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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing

C3 only refers to internal clearance (not interference) inside bearing. The way a C3 bearing is created is the ball size is selected such that there will be more internal "slop" for lack of a better term. So in a C3 bearing, the balls are a tiny bit smaller than in a standard fit bearing. C3 had nothing to do with size of ID or OD of bearing. Industry standard 6009 is universal meaning the ID is 1.772 and OD is 2.953 no matter what brand the bearing is.
I have run my 300HP TCat for 4 years now with both bearings pressed onto shaft. I had track shaft spray welded then ground to size. Zero problems w cracking, zero issues w shaft spinning in bearing. No cracks as you describe. No brake rotor wobble or pulsating.
Knappattack describes process of installing a shaft saver via "normalizing" process. He along with most others have been very successful using it.
Lastly, that pin & matching groove machining has been around I think for at least 3-4 years now from a machining company in Essex Junction. It works but eventually the pin will wear out.
 

If you feel you need a tighter fitting bearing just purchase a standard 6009-2RS bearing.
Cat Part# specifically calls for a 6009-2RS-C3. The C3 stands for Loose Internal interference. It’s so the drive shaft can float intentionally side to side inside the bearing. The negative part is sometimes it lets the ID spin on the shaft. I’ve been doing many hours of reading and research and what I’ve found is you don’t want to lock the bearing tightly on the shaft. I’ve read where guys are saying the 3 bolts for the caliper, the holes will develop cracks in the tunnel around the holes once you lock it tight on the shaft. This is just my opinion so take it for what it is.
I removed my Precision EFI Driveshaft saver from my ‘22 T-cat as no matter how many times I torqued it, lubed the threads and spreader segments and made sure it was seated in all the way it would cause a vibrations and slight grinding noise from the rotor/brake area at lower speeds. Once I removed it, it was quiet again so i left it out. My buddy also installed one on his ‘22 T-cat and his did the same noise and so he took his out also and no more noise. ‍♂️
I’m going a whole different route to allow the driveshaft to float side to side inside the bearing but will not let the bearing spin on the shaft.
I seen on one of the forums where a guy machined a groove in the inner part of the bearing and pinned the shaft so it allows the shaft to move if it needs to but doesn’t allow the inner part of the bearing to spin and wear the shaft.

View attachment 172451
It is my understanding that the C3 affects the internals of the bearing but not the ID of the inner race.
 
C3 only refers to internal clearance (not interference) inside bearing. The way a C3 bearing is created is the ball size is selected such that there will be more internal "slop" for lack of a better term. So in a C3 bearing, the balls are a tiny bit smaller than in a standard fit bearing. C3 had nothing to do with size of ID or OD of bearing. Industry standard 6009 is universal meaning the ID is 1.772 and OD is 2.953 no matter what brand the bearing is.
I have run my 300HP TCat for 4 years now with both bearings pressed onto shaft. I had track shaft spray welded then ground to size. Zero problems w cracking, zero issues w shaft spinning in bearing. No cracks as you describe. No brake rotor wobble or pulsating.
Knappattack describes process of installing a shaft saver via "normalizing" process. He along with most others have been very successful using it.
Lastly, that pin & matching groove machining has been around I think for at least 3-4 years now from a machining company in Essex Junction. It works but eventually the pin will wear out.
Thanks for the correction with the bearing.

IMG_1462.jpeg
 
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IMO using the driveshaft saver puts presser inside the shaft in spots but not evenly around the whole shaft which could cause vibration I believe..

There is no problems whatsoever utilizing a shaft saver when done properly. The problem stems from people not understanding how to normalize the bearing to the shaft when tightening it down. You can spell it out, but people with don't understand it or use the proper technique when installing. You dont just put it in and tighten.

The shaft needs to be turned multiple times when tightening things up BEFORE it locks itself on to the shaft crooked. If the bearing is crooked on the shaft, bad things happen. If it is straight and true on the shaft, then it works great with ZERO problems.

Some mechanics are parts replacers, and some have enough common sense to to actually get it right. To put it bluntly, I don't think enough people have the ability to get it right and do more damage than good.

A dial indicator on the caliper housing will tell you if the bearing is true on the shaft. There should be zero runout! If people don't understand this or need a video or pictures to get it right, they should probably not be attempting a shaft saver themselves.

Also, a shaft saver will not cause vibration if done properly and normalized.
 
There is no problems whatsoever utilizing a shaft saver when done properly. The problem stems from people not understanding how to normalize the bearing to the shaft when tightening it down. You can spell it out, but people with don't understand it or use the proper technique when installing. You dont just put it in and tighten.

The shaft needs to be turned multiple times when tightening things up BEFORE it locks itself on to the shaft crooked. If the bearing is crooked on the shaft, bad things happen. If it is straight and true on the shaft, then it works great with ZERO problems.

Some mechanics are parts replacers, and some have enough common sense to to actually get it right. To put it bluntly, I don't think enough people have the ability to get it right and do more damage than good.

A dial indicator on the caliper housing will tell you if the bearing is true on the shaft. There should be zero runout! If people don't understand this or need a video or pictures to get it right, they should probably not be attempting a shaft saver themselves.

Also, a shaft saver will not cause vibration if done properly and normalized.
Wow.. So what you’re saying is, if you purchase a driveshaft saver you need to put a mag base and dial indicator on the saver to check runout.. I guess many have missed that in the instructions from BOP & Precision EFI. Oh wait, there weren’t any instructions and PEFI’s video showed nothing about using indicators to install this. I guess as you stated some are parts replacer and don’t have the common sense to install it so they shouldn’t attempt it. Good to know.. Someone should tell BOP and PEFI to let their customers know they need to know how to read a dial indicator or last word to check the saver Or forget buying it.
People with no common sense need not apply..
Does that also include long haired freaky people?

And the sign said “Long-haired freaky people
Need not apply”
So I tucked my hair up under my hat
And I went in to ask him why
He said “You look like a fine upstanding young man
I think you’ll do”
So I took off my hat, I said “Imagine that
Huh! Me workin’ for you!”
Whoa-oh-oh

[Chorus]
Sign, sign, everywhere a sign
Blockin’ out the scenery
Breakin’ my mind
Do this, don’t do that
Can’t you read the sign?
hahahahaha
 
Wow.. So what you’re saying is, if you purchase a driveshaft saver you need to put a mag base and dial indicator on the saver to check runout.. I guess many have missed that in the instructions from BOP & Precision EFI. Oh wait, there weren’t any instructions and PEFI’s video showed nothing about using indicators to install this. I guess as you stated some are parts replacer and don’t have the common sense to install it so they shouldn’t attempt it. Good to know.. Someone should tell BOP and PEFI to let their customers know they need to know how to read a dial indicator or last word to check the saver Or forget buying it.
People with no common sense need not apply..
Does that also include long haired freaky people?

And the sign said “Long-haired freaky people
Need not apply”
So I tucked my hair up under my hat
And I went in to ask him why
He said “You look like a fine upstanding young man
I think you’ll do”
So I took off my hat, I said “Imagine that
Huh! Me workin’ for you!”
Whoa-oh-oh

[Chorus]
Sign, sign, everywhere a sign
Blockin’ out the scenery
Breakin’ my mind
Do this, don’t do that
Can’t you read the sign?
hahahahaha


Especially long haired freaky people need not apply!
 
The world is now run by long haired freaky people, but the hair has gone gray and what is left isn't nearly as long as it was 20 years ago.
 
Just a little over 4,000m on my 22 Tcat. just split the caliper to ck and lube the shaft bearing, all good. Disassembled on day 1, cleaned assembly of mating surfaces, applied rtv to the shaft and inner race, and assembled with the shaft saver. At this rate the bearing should last 15-20,000m. Not going to worry about it anymore.
 


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