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New 2020 LTX GT

Joined
Oct 12, 2014
Messages
104
Age
39
Location
Monroe County Norwalk WI
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2020 Sidewinder LTX GT 2015 Apex XTX
Bought a new 2020 LTX GT. Got it for 13,250. Still not cheap, but way better than a spring order price.

Tossing around the idea of I-Grip screw in studs. Would like any feed back on guys with miles on these studs. Ideally I wanted to buy a pre studded track. But they only come in a one ply. We dont intend on racing corner to corner or on ice. We do not want studs. Mostly just want added safety for braking or coming up on an icy corner. Couple friends have sidewinders and they are sneaky fast and smooth. You dont realize how fast you are going till you look down. Just want to know how many I-Grips you guys have installed and what pattern you used. Has the track held up with them installed? Do they seem to perform as good as a prestudded track with the bonus of 2 plys? What part number of screw in stud is the correct one for the ripsaw 2? What is a good price for the studs and where is the best place to get them? Will be going to haydays if there is better deals to be had there. Will be adding tunnel protectors if I add them. I know Mr Sled has some in his sled but I have not seen any comments on them after he has had miles on it.

Next question is what do I need to do with this sled out of the box to keep it reliable. Will have a stock tune. Planning on keeping the clutching stock unless it eats belts. We do ride fairly hard. But will not be doing a lot of riding past 90mph. We normally put on 3,000 miles a year with good snow. So with that being said I keep reading all of the failures and what to look for and how to fix it. As we will not be riding it to its max potential i feel some of these issues we should not have. I know i want the added belt guard to protect the plastic. Any input from guys that ride the same style and know what needs to be done to keep it reliable would be appreciated.

The sidewinders in the local area still have tuner skis on them. Wife and I thought they handled okay for us. But the steering was heavy. As it should be compared to my 15 Apex with PS. Talked with Travis at BOP. He suggested snow trackers as we ride 95% on trail. He is very confident in the lighter steering with the snow trackers on the tuner skis. And if that's not enough to add his MPS kit. I trust his opinion! What I am wonderimg is how they do in low crappy snow conditions? Lately our snow not been that great in our local area. Lots of riding in minimal snow conditions. Also do these snow trackers make it harder to load and unload sleds? Any input on them is greatly appreciated!

After I got my sled home I inspected the rollers on the secondary. Two rollers are solidly against their ramps. The third does not contact the ramp at all. Sled has 0 miles on it. Is this something warranty will address? In the past I could never get Yamaha to fix anything on their clutching. Only sled I had issues with was our 15 phazer xtx. On the phazer it would do 55 mph top speed and hammer the rev limiter from brand new. Ate belts every 300 miles or so. And the second year the secondary fell apart. Not covered by stock warranty or YES as it's a wear item. So if this is the same case and not covered what do I need to do to resolve the issue.

Thanks!
 

Don't worry about one roller not contacting, it's not an issue, it will contact after its ridden some miles. There's always at least one even two.
You'll need the BOP Shaft saver, and PUT IT IN WHEN ITS NEW!
Then weld the chain tensioner roller screws so that don't leave you stranded. ALWAYS run tensioner bolt 1.5 turns out from finger tight.
Those are the must haves. MPS is awesome for easy steering along with SnowTrackers.

Every season when chainging chaincase oil check the top sprincket bushing for wear. Ride like the wind! Enjoy the machine!
 
-I Grip - I have never run them, but would be cautious. i know people that had them come loose and puncture heat exchangers.
-up date secondary rollers - call turbo dynamics
-Chaincase sight glass - on first service use high temp silicone on inside and outside to seal it in.
-Chaincase tensioner - on first service make sure roller bolts aren't backing out. To be sure have them tack welded.
-install BOP drive shaft saver to keep drive shaft from spinning on caliper bearing.
-install BOP cross shaft - it strengthens it.
-install BOP tunnel protectors - reinforces side of tunnel mounting area where cross shaft bolts through.
-install BOP coolant hose protectors up inside the tunnel.
-install rear tunnel protectors - I used hyfax from a ski doo sled that fit in the slot
-throw roll over valve away, and run a good quality hose in a loop up towards steering column to footwell area. Also don't need to worry about cleaning intercooler with oily goo in the future as it vents out by your foot.
-keep an eye on oil tank seal. Just expect it will start leaking. Easy to fix, but is easier in off season to do it.
-change turbo bolts to good ss hex heads and throw the crappy torx away.
- check all hoses- coolant and oil, diaelctric grease all connections and relays. Also check the frame bolts and turbo mount.

That is pretty much all the little things that will end your day. Do all that and you will have a pretty robust machine.
Congrats! This all sounds painful, but these sleds are a blast to drive.
MS
 
For me, the first things I do for the 3 powersports plus a boat, including the new 2020 S-TX, is subscribe to this forum, get the read owners service manual, buy a set of consumables (oil), get any sled SST's (Special Service Tools), buy a Yamaha cover, and most important establish and manage a yearly maintenance schedule to include work done, work to be done (like the comments above) , and track popular p/n's. I manage the powersports maintenance in oneNote SW.
 
Overall I am happy with semi agg. sno trackers for the tuner skis on my SRX but have found that they do pick up rocks and trail crap in low snow "snirt" conditions. When this happens it's a pain to remove by yourself. I am interested in how the new ski works out.
 
Get pilot skis and be done,best thing ever as it helps greatly with steering!!
 
Amazing what you have to do to a $13K USD sled to make it reliable.

iGrips - put them on my Viper. In my opinion they are better than nothing for traction on icy surfaces. They certainly get you moving faster and stopped faster than having nothing but are in no way a substitute for studs. I ended up studding mine as well. I did loose a few this season (1500 miles). Luckily the Viper doesn't have a rear heat exchanger.

If I recall I put in 194 on my 1.25 Ripsaw II 129. ST24R model. Drill a pilot hole first with a 1/16" drill bit. At the shows they are usually a buck a piece.
 
I understand that the I grips will never replace studs. Just want the added safety. And do not want studs. My wife and I have rode some of the local sidewinders. Everything is so smooth the speed sneaks up on you. And the stock clutching lacks the 'Jake Brake' on my apex and her phazer. We rarely use the brakes with those clutches as it holds back so well. We will get used to the sidewinder. Just be a bit safer with some added gription.

$1 a piece seems spendy! Hopefully I can find them cheaper! Was hoping for $.50

I was wondering if the snow trackers would pick up rocks and branches. My tuners have gotten rocks caught in them too. I love the tuners on my apex. The db chassis works well with them in my opinion.

Thanks for all of the advice on what to upgrade and check on to keep it reliable. I know some guys have terrible luck with their sidewinders. The 3 local sidewinders all have over 4,000 miles on them and have never even changed a belt. Just serviced and drove. So they can be fairly reliable. As we put on about 3,000 miles a year snow permitting. And some of our trips are in northern MN in the middle of no where I like to keep everything in good working order. I work on trucks all week long. Last thing I want to do is break down and work on a sled on my time off!

Looks like the snow is done where we ride. Going to be a long summer waiting for it to snow again!

Thanks again for your help and input!
:beer:
 
Damn - thats a good price on a GT! Well done. Im picking up a 2020 SE tomorrow for 12,999 and Im happy with that. Im gonna anti seize the exhaust bolts and install the BOP wedge immediately before doing anything. Then either snowtrackers or pilot skis depending on the cost.
 
I have pilot single keel race skis AND aggressive snowtrackers. Along with BOP MPS arms set on the #2 setting and I'm extremely happy. WAY easier steering than any of my old Ski-Doos ever could imagine. The doos gave me issues with my elbows and shoulders.

Excellent price on the GT and the SE both.
 
So, my new 2020 sled is siting at the dealer (new trailer coming) and based on several TY posts I asked the dealer what they thought of welding the chain tensioner roller screws (I don't weld, figured if the sled was sitting there maybe they could...) and they said "Yamaha now Red Loctites the bolts now"

I'm a sled newbie, but Mercury (Mercruiser) recommends red loctite by number 222, 277, etc. on certain boat engine Inboard/Outboard (I/O) screw threads.
 
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So, my new 2020 sled is siting at the dealer (new trailer coming) and based on several TY posts I asked the dealer what they thought of welding the chain tensioner roller screws (I don't weld, figured if the sled was sitting there maybe they could...) and they said "Yamaha now Red Loctites the bolts now"

I'm a sled newbie, but Mercury (Mercruiser) recommends red loctite by number 222, 277, etc. on certain boat I/O screw threads.
When I did my first service on my 2020 just shy of 800km I removed the chain tensioner to get it tac welded, I put the tensioner in a vice and couldn’t loosen the roller screws with a 18” ratchet handle so I left them a lone, will be opening up chain case soon to inspect.

I think your dealer is right and Yamaha is putting something on the bolts.
 


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