stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
fxnytroxtx said:Cannon you seem like a very knowledgeable guy and I appreciate your concern, and this could be fixed with some after market shocks, but I refuse to put anymore $ in to this sled. At the price I paid for it it should have been close to any other high performance sleds that come standard with wide range of suspension adjustability at almost same price.cannondale27 said:Sure would like to try helping you. Find the LTX only suspension thread and keep a eye on it. We will figure it out.
Did you soften the suspension before you rode it? Especially the front skid shock?
fxnytroxtx
Guest
Thanks cannon. Well I'll say what the guys at hygear told my friend a member on here with an ltx se. The rear shock has 1000 psi of resistance according to their dyno, where an average rear shock should be around 300 psi + -, and the front skid shock for some odd reason is way to soft, the torsion springs are to stiff to, Ross added softer ones I believe .375, but he's trying to find even softer ones. They haven't gotten a chance to get the specs on front floats. He's got axis on all 4 corners and I rode the sled and it's pretty darn good if you ask me, but I don't think I'll get mine half way as good with the OEMs and I'll probably just spend a bunch of $ trying so and at the end I'll probably say why the eff didn't I just by axis from the start, which will cost in $3-3500 range.
fxnytroxtx
Guest
Now a little about my sled. First couple of hundred miles everything stock at the softest settings there is, the rear was harsh/stiff even at those settings, the front at 60 psi was decent but had a lot of side to side movement on the big stuff. Then got my rear shock revalved, it got a bit better, but now the torsion springs been so stiff It started rebounding to much, so now I need softer springs. At first after the revalve I didn't notice any bottoming, but on my last big trip on the way back when trails got really rough I felt the front skid shock bottom quite a bit, so now I have to revalve the front shock, but there's still the front end with that side to side movement,which gave me a serious case of blisters which is eliminated on my friends sled with the addition of axis shocks. So the way I see this is I try to get the oems to work wwhich probably won't be as cheap, but like I said before I don't feel like putting anymore $ into this thing anymore.
Sorry for my English it's my 3rd language.
Sorry for my English it's my 3rd language.
stiff
After coming off a 2010 800r x with ajustable shocks this ride is much better nicer and a 2006 apex 2008 nytro 2010 f8 and a 2005 rev the 2005 rev was the best all in all this sled is darn good for me first sled i didnt have to buy bigger springs 280 dressed
After coming off a 2010 800r x with ajustable shocks this ride is much better nicer and a 2006 apex 2008 nytro 2010 f8 and a 2005 rev the 2005 rev was the best all in all this sled is darn good for me first sled i didnt have to buy bigger springs 280 dressed
And a 2011 rush yes i did work at a dealer poo cat yahama so got to ride them all .Been mostly doo but tried of doing the 2 stroke tang go want to ride not rebuild motors i do that all day .And I ride alot 5000 miles a year tried of typing .NEED TO RIDE
fxnytroxtx said:Thanks cannon. Well I'll say what the guys at hygear told my friend a member on here with an ltx se. The rear shock has 1000 psi of resistance according to their dyno, where an average rear shock should be around 300 psi + -, and the front skid shock for some odd reason is way to soft, the torsion springs are to stiff to, Ross added softer ones I believe .375, but he's trying to find even softer ones. They haven't gotten a chance to get the specs on front floats. He's got axis on all 4 corners and I rode the sled and it's pretty darn good if you ask me, but I don't think I'll get mine half way as good with the OEMs and I'll probably just spend a bunch of $ trying so and at the end I'll probably say why the eff didn't I just by axis from the start, which will cost in $3-3500 range.
tuned them with hygear a few weeks back, glad u like them ! cant beat the axis for adjustability.
Bad Attitude
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Can I ask you how much you weight? I know there is no sag setting on the Viper. I have asked and asked. No one knows what the starting point of this rear suspension should be. There has to be a point to hold too. I have dug out my old sag setup on my Nytro. I was going to use that measurement from the arm to the blocks as a starting point. I had a friend who purchased a Vector LTX a couple of years back. He hated it for the first few weeks. I asked did anyone at the dealer help you setup the suspension. He looked at me like a deer in the headlights. Suspension setup? Dealer shoved it out the door like a 1971 unit and said here is your sled. We found the sag setting in the manual. We set his suspension up properly and he has been happy with the sled ever since. When you set on the sled does the rear arm set against the blocks? At this point I do not think it does from what your telling us. Does it move at all when you sit on it?
fxnytroxtx
Guest
I weigh 200 lbs fully dressed with gear. As far as set up goes I've tried to do that but this thing does not have any sag at all.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
I weigh 230 and stock springs had maybe a 1/2" of sag at the rear bumper. Put in softer springs and now I have roughly 2" of sag at the rear bumper. With stock springs when I would fully compress rear suspension..which took all my weight to push down on the rear bumper..my sled would rebound to full travel in less than 1 second. Now with softer springs it was around 2 seconds to rebound back to full travel. This is with the sled sitting flat on the ground and all thawed out so no snow or ice causing any interference. Riding the sled tonight so hopefully this is a better spring setup and now can valve the shocks properly
fxnytroxtx
Guest
race79 said:And a 2011 rush yes i did work at a dealer poo cat yahama so got to ride them all .Been mostly doo but tried of doing the 2 stroke tang go want to ride not rebuild motors i do that all day .And I ride alot 5000 miles a year tried of typing .NEED TO RIDE
This is the only reason I haven't parted my way with yamaha is this engine, I absolutely love it for the type of riding I do, great bottom, good mid, and exceptional top end. I don't really care for top speed no more had turbo nytro, it was nice to fly 120+ mph, but I geared it down and the sled became way morr fun.
But looks like the engine alone won't keep me here to long, if I can't get this thing to handle the way it should have been from the factory.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Just a thought but what are the chances yamaha will have a recall to put in softer springs? Seems everyone is complaining their sleds are too stiff. You'd think eventually it will get back to yamaha and they will want to fix it. Not saying stiff springs is the only issue but it certainly isn't helping matters.
Yamacat21
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I don't know if there is something wrong however, dad has a LTX and I have a LTX SE and the rear setup from the factory was significantly different. His sags almost two inches when I get on it and mine doesn't even move. Honestly I don't mind my skid being stiff but I'm also a very aggressive rider. If you want to cruise sitting down all day a softer rear may be nice.
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1. Studroes. Can you have someone measure the distance from the rear arm to the blocks as they have done on the nytro. I think that is a more accurate measurement for the spring sag? Not the frame to the ground. Where are the springs set as far as tension, Highest, medium, low?
2. Fxnytro; Yours does not move at all when you sit on it. Period. You need to have it sag. The rear arm does not move with you on sled? Did you have a buddy watching? Where are you running your spring adjusters? Low, medium or Hard. Stock spring? Then if there is no sag the springs are incorrect for you.
As with dirt bikes. Spring setup sag gets you started and into the game. The shock rebound and compression come after your spring sag is set up. I am at work right now our I would have that sag dimension off the nytro rear skid. I will check that dimension when I get home. Measuring from the frame of the sled I do not think will be the way to go.
2. Fxnytro; Yours does not move at all when you sit on it. Period. You need to have it sag. The rear arm does not move with you on sled? Did you have a buddy watching? Where are you running your spring adjusters? Low, medium or Hard. Stock spring? Then if there is no sag the springs are incorrect for you.
As with dirt bikes. Spring setup sag gets you started and into the game. The shock rebound and compression come after your spring sag is set up. I am at work right now our I would have that sag dimension off the nytro rear skid. I will check that dimension when I get home. Measuring from the frame of the sled I do not think will be the way to go.
Thumper1
Extreme
getting revalved rear shocks from hygear tomorrow. will take for test ride tomorrow night. got axis shocks on front yesterday. i am keeping the stock springs for now and will see what revalve does. when i took the rear shocks out, and used the springs only, i got 4+ inches of sag easy. we'll see what it feels like tomorrow. anything is going to be better than it was. yes, we have a Rmotion in our group. thats how a rear suspension is susposed to stroke!
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
Ok just did some measuring. Keep in mind I have my plastic transfer blocks out for a little added transfer. The measurement before I sit on it is 2-3/8" from the arm to the flat spot on the shaft. When I sit on it it's a 1/2". So almost 2 inches of sag. Hope this helps.
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