DMCTurbo
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Curious if anyone has had success running helixes with lower than a 35 finish. I'm going to run a 1.70 gear ratio and thought that a lower finish angle may help on long pulls by holding the belt more and keeping belt temps down which may in turn improve mph. I'm considering trying a 39/31 or 38/32. 290 tune.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
DMC
Any thoughts??
Thanks
DMC
Doowithblue
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I'm wondering the same. I'd like to have a 35/33 or 35/32 to test
race24x
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I went to a 39/31 Dalton this past winter and put 1600 trouble free miles on my previous belt blower. I am not going to take credit as Clutchmaster made the recommendation, however I was running Northern Maine and Canadian trails wide open blasts for miles on and off the throttle on a sled that was stock I didnt dare hold it past 80 MPH. to be fair I also did Dalton Clutch weights Dalton springs bought the Hurricane alignment tool took some off my secondary backside and the plug which removed the float. Pretty much every trick and I blew one belt. After the helix no blown belts and that was wide open 8in of snow on a couple trips etc. oh yeah 825 belt
DMCTurbo
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Nice report, I think a low finish is not only going to be easier on belts but may lead to a few more mph.I went to a 39/31 Dalton this past winter and put 1600 trouble free miles on my previous belt blower. I am not going to take credit as Clutchmaster made the recommendation, however I was running Northern Maine and Canadian trails wide open blasts for miles on and off the throttle on a sled that was stock I didnt dare hold it past 80 MPH. to be fair I also did Dalton Clutch weights Dalton springs bought the Hurricane alignment tool took some off my secondary backside and the plug which removed the float. Pretty much every trick and I blew one belt. After the helix no blown belts and that was wide open 8in of snow on a couple trips etc. oh yeah 825 belt
J & J Racing
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It will slow the sled down
Not going to gain anything but belt pinch in secondary
Not going to gain anything but belt pinch in secondary
DMCTurbo
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Do you have any recommendations or best to stick with close to a 35 finish?It will slow the sled down
Not going to gain anything but belt pinch in secondary
woodysattak
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I know with the pb-80 the 37 finish gained 1 to 1 .5 mph in a 1000 ft compared to 35 finish. But this was with the pb-80 not the yammie primary.
Fleecer
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I've had best luck with the 35.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
From my experience, the Sidewinders have a tendency to start to build revs as they shift out at the higher speeds and a lower finish Helix would only increase this tendency.
Mine on the 300 setting really wants to rev.
You can make almost any helix work by adjusting the primary weights and springs.
I have always taken a very simple approach at picking helixs for tuning.
If a sled came with a straight angle helix I always ended my helix selection at that angle.
For example:
-sled came with a straight 35' helix I would start tuning with a 41/35 or a 39/35 and then adjust the primary to dial it in. I never went lower angle then the Yamaha factory had picked.
On my tuned Winder I am using a 39/35...it came with a 33/35...I also like 41/35 depending on conditions.
I select secondary springs and wrap on only what is required to stop belt slip.
Works for me.
Mine on the 300 setting really wants to rev.
You can make almost any helix work by adjusting the primary weights and springs.
I have always taken a very simple approach at picking helixs for tuning.
If a sled came with a straight angle helix I always ended my helix selection at that angle.
For example:
-sled came with a straight 35' helix I would start tuning with a 41/35 or a 39/35 and then adjust the primary to dial it in. I never went lower angle then the Yamaha factory had picked.
On my tuned Winder I am using a 39/35...it came with a 33/35...I also like 41/35 depending on conditions.
I select secondary springs and wrap on only what is required to stop belt slip.
Works for me.
snowcaine
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From my experience, the Sidewinders have a tendency to start to build revs as they shift out at the higher speeds and a lower finish Helix would only increase this tendency.
Mine on the 300 setting really wants to rev.
You can make almost any helix work by adjusting the primary weights and springs.
I have always taken a very simple approach at picking helixs for tuning.
If a sled came with a straight angle helix I always ended my helix selection at that angle.
For example:
-sled came with a straight 35' helix I would start tuning with a 41/35 or a 39/35 and then adjust the primary to dial it in. I never went lower angle then the Yamaha factory had picked.
On my tuned Winder I am using a 39/35...it came with a 33/35...I also like 41/35 depending on conditions.
I select secondary springs and wrap on only what is required to stop belt slip.
Works for me.
What conditions would make you pick the 41/35 over the 39/35? Thanks.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
What conditions would make you pick the 41/35 over the 39/35? Thanks.
I run the 41/35 in January /Febuary in the real cold weather and hard packed trails. I don't run studs so I am dealing with track spin all the time. If using studs and traction is not an issue I would probably stick with 39/35.
Fast
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What did you notice running the 41/35 compared to the 39/35, more bottom end snappier or lessFrom my experience, the Sidewinders have a tendency to start to build revs as they shift out at the higher speeds and a lower finish Helix would only increase this tendency.
Mine on the 300 setting really wants to rev.
You can make almost any helix work by adjusting the primary weights and springs.
I have always taken a very simple approach at picking helixs for tuning.
If a sled came with a straight angle helix I always ended my helix selection at that angle.
For example:
-sled came with a straight 35' helix I would start tuning with a 41/35 or a 39/35 and then adjust the primary to dial it in. I never went lower angle then the Yamaha factory had picked.
On my tuned Winder I am using a 39/35...it came with a 33/35...I also like 41/35 depending on conditions.
I select secondary springs and wrap on only what is required to stop belt slip.
Works for me.
sideshowBob
Lifetime Member
What did you notice running the 41/35 compared to the 39/35, more bottom end snappier or less
The 41/35 upshifts a little quicker initially then the 39/35 so if all other things being equal it would be a little less snappy.
74Nitro
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Bob, your sled is a 2018? My finishing angle is 39, I'm considering a straight 39 next year over the stock 35/39.
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