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MPI Supercharger

I have seen oil do this before in cold weather. It usually means that you are using too heavy of viscosity oil. In winter you want a lightweight viscosity oil with additives for proper protection like a 5w10 or lighter and it should flow way better. Another option is to wire up a small pad heating element wrapped around the oil tank and to a switch so that any time it is unlikely godly cold you can have the extra piece of mind. That's just my two cents on your situation
 

Do you have any idea on the spec of there traction oil? I can't find specs for it anywhere and I'm told that's the only oil you can run in the rotrex.
 
I thought about wrapping the tank with a 12v heat element on a switch. It just doesn't make sense having an oil cooler and then wrapping the tank to keep the oil warm. I think I'll rig up an oil temp gauge for it instead.
 
Look into something similar to Eastman turbo oil for cold weather
 
Loneida23 said:
Look into something similar to Eastman turbo oil for cold weather
Click to expand...
That is what most aircraft manufacturers use and let's face it if it is good enough for them it can also be used for us as we service our sleds more often. And that's rediculous that they say only to use their oil the same style supercharger on a car feeds off the existing oil supply of the vehicle they don't add another oil tank. Do you all have a magnetic in line oil filter? It's a must in my eyes on these systems.
 
I'm running the magnetic filter. I noticed they changed to the sx150 and the sx100 is no longer available. But there are still no specs.
I've been looking at the mobil 254 jet oil. I might have to be the test dummy. Good fluidity at -40 and a pour point below -65.
 
So I found out what was going on with my sled and the mystery plug has to have been dropped during a service , he couldn't find it and replaced it with another. But the wiring to my ignition was poorly connected with unplug able connectors, I wired it solid and no more problems with running, I didn't notice but it was throwing code 33 so I swapped the ignitor on 1 and 2 still the same so that is when I found this wire
 
I have a Nytro with the stage one kit on it. Last year 200 miles in my shaft did the same thing. It was so disappointing. So contacted MPI in May 2014 and finally got my new one in December 2014! I hope they warranty it for you guys. In all my waiting I did a lot of reading on rotrex site. Found out the proper priming sequence. In Ohio still not enough snow to ride much but all the testing went well. Also learned more information on the mounting of the oil cooler according to there standards. Also did the catch can this time
 
ShafeNytro said:
I have a Nytro with the stage one kit on it. Last year 200 miles in my shaft did the same thing. It was so disappointing. So contacted MPI in May 2014 and finally got my new one in December 2014! I hope they warranty it for you guys. In all my waiting I did a lot of reading on rotrex site. Found out the proper priming sequence. In Ohio still not enough snow to ride much but all the testing went well. Also learned more information on the mounting of the oil cooler according to there standards. Also did the catch can this time
Click to expand...


You'll have to share your wealth of knowledge on this catch can thing. I mounted the lines to the exact as the picture. Priming done to mpi but if rotrex different please share.
 
This is before initial start up. Rotrex states that once all of the lines are ran that you leave the Banjo bolt on the oil in mind just loose enough to allow to release the air and run a small amount of fluid out of it. Use an air hose set on a regulator at no more than 15 lbs and blow air into the oil tank until fluid runs out of the banjo bolt. Tighten the bolt down and your system is primed. It's so simple and yet I think that it's important in order to get the oil into the charger as soon as possible.
 
On my nytro I mounted an empty fuel antifreeze bottle beside my supercharger oil tank. Drilled a hole that would accept a 3/16 plastic union in the cap. From the inside I forced the union through the cap. It was a tight fit but assured me that no water would be able to get in. I then attached my vent line to the cap and screwed it back on. Now if there is ever a question or concern I just unscrew my cap and take a look.
 
Correct. As the oil gets hot the air expands as well as the oil. This then goes into my catch can which has plenty of room for air expansion. I got the idea of a guy that installs them in Quebec I think it was. I'll let you know how it works after my first big trip of the year.
 
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