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New skid installed! Pics! (*UPDATED*)


I think you can change the shock to the upper side just by removing the single bolt that holds the rear spring guide on each side. Might take two people as its under tension. I've looked around in mags, and on the internet, can't find one M7 suspension with the shock in that lower position. May make no difference at all but suspect it does. Let us know what you do. Man, our snow is hard as a rock right now. I'm thinking of putting my sway bar back in.
 
Thanks for the post. We are going to get that shock turned around on Tuesday just in case. Thanks for pointing that out guys. I forgot about the sway bar, I may have to disconnect that when I go riding to see how it does.
 
Definitely flip that around, I think I read that it could damage your track....really easy to do..just lift the back of the sled pretty high, undo the bolts that hold the main spring and let hem rotate down and around. You can then run the suspension through its stroke and get it back on top. Then put the spring bolts back in. Easy. Looks good though. I just reread a number of the posts earlier this year we all put up about the skid and it made me think back to the days before this skid.....what a different sled I have now. Himarking 800 rmk's, hanging with a lot of other sleds, good in deep snow. Also, I think it is AS GOOD AS MY WIFE'S 05' PROACTION ON THE TRAILS...WITHOUT A DOUBT!! You will love it.

Rt
 
trxster, does your M7 skid have a lot of travel? What are the shocks set at? I noticed that it is supposed to have like 17" of travel but it takes a heavy guy to sit on it to get 2" of travel. is that a result of the shock being in the wrong position?

Edit - it will be changed around as soon as possible. I looked at the track where the shock may hit it, and there is no apparent damage, nor is there anything that shows the shock hit the track at all. i was NOT riding anything bumpy today. it was all deep snow so perhaps the track didnt have bumps to hit the shock or the shock to get pressure to hit the track.
 
so when you say the bolts that holds the rear spring on, are you talking about the 2 bolts that hook on to the drop down brackets that are connected to the upper wheels?
 
No, I mean the bolts that actually have the spring slide through...when you release those, it lets out all of the tension in the spring. That allows you to put the rear assembly through its range of motion. I can't recall if you need to remove the bolts that go into the drop bracket or not. I think you can flip it without removing those. Anyway, I have my front shock at hard and the rear shock at medium. I feel like I have plenty of travel and it does well on the trail. Of course, I don't ride that much trail so that isn't too important but the angle of attack is.

I like to be able to break trail in stuff like this......this is actually on the way back out but I broke it all the way in through the trees in almost 3' of snow. No way I would have done that last year!!!
 

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is the spring so tight that if i undo it, i wont be able to get it back into the bolt holes or is it really not that tight?
 
It is long enough where it is not bad at all. Plenty of leverage. Just hold onto it as you are unbolting and let it spin around.

Aaron
 
well i got it fixed. The shock was on so tight that the head of the bolt was bending instead of turning out. So i decided to take the rear brackets off and see if it will give me more room to work if the sled is lifted up more. I got the back of the sled lifted about an inch higher than the brackets and BOOM the shock went up into the right spot.

So now that the shock is there, i lowered it back down and oh so nicely the brackets didnt match the holes anymore. the whole thing moved back a bit. So after drilling new holes, it is back together and looking great. I will need new mounting brackets because the bolts right now are too close to the edge for my liking

how does it look now?
 

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