Toolman
Extreme
Quick connects are ordered, Cooling system is all planned in my egg. Now I am onto the skis and suspension. I will start on the rear tonight. Should I remove the transfer bars? Should I just remove the suspension first or start working with it in the sled.(The last owner took the hyfax off the Minnesota way!! No damn snow!!) I have to take it out when I get a track, but I was wondering if I should leave it in for mock up purposes?
Thanks alot guys!
Thanks alot guys!
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- Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
I would pull your suspension when you get an asphalt track, and would just remove the bolts on your transfer rods, and remove the plastic washers from the top, and place them in the bottom. If you pull the transfer rods completely off, it will jump like a rabbit or wheelie way too much. Key is being safe while having fun. The skis will be close in height like the stock skis.
On y buddies we pilled the transfer rods completely off you.If you sucj up the limiter straps so the angle of the track is comming off the drivers parallel and tighten your rear shock it won't wheelie.The problem with the hoping comes from the front of the track being lower than the rear so it's acting like a pivot poing.If you get rid of the pivot poing it won't hop but if you go too high than you will sping.You have to find the happy medium spot.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks for all this great info so far. Are we going to be to hot to make the return trip to the pits for cool down? If so do we need to bring an ATV along as well for a tow back to the pits?
On the Apex has anyone got a safe tested way to lower the rear mono?
On the Apex has anyone got a safe tested way to lower the rear mono?
Toolman
Extreme
We watched Pinks last night and are now really revved up.
I get the idea about sucking up the front of the suspension, does it waste alot of E.T. when the front lifts, or does it stay pretty flat?
Watching the V-max4 he really seemed to some out slow, even though he hooked hard with lots of lift. Terry's sled seemed much flatter and quicker.
With the limiter sucked up in the front it won't droop, but what about the rear arm rocking and lifting?
Thanks again, its really sinking in now, The Pinks show was great advertisement, good job guys.
I get the idea about sucking up the front of the suspension, does it waste alot of E.T. when the front lifts, or does it stay pretty flat?
Watching the V-max4 he really seemed to some out slow, even though he hooked hard with lots of lift. Terry's sled seemed much flatter and quicker.
With the limiter sucked up in the front it won't droop, but what about the rear arm rocking and lifting?
Thanks again, its really sinking in now, The Pinks show was great advertisement, good job guys.
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
TurboJamie said:Thanks for all this great info so far. Are we going to be to hot to make the return trip to the pits for cool down? If so do we need to bring an ATV along as well for a tow back to the pits?
A lot depends on the track and where you are in the pits. If you have a wheeler, and someone to drive it, certainly go that route. Most times I don't have a problem and just drive back. When I ran the supercharger, it obviously created more heat and temps got higher. I've also been stuck behind someone going slow or if you have to stop the water temp will just continue to rise. Better safe than sorry.
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Toolman said:We watched Pinks last night and are now really revved up.
I get the idea about sucking up the front of the suspension, does it waste alot of E.T. when the front lifts, or does it stay pretty flat?
Watching the V-max4 he really seemed to some out slow, even though he hooked hard with lots of lift. Terry's sled seemed much flatter and quicker.
With the limiter sucked up in the front it won't droop, but what about the rear arm rocking and lifting?
Thanks again, its really sinking in now, The Pinks show was great advertisement, good job guys.
You need to have the front and rear working together. You can't just suck up the front or just tie down the back. Yes, lifting the skis will cost you in ET. So will spinning the track or not transfering enough.
A good starting point is to pull the front up slightly and then set the back so when you set the rear of the sled down, the entire track touches the ground at the same time. From there you can dial in your transfer and adjust the 'balance' of the sled. The best thing to do is try different combinations at the track. You'll lean a lot and what your sled likes. Keep good notes so you can go back if something doesn't work well too.
In the end everything works together....rear setup, front setup, clutching, etc. I've run setups that Terry had, and he's run some of mine. I think in each case we went slower because it is a total package makes it work. Any setup you get will have to be tweaked to get the best results.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks Monker!
I can't wait to get into this new sport it sounds like fun so we will see.
I can't wait to get into this new sport it sounds like fun so we will see.
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You will be amazed running down the track, it is a blast. The regular points racing is cool, but the real street drags and test & tune nights are by far the most enjoyable. These nights, you can do whatever, and still have a great time!
NOS-PRO said:You will be amazed running down the track, it is a blast. The regular points racing is cool, but the real street drags and test & tune nights are by far the most enjoyable. These nights, you can do whatever, and still have a great time!
You couldn't have said it better.It's even funner when you let one of your buddies take it down the strip that's never ran before to see there expression when they come back.
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- Joined
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- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder, SR Viper XTX, SR Viper XTX, 2016 Apex XTX and Pro-Line Pro Stock 1000
That is a PRICELESS moment!
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