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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing

hibshman25

Vendor
Joined
Sep 25, 2005
Messages
2,856
Age
40
Location
Lebanon, PA 17042
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2017 sidewinder ltx dx
2018 snoscoot
Starting in 22, driveshaft was rumored to be improved. My 22 did not appear to be, and I have seen at least one 22 shaft that was eaten up by bearing. The 23's have a new part number and all the 14-22 shafts appear to supersede to the new number. These updated -10 shafts were in stock so I had my dealer order one. I have access to some metallurgy testing at a relative's local foundry and I'm planning to have it tested to see what material the new shaft is as well as have hardness testing done. I have a junk shaft from a 17 sidewinder being tested as well so its apples to apples comparison from same lab. Will post my findings.
 

That is awesome Travis.
I was the guy that reiterated a Yamaha rep from head office - stated the shaft was now upgraded and made from harder steel.
Lets see if he was speaking the truth.
MS
 
I just changed my track on a 23 srx and this one was the loosest fit yet, lots of slop. Hopefully I just got a bad one.
 
I changed my track on my 23 SRX and it was the best Ive seen on these sleds .002-.003 clearance on the bearing my 21 got a replacement shaft and it was .009 to start. Ill keep my eye on it this winter to see if it doesnt get worse. I don't run a driveshaft saver.
 
I changed my track on my 23 SRX and it was the best Ive seen on these sleds .002-.003 clearance on the bearing my 21 got a replacement shaft and it was .009 to start. Ill keep my eye on it this winter to see if it doesnt get worse. I don't run a driveshaft saver.
I will be curious to see if your 23 resists wear with no measures taken to prevent it.

This morning I put a driveshaft saver in the new shaft. At 20 ft lbs it was starting to put some drag on the bearing when I tried to slide it off. 25 ft lbs it was snug and I could hold the drive shaft by the bearing. This is right in line with all previous shafts I tested. I really think if the shaft is harder it should take some more torque/force to expand it. Bearing still falls right off this new shaft so the tolerance has not been changed.
 
Torque on saver would change with fit of bearing on shaft for this test.
I have a "2020" shaft and run 65 ft lbs torque on my saver. It works with a new shaft and has not spun yet. Just replaced bearing this year.
I have your worn shaft new bearing on shelf for a backup in the event shaft gets worn.
Keep up the great work!
 
I will be curious to see if your 23 resists wear with no measures taken to prevent it.

This morning I put a driveshaft saver in the new shaft. At 20 ft lbs it was starting to put some drag on the bearing when I tried to slide it off. 25 ft lbs it was snug and I could hold the drive shaft by the bearing. This is right in line with all previous shafts I tested. I really think if the shaft is harder it should take some more torque/force to expand it. Bearing still falls right off this new shaft so the tolerance has not been changed.

I tend to agree. If that was harder steel the shaft wouldnt repsond until much higher torque settings ie 50lbs
MS
 
I will be curious to see if your 23 resists wear with no measures taken to prevent it.

This morning I put a driveshaft saver in the new shaft. At 20 ft lbs it was starting to put some drag on the bearing when I tried to slide it off. 25 ft lbs it was snug and I could hold the drive shaft by the bearing. This is right in line with all previous shafts I tested. I really think if the shaft is harder it should take some more torque/force to expand it. Bearing still falls right off this new shaft so the tolerance has not been changed.

If it is hardened, its probably just the surface (case hardened). Hard to imagine that they substantially changed the manufacturing process itself this late in the game. A true hardened driveshaft would be a lot more expensive to manufacture.
 
I don't care how hard it is, it won't fix the problem. Only way to permanently fix problem is to have bearing and shaft "attached" to each other somehow so they always spin together.
 
I don't care how hard it is, it won't fix the problem. Only way to permanently fix problem is to have bearing and shaft "attached" to each other somehow so they always spin together.
I think we are all on the same page here. The shaft needs the BOP saver, but if it was hardened, the expansion saver might not be the best choice as a hardened shaft will be less ductile and you may have to go to the new BOP solution so its worth finding out.
 
Can anyone tell me if all the shafts from 2017-2022 are bad and need a saver, does anyone have a good shaft...ok, no jokes please lol
 
Can anyone tell me if all the shafts from 2017-2022 are bad and need a saver, does anyone have a good shaft...ok, no jokes please lol
They all have a fitment issue. All need a saver. The only question now is with the newer part numbers - which saver. Travis may have his own opinions since he has access to both the new and old style shafts.
 
They all have a fitment issue. All need a saver. The only question now is with the newer part numbers - which saver. Travis may have his own opinions since he has access to both the new and old style shafts.
ok, I have already have had maintenance done this year, next time the sled gets opened up I will put the new saver on. It seems the new saver is better than the older one. I was supposed to go to Lebanon Pa but I got Covid. Next trip there I will pick one up at BOP.
I have just heard that not all the shafts are bad and need a saver. Joe
 
Can anyone tell me if all the shafts from 2017-2022 are bad and need a saver, does anyone have a good shaft...ok, no jokes please lol

I am pretty sure they all suffer from the same illness - crappy tolerances. They are going to let the shaft spin, its just a question of time.
To answer your question- that 'saver' should be put in from day 1.

Even if you drove the sled like a grandma, they will eventually spin.

MS
 


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