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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing

Been busy and have not been able to update.

I had an old worn 14 viper shaft and a brand new of the latest shaft tested.

The old shaft was 47 Rockwell C where bearing rides and 20 in the center where drivers sit

The new shaft was 61 Rockwell C where bearing rides and 27 in the center where drivers sit.

Both shafts were the same alloy steel.

Based on this the new shafts are certainly harder. Have not done any research to see what the hardness of bearing races typically are. May just have one tested as well to compare against the new shaft.
Case hardened or just heat treated where the bearing goes? Im thinking maybe older shafts can be heat treated and made harder on the fit, since they obviously did something to make it 47R...hmmmmm
 

Travis, thanks for doing that testing! Nice to see the hardness is right up there! I'm still thinking it'd be best to run a shaft saver however for a long term fix.
 
Hardness of the shaft doesn't address the fit issue, it just helps avoid the disaster. I will still run the shaft saver.
 
Hardness of the shaft doesn't address the fit issue, it just helps avoid the disaster. I will still run the shaft saver.
I agree for sure and am still going to encourage saver until we see long term what results from the harder shafts spinning in the race.
 
Tks for the update on test
I was sure my 22 ltx shaft was definitely harder than my 21 srx & 18 50th . As the spring point tool I always use wouldn’t hardly mark the 22 at all .lol .
 
Every new Procross should have the left bearing removed and clean the assembly lube cleaned off the inner race and shaft before the it's ever ridden. I also put a thin coat of RTV on the shaft and race to give it a bit of stiction.
Just Imagine the first ride, cold thick grease in the bearing, thin lube on the smooth shaft/inner race. Highly likely the shaft spins in the race because of less resistance vs the thick cold grease in the bearing. It's all down hill from there. I also used the BOP shaft saver (love the products) at 0 miles. At the end of last season (2,200mi) I split the caliper to inspect and add some grease to the bearing....all is well.
 
Every new Procross should have the left bearing removed and clean the assembly lube cleaned off the inner race and shaft before the it's ever ridden. I also put a thin coat of RTV on the shaft and race to give it a bit of stiction.
Just Imagine the first ride, cold thick grease in the bearing, thin lube on the smooth shaft/inner race. Highly likely the shaft spins in the race because of less resistance vs the thick cold grease in the bearing. It's all down hill from there. I also used the BOP shaft saver (love the products) at 0 miles. At the end of last season (2,200mi) I split the caliper to inspect and add some grease to the bearing....all is well.
If you have the original China bearing & a ntn bearing side by side , it’s not the grease that’s the main problem , it’s the seal drag on the China bearing that horrible. Take the seals out they both spin about the same .
 
I'm not saying the grease or the seal is the problem, when this sled is assembled they put assembly lube one the drive shaft to make it ez to assemble. The extra lube allows the shaft to spin in the inner race right from day 1.
Both of my new procross had assembly lube(oil) on the shaft.
 
I just had a shaft done there this week, and now it's $160.
Seemed a little steep.
I may just opt for new shaft next time as my other guy is having some minor health issues.
The guy that first had shafts built up here a few years ago was just charged $220 for one....:oops:
Makes no sense to have old ones repaired anymore with the tests showing new ones to be harder and the 2023 shaft is $213 CAD from Yamaha.
Buy a new shaft and put the BOP wedge in, should never have an issue again.
 
If you have the original China bearing & a ntn bearing side by side , it’s not the grease that’s the main problem , it’s the seal drag on the China bearing that horrible. Take the seals out they both spin about the same .
I have a few questions on this topic. I installed the BOP shaft saver within the first 50 miles - so I am expecting the shaft to look good when I disassemble and check it next month. The questions are:

1) While I have the caliper and disk off - should I replace the stock OEM bearing with the FAG 6009 shown on BOP website - in the hopes of getting a proper interference fit? (I would still use the shaft saver).
2) And what about the bearing on the chain-case side of that shaft. Should it be replaced as well and if so - with the FAG 6009 as well?

Appreciate any help - like to have the parts on hand once everything is opened up.
 
I have a few questions on this topic. I installed the BOP shaft saver within the first 50 miles - so I am expecting the shaft to look good when I disassemble and check it next month. The questions are:

1) While I have the caliper and disk off - should I replace the stock OEM bearing with the FAG 6009 shown on BOP website - in the hopes of getting a proper interference fit? (I would still use the shaft saver).
2) And what about the bearing on the chain-case side of that shaft. Should it be replaced as well and if so - with the FAG 6009 as well?

Appreciate any help - like to have the parts on hand once everything is opened up.
I work on quite a lot of these machines, Vipers, T-Cats, Winders and 7000's.
I have yet to see a bottom shaft stock bearing failure on one.
 


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