My Phazer MTX Turbo Project Log

[DigitalFusion]

looking good!

when i converted my 09 rtx into an xtx rear suspension i used a kimpex kit for adding wheels and axle to an older enticer suspension that i modded to go in between the rails instead of the outer wheels. it held the plastic off of the floor about 1/4" and the slider wear looked good at the kick up the last time i looked at it. without them i bet you will wear through.

I am curious about this. I dont want to sink any more money into this skid to be honest, but I am open to ideas. I thought about adding the wheels that normally go on the front of the rails to the inside where that x-bar is, but thought that having the crossbar was more important. and am ASSuming the wear will hit a certain point and just stop?

 

[DigitalFusion]

Minor update on some very small steps in the right direction tonight. I completely removed the mounting bracket from the turbo, started cutting and hacking, and am on my way to a better mount

 

[maim]

I am curious about this. I dont want to sink any more money into this skid to be honest, but I am open to ideas. I thought about adding the wheels that normally go on the front of the rails to the inside where that x-bar is, but thought that having the crossbar was more important. and am ASSuming the wear will hit a certain point and just stop?

Well after the slides wore through on that spot on my apex xtx in that spot with wheels, I was reluctant to run without anything there. To me it did not matter if they were on inside of rail or outside as long as they where there. Here is a pic with skid 1/2 in sled.

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/rtx-to-xtx-conversion.150848/

I cannot remember what I cut off of both ends but I did get the holes in the end of the shaft re sized and tapped to match the holes in the rails. Here is part # I used from royal distributing but it is available from any kimpex dealer shaft # 04-429-04 and then I used 2 kimpex wheels # 04-116-95p. Just missing the snap rings to hold in place on shaft

 

[DigitalFusion]

I finished tacking up the turbo bracket as best I could with a possessed welder. There must be a short somewhere inside the line or gun, because the wire would randomly start feeding even without me pulling the trigger, and wouldn't feed when I would pull it. As you can imagine this made it very difficult. I did the best I could and then I ran it over to my buddy where he was able to weld it up. While he was doing that I cut a notch into the intercooler, and he tig'ed that up as well.

I wrapped the sides and bottom of the new Deka battery with some DEI battery wrap, and got the turbo and battery installed.

The Four Stroke Solutions ROV kit came with a nice blinking red LED to alert you when the system is activated. However, I also wanted to try tapping into the OEM knock sensor somehow and put that warning somewhere very noticeable. I picked up a couple of matching LEDs, one in red for the ROV kit, and one amber for the possible attempt to show the knock sensor warning someday in the future, and added some holes in my POD display mount. I left space to spare in order to accommodate either a skinny toggle switch, or more LEDs in the future as I have a few other ideas floating around in my head. I added a few coats of satin black paint, and tested out the ROV kit warning light.

Taking @maim's comments into consideration, I flipped the wheels that would normally be outside the rail to the inside, and cut the stock cross bar down.

I picked up a set of scratchers to combat overheating and hyfax wear on those hard-packed trail rides from the trail head to the off-trail play time.

The fuel tank received another couple of layers of reflective insulation.

For the first time since October, I was finally able to hear it run! I looked forward to check the display when I realized it wasnt even there, which is why I shut it off immediately and started looking around for it at the end of the video.

 

[DigitalFusion]

I have a lot of tuning to do. I contacted every tuner Dynojet lists on their site near me and all of them said the same thing; I am pretty much on my own, and I need to turn on the autotune/datalogging and go out and tune it myself. I contacted @Srxspec to see if hauling this thing over to South Dakota to get tuned is something I can afford to do, and could even be done before our trip. At this point I assume that is just too short of a timeframe and out of my dwindling budget.

In the meantime, I made some forward progress. If I am going to be stuck with trying to do the tuning myself, I need to get the machine movable. The clutches it came with were horribly dirty, It took hours and hours of scrubbing and 5 cans of brake cleaner to get them tolerable. I have a new Gates CF belt, as well as a brand new OEM belt for a back up, that I need to wash before I can install one of them

I ended up picking up a Nytro tail light months ago because once I removed the taillight from the shroud, I saw it was cracked. The Nytro tail light came with the trim ring, which worked out perfect to mount it to the rear of the tunnel. I plan to run the wires in the tunnel in some conduit and pop up under the seat.

A friend stopped over the other night and we make a quick disconnect seat with some 1/4" x 1.75" pins. This will allow me easy access to the PCV usb that I ran back near the fuel pump, which I intend to throw a USB cover over. The orange string is just a test to see what options we had for keeping the pins from being lost. I ordered up some 1/8" stainless cable, crimps, and a crimping tool to make some permanent keepers

I was going to cut the plastic over the tank to mount the Hallman Pro (ceramic ball) MBC. My buddy had a better idea. We installed it under the POD. Also pictured is a cheap Powermadd handlebar bag I picked up a while back. I am waiting on vacuum lines that I ordered before I can finish the connections.

Since I cant wrap up the boost controller until the vacuum line arrives tomorrow, I aligned the skis, greased the skid, and then was actually able to move on from my "to-do" list, to my "nice-to-haves" list. I mounted the headlight flares/wind deflectors I ordered a long time ago. Not only are these things actually functional, they really give the Phazer a much more aggressive look IMHO.

 

[DigitalFusion]

With the boondocker kit having the oil can located under the intercooler, priming the oil pump is a pain! Considering there is a chance that the pump could loose prime, which would cause me to have to remove the intercooler to prime, I contacted Four Stroke Solutions and @Mtnviper let me upgrade my kit from the standard version to the Premium version with the ROVCM and Quick Prime features. Being able to just hold down a button to prime the oil pump is invaluable to me. If any others out there are considering a ROV kit, dont make the same mistake I did. Just order the Premium version with Quick Prime the first time around.

While I am waiting for the Quick Prime kit to arrive I tackled a few small items. I got out to the shop late tonight, but was able to get the tail light fully installed. I was wavering on what I wanted to do for routing the wires, but I ended up just picking the in-tunnel option. I had some light, thin gauge aluminum tubes from an old screen tent that worked well. I riveted some hose clamps to the tunnel, tossed a thin coat of black on the tubes after cutting them to length and drilling holes for the rivets to poke down into, extended the tail light wiring with some solder and heat shrink, and I can finally say the tail light is done.

I was also able to finish all the vacuum lines, including the boost controller. After which I scrubbed the belts, ran them through the dishwasher, and installed the Gates belt and belt cover.

I just have to figure out tuning and clutching. For now, I put the primary and secondary that came with the machine back on. The primary appears to have SuperTips weights in it. I think I am going to order a clutch kit for the other primary and secondary, Im not sure who/what to go with though.

For tuning, I contacted a few places hoping someone could tune this thing for me since my 'guess-and-check' option is becoming less and less of a possibility with each day that passes. We leave for Togwotee in 10 days! Ulmer cant get it in until after our trip, and every place I contacted all said the same thing. Either take it to Ulmer or get out on the lake and start tuning it myself. Its starting to look like the later will be my only option.

Push Turbo never did send me that sample map, and wont return my calls or emails. The bikeman sample map for the rzr only gives me a very rough reference of what they do for those particular machines. I guess I will just start shooting in the dark and see what I can come up with.

 

[DigitalFusion]

Does anyone have any thoughts about how to seal off the areas highlighted in this image? It seems that these areas would just pack with snow, eventually melt, and turn the phazer into an ice block, as well as potentially get into the clutches. I was thinking about picking up some door/window gasket material to seal between the cooler and the frame rails, but I am not too sure about what to do for the large gaps around the intake area.

I'm open to ideas

 

[DigitalFusion]

I still have no idea what to do about those giant gaps. I'm guessing that no one else does either, or maybe the site activity died between Tom having to kill Tapatalk and the season coming to an end?

The upgrade kit for the Four Stroke Solutions ROV came, which was the last thing I needed to be able to put the sled completely together and switch gears to tuning and clutching. The push button quick prime, along with the ROVCM seems more than worth the upgrade price. I had to chase a few small coolant and oil leaks from loose clamps and a cut hose, but other than that everything went fairly smoothly.

I created a basemap to start with the tuning. It was a nice warm day here in MN so it was perfect to open up the garage door and fire up the sled. I connected the PCV to the tablet, loaded up the map,and gave a it quick rev-through prior to taking it out on the lake to do some tuning. Thats when I experienced another set back. The 02 sensor is shot. It refused to move from 14.8 no matter what settings I loaded into the PCV. Plus, the exhaust smelled like it was too rich. 14.8 isnt exactly rich. Maybe its the Torco, but it just didnt smell right.

The replacement for the wideband 02 for the AutoTune module is just a Bosch 17205, which can be bought online all day for 60-80 bucks. However, I was running out of time so I called a few local auto parts places to see if I could get one sooner. The soonest I could get one was the next day, but it set me back $115! At least it has a 12 month warranty.

While I was waiting for the 02, I installed the mounts for the tail bag and made some keepers for the quick release pins on the seat out of some stainless cable and crimps. Then, I played around with some under seat storage options for the 24oz bottles I ordered for the Torco (what I need for 96 octane in a 7 gallon tank of 91)

When the new sensor came in on Saturday I got it installed and was able to see that I was actually sitting around 12'ish for AFR at idle. I made a few revisions to the map via autotune with the rear of the sled on a saw horse. I took it for a drive around the back yard, which was the first time I have ever even drove the sled. According to the PCV, I was only able to hit 2lbs of boost in our small 1 acre yard but it was still a blast to drive.

My daughter told me later that she heard me ripping around back and forth in the yard and stepped out on the deck and tried to get a video of it to snapchat to her friends. I guess she wasnt too happy that she missed me gettin' after it a bit

I tried to take it out on the lake near our house, but I only made it half way there before the TORS kicked in and the display was flashing codes 42 and 84. I limped it back home and pulled up the codes (no speedo sensor and TORS). After checking the speedo sensor I saw that the bolt had backed itself out and the sensor gear was completely gone. I stole one from the 08, and got it back together again (this time with some lock tite) before dinner. After dinner it was already dark so I didnt try and get back out to the lake. Thats where I left it. Today we had an avalanche training course that 8 of our group attended. Then I took the wife and kids out for dinner and a movie, so I wasnt able to do anymore with it.

 

[Mtnviper]

Looking good Tom
Not sure what to do with the gaps other then maybe some Gorilla tape as a temporary solution. It wouldn't be pretty, but it may keep the snow out for your trip until you can come up with a more permanent answer.
Possibly fabricating some small panels out of aluminum or Black plastic. Either way, it sounds like a good summer time project at this point!
Bill

 

[Macheater]

Hey DF the machine is looking GREAT! Sucks that you're having those PITA setbacks. Here's a couple random thoughts.
Is that a phazer secondary on there? Sure looks like it. It probably will not stand up to the power of the turbo for very long.
I agree with Mtnviper about fabing some aluminum or plastic covers for the area in question. It might help if you could post a pic of that side of the sled with all the pieces in place (headlight, plastic, ect).

I just rode my 09 RTX for probably the last time this season and was thinking about how fun it would be if it was force fed. Need to replace the stock track (sucks) first. If I could ever find an MPI kit for a reasonable price I would probably jump on it.

 

[DigitalFusion]

The sled came with an extra secondary. The PO said he thought it was off of a SRX.

I havent had time to dig into it yet.

 

[mysledblows]

It runs Nice work!! I've been meaning to swap the newer secondary into ours but haven't gotten around to it. Maybe this summer. As for those gaps, I've yet to have any problems with snow getting into them. Obviously your results may vary, but she's had it in 50 degree mashed potato snow, feet of real snow, and everything in between without any issues from snow ingestion in those gaps.

 

[kallholmen]

The SRX secondary is probably a better choice. Might need some machining though. The C-clips in the original can break. I'm running a secondary from a v-max.

You're right about killing Tapatalk made this forum slow. Unfortunately.

I would buy som clay an make moulds for glass fibre to seal of gaps. Or just seal it of with mesh and Velcro tape.

 

[DigitalFusion]

I guess I will take it on this trip as-is, packing plenty of tape and see how it goes and decide what to do about those gaps later. I am much more concerned about my clutching and tuning situation right now, with clutching being my utmost concern. Worst case, I can go out there and spend some time with the auto tune getting it dialed in a bit closer.

The clutching kinda has me freaking out. I didn't replace the secondary circlip with a new one after taking it apart to clean, and while trying to research the SRX secondary, I ended up coming across so many posts saying the stock clutch circlip HAS to be replaced and can let go causing all sorts of damage. I dont know how I missed that, but I have never seen anything about it before. Now I am even more anxious about this sled.

We are loading up tomorrow for the trip. I am going to try and see if my local dealer has this in-stock. I was going to try and put the SRX secondary on, but there are just so many unknowns with it right now that I don't have time to research (helix size, was it machined correctly, can I use the phazer spring since there isnt any one in there now, what wrap for the mtx, etc).

 

[kallholmen]

The C-clips CAN break on a stock machine as well. I actually can't see why higher horsepower would make any difference for the performance of the clips? If I was in your position I would pack the other stock secondary to (you had two, right?) and just go. I've heard that Yamaha made some improvements on the plastic clips over the years but how and when I don't know.
Change to a safer setup when there's time.