew while the knock sensor was blinkking again... so yes they work!
 
Mulot Turbo... I am sorry to hear that happened to you. Although, I was hoping that somebody had an experience like this that proved that it could actually give a real warning if the situation arose. Hope you didn't miss a lot of riding while you had to fix it. Thanks for the input!!! :Rockon:
 
MulotTurbo said:
tonykof said:
wheeline said:
midwestboat said:
wheeline said:
How do you tune your parker knock box?
I tune mine by taking off the back cover and there is a sensativity adjustment in there to turn and adjust.
OK, I see the place to adjust it but do you adjust till the light comes on then turn it back a little?

Yep, thats the idea... Mine only does the "test" when i start the sled, I have it set as sensitive as it goes. According to Mr. Parker some motors ran smoother than others so the sensitivity doesn't go down low enough for all..

In my personal opinion... this was not one of my better investments...


On my rx1 engine too it does not get low enough to show false knock at idle... but trust me... last winter when it started blinking on me... I knew something was going wrong.... I did made a couple test runs after that... and not long after... head gasket blew while the knock sensor was blinkking again... so yes they work!


Okay, Mr Parker said he was confident it still will work, so I guess there's the proof.
 
snowprophet1 said:
Mulot Turbo... I am sorry to hear that happened to you. Although, I was hoping that somebody had an experience like this that proved that it could actually give a real warning if the situation arose. Hope you didn't miss a lot of riding while you had to fix it. Thanks for the input!!! :Rockon:

No problem...

I got the engine rebuilt with 9-1 JE pistons at same time...


so now I have no more worries to run the perfect mix of race-fuel and pump fuel...

87 octane with 230hp is very good for me (at least for what I use this machine for)
 
Since you lowered your compression so you can run lower octance, how much difference is there in the way it runs (low end response, etc)?
 
snowprophet1 said:
Since you lowered your compression so you can run lower octance, how much difference is there in the way it runs (low end response, etc)?


since its a twin screw blower in there, I don't have any difference in response from lower compression.

HP is somewhat down... but not that much.


Only difference is I have somewhat lower boost level (same pulleys) but more hp per # of boost compared to before which I find a bit weird....
 


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