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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing


I intentionally rode my 23 riot for 1700 miles with no shaft saver. Dissaembled everything to take a look and not a scratch on bearing or shaft but it showed evidence it had spun as I had a small groove developing on rotor. Cleaned up easy with a file. Bearing fits on shaft better than I have seen from my previous models but still slides on……just a closer better fit. Since it was apart I used shaft saver to test and Bearing is locked solid on shaft at 22.5lbs of torque with saver, no way to remove without a puller. So initial impression is shaft should hold up much better than previous years but obviously rotor will groove if it spins. For reference on my 20 xtx the shaft was welded and turned down on lathe to proper fit at 2000miles. My 22 had shaft saver from new and new owner said everything was good when he disassembled
 
justinator said:
I intentionally rode my 23 riot for 1700 miles with no shaft saver. Dissaembled everything to take a look and not a scratch on bearing or shaft but it showed evidence it had spun as I had a small groove developing on rotor. Cleaned up easy with a file. Bearing fits on shaft better than I have seen from my previous models but still slides on……just a closer better fit. Since it was apart I used shaft saver to test and Bearing is locked solid on shaft at 22.5lbs of torque with saver, no way to remove without a puller. So initial impression is shaft should hold up much better than previous years but obviously rotor will groove if it spins. For reference on my 20 xtx the shaft was welded and turned down on lathe to proper fit at 2000miles. My 22 had shaft saver from new and new owner said everything was good when he disassembled
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No one wanted to ask you to be the guinea pig.....so thanks. ;)
 
74Nitro said:
I work on quite a lot of these machines, Vipers, T-Cats, Winders and 7000's.
I have yet to see a bottom shaft stock bearing failure on one.
Click to expand...

I had my buds sled in here at the start of the season that neglected the stock bearing, it was completely gone at around 6500 miles or so I believe. Took out the disc, pads, shaft and caliper - all of it had to be replaced. Bought a complete used brake assembly from eBay and I happened to have a spare shaft assembly in the shop to get him going.

A little grease every season goes a long ways if you ride many miles! Thus the reason I pull all seals and re-grease all the bearings including the suspension every fall. They will never go bad doing it this way. I seen nothing wrong with the stock Peer bearing, but do agree the NTN bearing may be better quality. IMO all the sleds should have the BOP shaft saver to prevent damage right from mile #1 if possible, at least get one in the first chance you can.
 
KnappAttack said:
I had my buds sled in here at the start of the season that neglected the stock bearing, it was completely gone at around 6500 miles or so I believe. Took out the disc, pads, shaft and caliper - all of it had to be replaced. Bought a complete used brake assembly from eBay and I happened to have a spare shaft assembly in the shop to get him going.

A little grease every season goes a long ways if you ride many miles! Thus the reason I pull all seals and re-grease all the bearings including the suspension every fall. They will never go bad doing it this way. I seen nothing wrong with the stock Peer bearing, but do agree the NTN bearing may be better quality. IMO all the sleds should have the BOP shaft saver to prevent damage right from mile #1 if possible, at least get one in the first chance you can.
Click to expand...
Agreed. We've been getting winters that don't allow for good miles racking up. It's good to inspect that bearing when the miles come and either grease or replace. I am surprised how much better it lasts than the former Yamaha's with that small bearing and no moisture protector seal.
 
hibshman25 said:
Starting in 22, driveshaft was rumored to be improved. My 22 did not appear to be, and I have seen at least one 22 shaft that was eaten up by bearing. The 23's have a new part number and all the 14-22 shafts appear to supersede to the new number. These updated -10 shafts were in stock so I had my dealer order one. I have access to some metallurgy testing at a relative's local foundry and I'm planning to have it tested to see what material the new shaft is as well as have hardness testing done. I have a junk shaft from a 17 sidewinder being tested as well so its apples to apples comparison from same lab. Will post my findings.
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Travis, what is the Cat part number ingraved in this new test shaft?
 
I just purchased a new updated drive shaft and here is the number on shaft.

axle.PNG
 
How long are they gonna continue the procross anyway? They have a new chassis for both the 600 and 880 that’s coming in 2025. They’re never gonna keep this chassis for a couple of models. Run the precision shaft saver…. It’s cheaper….and be done with it.
 
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