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My Apex GT Projector Headlight Retrofit (HID enabled)

steiner said:
You can also use a jumper wire to the Head fuse to activate the lights without firing up the sled.

Pics of that little trick here

Good idea.

What I did was drive my sled outside and aim it at something to perform the cuttoff alignment. This isn't something you can easily do inside your garage where your sled was last parked and where you were working on it. So using the jumper trick with the sled indoors may not be ideal for cuttof alignment. You'll probably be firing it up and driving it someplace nearby to perform cutoff alignment with the intended results.

You want to be min 25-30 feet away from a vertical object like your garage door, or exterior building wall. For the cutoff alignment, the further you are away from your target object (within reason) the easier it is to level your cutoff. I did't empahsize that earlier.

If you can't just drive outside and onto the snowmobile trail like I can :Rockon: you will want to get your machine outside and point at your garage door or side of your house or similar object to perform the cutuff alignment.
 

Another photo of horizontal cutoff. If you don't take care in aligning your projectors before sealing up the headlight housing, your cutoff will look crooked and fugly.

5130c8e5ab5af0efcaea8b35be077009.jpg
 
SIKEWARD said:
35w or 55w hid bulbs?

I already had ballasts for a 35 watt application so that it what I used.

If you do use 35 watt ballasts and bulbs you will reduce the net current draw on the stator coil as compared with the stock halogen bulbs.

Using 55 watt equipment will yield a net increase in current draw vs. stock halogens and could potentially shorten the life of your stator coil.
 
I'm getting ready to order the parts for this mod. Did you have any problems with the $10 bulbs? Should I order spares? Not knocking them, it just seems like a really low price for hids.
 
Anyone gone black all the way with this?
 
guardrail said:
I'm getting ready to order the parts for this mod. Did you have any problems with the $10 bulbs? Should I order spares? Not knocking them, it just seems like a really low price for hids.

No problems for me. The bulbs work fine I picked a set of $10 backups just in case I were to have to incur a warranty claim and have to wait a few days for free replacements.

Be sure to post how your project goes! This is a great mod and really refreshes the look of an Apex.
 
Well I'm making progress on my mod. The only thing that I did different was I added red led angle eyes. U can't see them at all when the headlight is on but when the hid are off the look cool. I'll get pictures of them up when I have everything completed.

The part I am struggling with is the clocking. I used all the excate same parts but for some reason one side is lower than the other. So I literally have two cutoff lines. What am I missing. I quit working on it because it was getting late and I didn't want to piss my neighbors off with a running sled. Then I read about jumping the fuse. I'll be using that trick tomorrow night. Love this forum.
 
Clocking specifically has to do with the horizontal levelness of the beams. If the two cutoffs are parallel, then you have the clocking correct. When I mounted mine, I needed to play with the projectors to bring the two cutoffs in to the same plane. I found that the silicone washers that came with my kit made aligning the beams difficult, so I removed them and all I needed was a minor adjustment to one of the projectors to get them even. By far the best mod for the money I have done.
 
Properly clocked projecters should produce a cutoff that looks similar to this example photo.

DSC_1266.jpg


You will see 2 separate lines on a correctly clocked set of projectors. That is because the the high beam shutter that creates the cuttoff is "stepped" as shown in the photo below. This is done because this lights are built to be adapted to cars for highway use (right hand drive). This stepped shutter provides for a slightly lower light cutoff for oncoming drivers on your left and a slightly higher cuttoff for signage or other highway features to your right.

img4411.jpg
 
There we go. I got them lined up last night. But not without injury though. The night before I was able to get the lines parallel but one line was lower than the other. I gave up because of the time and running my sled after 10.

Last night I was out. First I did the headlight fuse bypass trick mentioned earlier. That worked great not having to start the sled. I loosened the nut holding it all together and was able to get everything perfectly adjusted. Near the end I was using a screwdriver inserted into the fuse, it fell out grounding itself to the reverse lever. I quickly pulled the wire off the positive terminal burning the sh... Out of my hand. I have got a nice burn line going across all four fingers. No need to worry though the sled is AOK.
 
:Rockon: Great!

Did you get your pod back into the oven and sealed up too?

SIKEWARD said:
There we go. I got them lined up last night. But not without injury though. The night before I was able to get the lines parallel but one line was lower than the other. I gave up because of the time and running my sled after 10.

Last night I was out. First I did the headlight fuse bypass trick mentioned earlier. That worked great not having to start the sled. I loosened the nut holding it all together and was able to get everything perfectly adjusted. Near the end I was using a screwdriver inserted into the fuse, it fell out grounding itself to the reverse lever. I quickly pulled the wire off the positive terminal burning the sh... Out of my hand. I have got a nice burn line going across all four fingers. No need to worry though the sled is AOK.
 
Ok so I put the headlights in and they work. But I can't get the high beams to stay on. My hid ballast has a high low that I wired to the projector.when I push my hi beam button the high beams flash on for just a second then go back to low beams. What am I missing?
 


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