sstickler
Extreme
I followed gormleyflyer2002's set-up and have found Nirvana on my RTX...thanks for the inspiration! Limiter strap on the third hole, center shock pre-load to a couple threads showing, Fox floats set at 50#, rear spring set on Hard...I thought my C&A Razors would have more bite with the strap pulled up but they actually feel lighter...maybe it is because the set-up is more consistent now w/o the extreme weight transfer...
I was pounding the stutter bumps and really enjoyed diving into the corners in the twisties...this is EXACTLY why I love this site!
Now looking for a few things to see if this bad boy can even be better...
I was pounding the stutter bumps and really enjoyed diving into the corners in the twisties...this is EXACTLY why I love this site!
Now looking for a few things to see if this bad boy can even be better...
NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
is the spring adjuster hard to get at? Do you have to pull the shock out to adjust it?
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
NB-NYTRO said:is the spring adjuster hard to get at? Do you have to pull the shock out to adjust it?
No, you just need to use a spanner wrench.
Fasttoys
Pro
lucky_7 said:NB-NYTRO said:is the spring adjuster hard to get at? Do you have to pull the shock out to adjust it?
No, you just need to use a spanner wrench.
where can i get a spanner wrench for adjusting
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Honestly, I haven't even looked in the tool kit...did one not come with it?
The tool has an arm, then a 1/2 circle on the end of it (same diameter as the adjuster nut on the bottom of the shock) with 1 tooth at the end of the 1/2 circle to grab the adjuster nut....
If the tool kit doesn't have it, you can get it at any dealer.....or go all ghetto and use a hammer and screw driver....
The tool has an arm, then a 1/2 circle on the end of it (same diameter as the adjuster nut on the bottom of the shock) with 1 tooth at the end of the 1/2 circle to grab the adjuster nut....
If the tool kit doesn't have it, you can get it at any dealer.....or go all ghetto and use a hammer and screw driver....
Fasttoys
Pro
no i didnt get a tool kit hmmm thats fishy 

lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
You didn't get a toolkit at all? Mine came in the bag at the nose of the sled. The manual and tool kit were in the bag that also houses the spare belt and float pump (RTX...)
Fasttoys
Pro
yep no tool kit my black bag was empty and when i picked up my sled they handed me my new manual
Anyone try this set-up on a standard (non-RTX) model? Is the front track shock spring the same? I've changed the comp setting on my rear shock to 4 & moved the spring adjuster to Hard to reduce my bottoming - now it doesn't bottom too bad, but the ride is very stiff. I would like to get the front end to rail corners better -so I will try pulling in the front strap next. If I changed the rear coupling blocks, could I go back to M on the rear spring & get back the better ride over the stutters?
BLUEBALLER
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2005
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I've tried raising the both straps 1 hole each and backing off the center shock preload, but depending on snow/trail conditions, this sled will handle completely differently. On sunday our trails were recently groomed, had seen alot of traffic and the sled handled great in the loose snow!! I was finally happy. Yesterday the trails had set up overnight and it was quite a bit colder and I had WICKED inside ski lift and is was more "point and shoot" style of riding all day long. On another bad note, my buddy kicked my A*^ across a hard drift ridden field on a bloody 500SS. I couldn't even stay near him as I feared I was going to get bucked off this wild beast. He bought it two weeks ago and hasn't ridden in 8 years. I felt like a shmuck. Front end wasn't very confidence inspiring to say the least. I will try adjusting front shock preload again, but a revalve may soon be in order. I hope I can dial this in, or a trade may be happening sooner than lateryamy07 said:Anyone try this set-up on a standard (non-RTX) model? Is the front track shock spring the same? I've changed the comp setting on my rear shock to 4 & moved the spring adjuster to Hard to reduce my bottoming - now it doesn't bottom too bad, but the ride is very stiff. I would like to get the front end to rail corners better -so I will try pulling in the front strap next. If I changed the rear coupling blocks, could I go back to M on the rear spring & get back the better ride over the stutters?

Is your's an RTX or standard Fx?
BLUEBALLER
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2005
- Messages
- 420
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- 491
standard
sstickler
Extreme
lucky_7 said:Honestly, I haven't even looked in the tool kit...did one not come with it?
The tool has an arm, then a 1/2 circle on the end of it (same diameter as the adjuster nut on the bottom of the shock) with 1 tooth at the end of the 1/2 circle to grab the adjuster nut....
If the tool kit doesn't have it, you can get it at any dealer.....or go all ghetto and use a hammer and screw driver....
Yo lucky_7...I went "all ghetto" with the hammer and screwdriver...too funny!

NB-NYTRO
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I think I'm gonna try this... I put on 160 hard miles yesteday. I noticed it the kickback as the front of the skid bottomed out and then the rear kicked me back on some of the bigger moguls. It should help on jump landings to.. So front limiter strap three holes eh? Its going to have a lot of inside ski-lift on hard pack with the tourque this thing has.. no way around it. but flatter cornering is must need for me..
unchained
Expert
I raised the front limiter 2 holes, backed off the pre-load about 3/8" from stock, set the rear torsions on 3 (hard), widened the ski stance, added bergrstom shims for darting, customized the bottomed of the ski's added 6" Shapers and it made a HUGE improvement in the corners and was actually fun to ride for once.yamy07 said:Anyone try this set-up on a standard (non-RTX) model? Is the front track shock spring the same? I've changed the comp setting on my rear shock to 4 & moved the spring adjuster to Hard to reduce my bottoming - now it doesn't bottom too bad, but the ride is very stiff. I would like to get the front end to rail corners better -so I will try pulling in the front strap next. If I changed the rear coupling blocks, could I go back to M on the rear spring & get back the better ride over the stutters?
The sled was still waaaay to harsh in the stutters or small chop so I then backed off the rebound clickers down to 3 clicks out and WOW what a difference in the bumps. Finally the sled skips over the average Michigan trail junk like a REV. Need to play with the front pre-loads and compressions still but backing off the rebounds made a HUGE diff
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