New (2012 used) Apex Owner With a Couple Questions.

[Thunder66]

First let me say how excited I am to have a sled again after a 3 year sabbatical. I owned a really sweet 2001 SRX for a few years with all kinds of good mods and loved it but sold it and left left sledding for a while. This website was invaluable while I had that sled and I am looking forward to being here a lot learning about my new to me 2012 Apex. It is the base short track model and in really good shape with 4000 miles on it. I have been reading the posts about Apexes for the last week and have already learned much.

Q1 I had no idea about the problematic shock rebound adjuster cable until I was under my sled after bringing it home and discovered it to be broken. I am debating whether to bother with replacing it and leaning towards doing so just so I can easily dial the rebound in for me after I start riding it this winter with the thought of pulling it back off later and just capping the shock fitting once I set it to my liking. I read a few posts where people mentioned updated cables and even a little key to reach in and adjust on it. What is the consensus here on what to do about it? Is there a way to make it live in the long run?

Q2 What other wear items should I take a close look at beside the obvious like hyfax and carbides, what things are less obvious but should be inspected on a 4000 mile Apex? Speaking of the hyfax can they be judged while on the sled or do I really need to yank them out for a close inspection?


I am unbelievably excited to have this beast in my garage. I will be riding it a lot on lakes here in Michigan along with occasional trips to Cadillac and Mio and Paradise. Let it snow!

Thanks!

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Congratulations on the new to you sled.

Q1 I don't know of any way to stop the cable from breaking so I removed mine. I made a adjusting knob to attach in place of the cable which works but a pain when you get ice build up.

Q2 Take a 10mm wrench to check the total thickness of the slider, if they get to that point anywhere on the slider replace. If you put on the dupont sliders they should last a long time. I run over sized wheels with the ski-do 2 bolt mounts and I've got 6,000km on them and are still good. They wear like crazy for the first 2/3 of the thickness and then stop wearing.

 

[YammyRX1]

$4000 for a low mileage 2012? That's a smokin' deal, congrats. I put the mono skid in my RX-1 and really never felt the need to adjust the ride so after a couple of broken cables I just left it and will replace if I ever go to sell it.

 

[whitedust1]

IDK I like to change settings with changing conditions and really miss my olin EC change on the fly. My bud had the side adjust on a Rage & it never broke & he also like to change soft to hard. The key to the Attak EC control was to cable tie it to the max & I never broke it in over 10,000 miles when I traded it in on an Apex XTX.

 

[Winderallday!]

At that mileage I would automatically replace slides with Duponts regardless of the shape of the stockers, especially if you are going to do a lot of lake running, no sense wrecking a sled trip with shredded hyfax.
Larger diameter wheels like Excells or wheel lowering mounts if you can find them, help make the dupont slides last and last.
If it were me, I would yank the suspension and go over it, check all the wheel bearings, pivot bushings and needle bearings, grease them up well.
While you're that far into it, I would also get the mono shock serviced and re-valved to your weight and riding style, makes a big difference imo. It will take some time to dial this rig in to your liking, so be patient and do one change at a time.
Check and change oil if needed, dump chain case oil and replace it. Pick off bearing seals, and re-pack speedo side drive axle bearing, and jack shaft bearing behind secondary.
Adjuster cable should be replaced until such time you have the mono dialed in to your liking. I rarely if ever change mine now that I have it set up the way I like it, so if the cable goes again, I likely won't replace it either.
One more thing, expect to chit your pants when you squeeze the flipper on this Apex for the first ride, and good luck wiping the grin off your face!
Cheers.

 

[Thunder66]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

@ YammyRX1, no I didn't buy it for $4000! Lol! I wish! But I think I got a good deal on it, it is very clean and was owned by someone that was good with maintaining sleds.

@ Apexallday, I did plan on changing the oil (engine and chaincase) and filter for sure. Didn't necessarily plan on taking the skid out but you make a compelling case and after reading about stud clearance and the tunnel protector rail c brackets collapsing somewhat I think I will tackle it so that I can do a thorough job with everything under there. I am totally with you on the slides and I am a long time motocrosser who only lives a couple miles away from my suspension guy and he does plenty of sled stuff in the fall/winter so you have convinced me to do that also. Does anyone ever change springs based on weight and ride height on sleds? I'll admit that the rear suspension on these things does have me perplexed a little bit I will read up on the larger wheels and relocation kits ( I don't normally like to try to outsmart the engineers and designers but it does seem like the hyfax can be problematic on these sleds from what I have read recently). I rode an Apex (first gen) a couple years back on Secord Lake in Gladwin MI and instantly fell in love with the motor and just how solid and effortless the sled felt.

@Tbaysledhead, thanks for your advice also!

 

[YammyRX1]

@ YammyRX1, no I didn't buy it for $4000! Lol! I wish! But I think I got a good deal on it, it is very clean and was owned by someone that was good with maintaining sleds.

Sh*t I read the mileage and thought it was the price- sounded too good even with the US exchange rate!

 

[Phatboyc]

If its the same as pre-2011 manual cable shock adjuster you can just turn the shock around. Bring a screwdriver with scare head and you can adjust it before ridding (before ice built up).

When I bought both my sled used, the cable was broke on the manual but ok on the electronic cable. I zip tied both cables as much as I can and keep an eye for ice built up. Never failed since.

 

[Winderallday!]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

@ Apexallday, I did plan on changing the oil (engine and chaincase) and filter for sure. Didn't necessarily plan on taking the skid out but you make a compelling case and after reading about stud clearance and the tunnel protector rail c brackets collapsing somewhat I think I will tackle it so that I can do a thorough job with everything under there. I am totally with you on the slides and I am a long time motocrosser who only lives a couple miles away from my suspension guy and he does plenty of sled stuff in the fall/winter so you have convinced me to do that also. Does anyone ever change springs based on weight and ride height on sleds? I'll admit that the rear suspension on these things does have me perplexed a little bit I will read up on the larger wheels and relocation kits ( I don't normally like to try to outsmart the engineers and designers but it does seem like the hyfax can be problematic on these sleds from what I have read recently). I rode an Apex (first gen) a couple years back on Secord Lake in Gladwin MI and instantly fell in love with the motor and just how solid and effortless the sled felt.

@Thunder66: Changing mono-shock spring is probably not required unless you are a large man (280 lb+ or so), some guys are using alternate dual rate springs, and Barn of Parts offers several spring options as well.
I run about 230lb dressed, and I seldom if ever bottom out, and the ride height is perfect imo. There are three shock spring adjustment collar positions on the shock body that increase pre-load tension on the spring/skid, I have mine set to the second clip position.
I would say ride it in various conditions and see how you get along then decide next steps.
Oversize wheels are not a must have, as the Dupont slides wear like iron compared to stock.

Cheers.

 

[TRUE BLUE SINCE 1980]

If its the same as pre-2011 manual cable shock adjuster you can just turn the shock around. Bring a screwdriver with scare head and you can adjust it before ridding (before ice built up).

When I bought both my sled used, the cable was broke on the manual but ok on the electronic cable. I zip tied both cables as much as I can and keep an eye for ice built up. Never failed since.

Zip Ties are Key . when you think you have too many, put on a few more. (sorry typo fixed)

 

[ranger1]

Congrats on your new to you Apex!!!!!!

 

[Phatboyc]

Zip Ties are Kay . when you think you have too many, put on a few more.

Not sure what Kay means but your right.

Also I use UV stabilize zip ties usually available only in black (which is good). I made the mistake of buying them at the dollar store once and tried using them when it was just -5C. As soon as I was pulling them tight they were breaking up. Not good!

 

[titanrcr]

First let me say how excited I am to have a sled again after a 3 year sabbatical. I owned a really sweet 2001 SRX for a few years with all kinds of good mods and loved it but sold it and left left sledding for a while. This website was invaluable while I had that sled and I am looking forward to being here a lot learning about my new to me 2012 Apex. It is the base short track model and in really good shape with 4000 miles on it. I have been reading the posts about Apexes for the last week and have already learned much.

Q1 I had no idea about the problematic shock rebound adjuster cable until I was under my sled after bringing it home and discovered it to be broken. I am debating whether to bother with replacing it and leaning towards doing so just so I can easily dial the rebound in for me after I start riding it this winter with the thought of pulling it back off later and just capping the shock fitting once I set it to my liking. I read a few posts where people mentioned updated cables and even a little key to reach in and adjust on it. What is the consensus here on what to do about it? Is there a way to make it live in the long run?

Q2 What other wear items should I take a close look at beside the obvious like hyfax and carbides, what things are less obvious but should be inspected on a 4000 mile Apex? Speaking of the hyfax can they be judged while on the sled or do I really need to yank them out for a close inspection?


I am unbelievably excited to have this beast in my garage. I will be riding it a lot on lakes here in Michigan along with occasional trips to Cadillac and Mio and Paradise. Let it snow!

Thanks!

You should also give the EXUP cables a look. At that mileage there is a very good chance the cables are out of adjustment or broken. It's very common and something that should be checked annually.

 

[Millinocket Rocket]

Yes, definitely adjust EXUP cables....where are you guys actually zip-tying the RA cable?

 

[Thunder66]

Thanks again everyone. Was definitely planning on examining the EXUP cables and adjustment.