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Need to move mono shock c-clip

mbw919

Pro
Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
185
Location
Charlevoix, Michigan
I finally had a chance to ride some trails last weekend and found that my '06 Vector GT is bottoming the rear suspension a little more that I think it should. I'm about 225 with riding gear and have the spring adjusting collar in the 7th position. The clip is in the stock (first) groove and I want to move it to the next position. I've seen ReX's post where he used a bearing seperator and spring compressors.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=34671

Unfortunately, I don't have these tools (yet) and wonder if anyone has another idea for doing this without removing the shock. I could probably fabricate something but wanted to check here first. Anyone near Charlevoix, Michigan with the right stuff?

My dealer would charge me to remove the entire skid frame to make this adjustment. Too bad this wasn't part of the initial setup. :o|
Maybe they're just afraid to ask people how much they weigh. :dunno:
 

If you go 225lbs with gear, you should have the "Big Boy" spring on the shock. I think that will solve your problem. Yamaha recomends the spring change for guys over 200lbs.
 
Thanks for the reply. Where is it that "Yamaha recommends the spring change for guys over 200lbs."? I do not doubt you. I just haven't found this in my owner's manual or service manual. Was it in a service bulletin perhaps? The owner's manual does state that "The rear suspension spring preload can be further adjusted by changing the position of the spring seat." The mechanic at my local dealer recommended moving the clip instead of using a heavier spring. What are the pros and cons of adding more preload to the stock spring versus installing a stiffer spring?
 
My son had the dealer change the "C" clip on his Apex to the third position and now finds it too stiff. He is going to change to the center position now. In the Jan. Sno Tech it states that Yamaha says not to change to the Big Boy Spring unless your over 260 lbs. My son weighs about 240 lbs. and finds the third spot too stiff with stock spring. I personally believe that the only answer for smooth ride on stutter bumps is Hygears 2 stage spring change.
 
mbw919 said:
I finally had a chance to ride some trails last weekend and found that my '06 Vector GT is bottoming the rear suspension a little more that I think it should. I'm about 225 with riding gear and have the spring adjusting collar in the 7th position. The clip is in the stock (first) groove and I want to move it to the next position. I've seen ReX's post where he used a bearing seperator and spring compressors.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=34671

Unfortunately, I don't have these tools (yet) and wonder if anyone has another idea for doing this without removing the shock. I could probably fabricate something but wanted to check here first. Anyone near Charlevoix, Michigan with the right stuff?

My dealer would charge me to remove the entire skid frame to make this adjustment. Too bad this wasn't part of the initial setup. :o|
Maybe they're just afraid to ask people how much they weigh. :dunno:


Isn't the 06 GT a mono shock? I didn't know that the spring seat had a C clip adjustment also. I am running my spring at 7 but I adjusted the shock compression to help with bottoming out. With gear I weigh about 215. I only bottomed out once this season and I have rode some bad trails. Which were out of Gaylord on a Saturday night which tells anyone from Michigan how bad they were.

To change a spring seat C clip you are going to have to remove the rear shock(on a mono shock) and disassemble the spring from the shock. I would just follow the service manuals directions for removing the rear skid. Sometimes you can do this without taking the whole skid out but I am yet to try it on a Mono shock setup sled. Then it is just a matter of moving the spring and changing the location of the C clip and reassembling. We actually cut grooves in shocks at work to get trim heights correct without changing springs rates. I would say this is a better way to stop bottoming out as you are sticking with a spring that has the right rates for your sled. The big boy springs are probley a lot higher rate which in turn will make the sled ride rougher.

Jeff
 
I thought of another question: After I move the clip to the second groove, will step one on the adjusting collar give more preload on the spring than step seven with the clip in the first groove, or is there some overlap of these settings? I will probably be able to measure the spring compressed length before and after but was just curious while waiting to borrow or buy the necessary tools.

:rocks:
 
I would think that a small spring compressor would allow you to make this adjustment right in the sled. And yes there is some overlap on spring preloads.
 
mbw919 said:
Thanks for the reply. Where is it that "Yamaha recommends the spring change for guys over 200lbs."? I do not doubt you. I just haven't found this in my owner's manual or service manual. Was it in a service bulletin perhaps? The owner's manual does state that "The rear suspension spring preload can be further adjusted by changing the position of the spring seat." The mechanic at my local dealer recommended moving the clip instead of using a heavier spring. What are the pros and cons of adding more preload to the stock spring versus installing a stiffer spring?

The spring change was recomended by Yamaha when a number of guys on this web site had the same problem. Maybe ,now they are backing off of this position. I havent heard anyone say anything different. My dealer would have made the adjustment for me without charge. I think yours should do the same. After all, the sled should be set up for you and your riding style. Every dealer that I have dealt with in my 30+ years of riding has done the same for me. ;)!
You dont have to remove the skid to remove the shock. With the sled on a stand or by lifting the rear of the sled. It can be removed by just dropping the rear arm, with support under the track. You will also have to disconnect the control rod on either end, I disconnect the rear, for easier instalation. Also, dont forget the adjuster on the side of the tunnel. It will have to be removed also. There is a procedure to remove this ( disconnecting it from the shock ) and I dont know it. It may be posted some place on this site but I dont know. I do know that there is a LOT of pressure on that spring. The guys in the shop at my dealer say they use ratchet straps to compress the springs. They said 2 straps, one on each side. Good luck in what ever you decide to do.
 
Got 'er done!

Thanks for everyone's input! :rocks:
I got impatient yesterday and spent a whole $30 on a pair of McPherson strut compressors at the local NAPA store. I didn't have a bearing spreader like ReX suggested in his post, so I could only compress a little less than half of the spring's length. Otherwise the hooks of the compressor would have pinched inward on the shock body. It was enough to get the clip in the second groove, but not the third. Anyone needing to get to the third groove would need to do something like ReX did here:

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=34671

Why didn't I think to take a picture while the spring compressors were in place?? :dunno:

Again, thank you to all who responded. Sharing of information in forums like this one of the things I appreciate most about the internet.
 
This is all great information being a 200 lbs rider. I have used rachet straps before when removing and installing rear springs on cars.

So did you use the procedure above of just dropping the rear half of the suspension to get to the spring?

I would guess the overlap goes to the 4th sitting. If I decide do this I will take some measurements and give everyone the information I come up with.

Jeff
 
BigJeff said:
This is all great information being a 200 lbs rider. I have used rachet straps before when removing and installing rear springs on cars.

So did you use the procedure above of just dropping the rear half of the suspension to get to the spring?

I would guess the overlap goes to the 4th sitting. If I decide do this I will take some measurements and give everyone the information I come up with.

Jeff

I did this with the shock and skid in place. Just raised the rear of the sled a bit to make it easier to work on. I don't think there's a lot of overlap. Going from the 7th cam position with the clip in the 1st groove to the 4th cam position with the clip in the 2nd groove compressed the spring about 1/4" more. We got at least 6" of fresh powder last night and this morning so I feel absolutely obligated to ride it to work this afternoon and test it.
 
Good deal. I thought that the shock had to be removed in order to make this adjustment.
 


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