New (to me) apex!

[Quince]

This all depends on your milage.. What is it? We can help you better this way. Take it as the mileage comes to save money and time. Ice scratchers are a must on these machines unless you have powder trails all the time and no hard pack or ice type. They'll save your Hyfax and cooling. A cooler should be added to prevent overheating but for now if you have scratchers you'r ok .But if you want the best all around cooling system/ice melter get one. Their easy to put in.
I mounted a set of cable scratchers up behind the real wheel in an existing bolt hole just had to drill out a bit for take the 3/8 cable mount bolt and get a longer Gr 8 bolt to make it into the cable mount were the arrow is. I didn't do the bushings until thousands of miles into the machine. A Yama heater is great but there are ways around it if money is tight. Gauntlets,wind breaks,mittens.
View attachment 105645

It's got just over 5 thousand miles. Ya I've seen those talked about tons on here as I've been searching Around. So that's where in that picture I'd mount it to help with cooling.

 

[CaptCaper]

6k miles.. I wonder if the exhaust was done? Donuts and or Ypipes? That's pushing for a OEM Attak. I wouldn't worry about the bushings now. Either steering or front end. The steering new has a bit of side to side play. The front components can be checked by jacking up the sled off the ground and leaving them hanging and then grabbing the arms and wiggling them. I didn't do mine until 8k and they were worn. The skid ones were done around 6 or 7 k when i had the skid out. If you ride hard you may want to look at a newer style w arm that is built up. I had mine beefed up by a vendor here but he doesn't do it any more. But I am a big guy 260lbs and didn't break mine with many thousands of miles on it but had it done anyway. I don't ride hard..back can't take it. If you ditch bang you may want to do these things sooner. Had surgery yesterday on it.. real good now or better anyway.
Yea...lot's of posts here on it. The cooler that is. If you have studs you have to find out what size and allow for protection. With Woody's recommend stud height for this machine of 3.125 you need a solid 1 1/2 in of protection over the cooler. Fabricated with 1' aluminum stock from Home Depot and an old Hyfax from yamaha does the trick. Tapered down to the area behind the upper wheels. The cooler goes in quick. You can get one reasonable on the web. Don't get used they run as much as a new one and who knows what kind of alignment or corrosion issues there are. I found for $75 more you can buy a new one. $325 is about what they go for now. I've done 3 of them on Attaks. Just did one this winter and all had to have protection. You don't have to drop the skid. I can take pictures within a few days to show you my Attak that I did a couple of years ago. The last one was a friends and by now it was easier to do like everything else.Practice makes perfect.
But the cooler is the first thing I'd do and did. Then studs with Woody's recommend pattern's tools and Gold Diggers which are the best. I put 9995 miles on the last Attak and the track was still great with these studs. The cooler got scraped with just 1 1/8 in of protection so bringing it up to 1 1/2 1 5/8 did the trick on all 3 of these machines.
I don't get email replies form TY for postings I subscribe so I'll check in once a day or so or pm me and see if that helps if you need more advice. Also the relay for the fuel pump is cheap and should be changed. Get the new Red solid state one. There is a posting on it in the Apex fourm here now.

 

[Quince]

6k miles.. I wonder if the exhaust was done? Donuts and or Ypipes? That's pushing for a OEM Attak. I wouldn't worry about the bushings now. Either steering or front end. The steering new has a bit of side to side play. The front components can be checked by jacking up the sled off the ground and leaving them hanging and then grabbing the arms and wiggling them. I didn't do mine until 8k and they were worn. The skid ones were done around 6 or 7 k when i had the skid out. If you ride hard you may want to look at a newer style w arm that is built up. I had mine beefed up by a vendor here but he doesn't do it any more. But I am a big guy 260lbs and didn't break mine with many thousands of miles on it but had it done anyway. I don't ride hard..back can't take it. If you ditch bang you may want to do these things sooner. Had surgery yesterday on it.. real good now or better anyway.
Yea...lot's of posts here on it. The cooler that is. If you have studs you have to find out what size and allow for protection. With Woody's recommend stud height for this machine of 3.125 you need a solid 1 1/2 in of protection over the cooler. Fabricated with 1' aluminum stock from Home Depot and an old Hyfax from yamaha does the trick. Tapered down to the area behind the upper wheels. The cooler goes in quick. You can get one reasonable on the web. Don't get used they run as much as a new one and who knows what kind of alignment or corrosion issues there are. I found for $75 more you can buy a new one. $325 is about what they go for now. I've done 3 of them on Attaks. Just did one this winter and all had to have protection. You don't have to drop the skid. I can take pictures within a few days to show you my Attak that I did a couple of years ago. The last one was a friends and by now it was easier to do like everything else.Practice makes perfect.
But the cooler is the first thing I'd do and did. Then studs with Woody's recommend pattern's tools and Gold Diggers which are the best. I put 9995 miles on the last Attak and the track was still great with these studs. The cooler got scraped with just 1 1/8 in of protection so bringing it up to 1 1/2 1 5/8 did the trick on all 3 of these machines.
I don't get email replies form TY for postings I subscribe so I'll check in once a day or so or pm me and see if that helps if you need more advice. Also the relay for the fuel pump is cheap and should be changed. Get the new Red solid state one. There is a posting on it in the Apex fourm here now.

Ya I was told all the updates were done like the w in the suspension for added support and the don't were done along with the suspension skid adjuster cable. And ya so for the cooler what exactly dose it do just give the machine more room to cool down its coolant?

 

[CaptCaper]

More coolant but the snow hits it as well as ice build up and makes a big difference. Also without the ice build up there giving many more pounds back there. Same effect as putting snow on the running boards.
Yami came out in 09 with them preinstalled even now. They knew at once what the deal was. Big motor and it doesn't take much.

 

[journeyman]

I bought a clean 2007 Attak GT last year that was only ridden in the UP of Michigan and always hauled in an enclosed trailer. It had 12,000 miles on it but was ridden around 50 mph normally being the owner only rode with his wife.

It came with YamahaHeaters, the rear cooler was installed and came with a tall and short stock windshield. He told me the exhaust donuts were recently done but the next time I think I will do the copper donuts. Don't let them go too far though, if the trumpeters end up cracking they are very expensive. The stock ones are titanium and they are $500 each (x4), but they do make stainless ones now that are $150 each. My primary clutch had grooves worn in the sheaves from riding at 50 mph constantly. I had the sheaves re-faced by a machinist and rebuilt all the bushings in the primary and secondary clutches. I installed a Pro-Line clutch kit that makes a huge difference but traction was an issue so I had a Ripsaw II put on.......big time traction improvement. For now I have the stock skis with Stud Boy 7.5" Shaper Bars. In the future I think I will get either the SLP Powder Pro skis or a set of Curve XS skis for better flotation and reduced darting. As for hyfax, the Duponts will last much longer than the stock units. Last week I lost the solenoid valve for the rear Ohlins shock, they are $270 new and from what I have been told usually last about 10,000 miles or so. The stiffer coil spring for the rear shock is a good idea if you weigh more than 200 lbs. I weigh about 205 lbs. stripped and I have to set my rear shock to it's max setting for trail riding. Mine also came with a 2" bar riser and the seat had 2" of foam added that looks stock which works for me being I am kind of taller.

I haven't tried this yet but some guys have installed the 13mm sway bar for better cornering. Another thing I keep hearing are the fuel controllers for better performance but the feedback I have got is poor fuel mileage with them.

On my previous 2 stroke Viper I had my machinist overdrive the primary sheaves and make spacers for the rear helix for opening further and it made for stronger acceleration and better top end. I might try that on the Attak if I get around to it but it will probably make me have to re-tune my wt. arms again.



Other than maintenance or ergo items that have been mentioned the two or three biggest gains will be a clutch kit and better traction and skis that don't dart or steer hard.

 

[steiner]

Wow that's awesome. What dose the rear cooler do? Sounds Iike I've some some nice mods!

Rear cooler helps a lot. One of the first mods I did to my 07 Attak. All the mods CaptCaper mentioned are excellent to do as well.
For pictures and a "how to" for the rear exchanger you can check how I did mine. You don't have to lift the rear tunnel like I did. I just wanted the most clearance that I could get.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/rear-heat-exchanger.108028/
You can also search around in the 4Stroke Garage for other mods and ideas for your sled.

 

[journeyman]

As mentioned mine came with a rear cooler installed. Not sure if the previous owner had heating issues or not. Another guy that was riding with us last week has the same machine as mine he bought from Pat's in Greenland also last season with just two thousand less miles than mine but has no rear cooler. It was cold up there all week with plenty of snow on the trails and his kept getting the warning light that the engine was hot but never an actual code or limp mode.

Another thing, I put a bottle of the Yamaha Med RX in the tank after I fueled up. Been hearing good things about the stuff. I noticed during that tank some crud came out of the exhaust a few times after starting up but the strange thing on the last day I had the warning light show I was low on oil but it was not.

 

[Quince]

Rear cooler helps a lot. One of the first mods I did to my 07 Attak. All the mods CaptCaper mentioned are excellent to do as well.
For pictures and a "how to" for the rear exchanger you can check how I did mine. You don't have to lift the rear tunnel like I did. I just wanted the most clearance that I could get.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/rear-heat-exchanger.108028/
You can also search around in the 4Stroke Garage for other mods and ideas for your sled.

Ya I just seen that very nice looks Iike a good job [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji108]

 

[Quince]

As mentioned mine came with a rear cooler installed. Not sure if the previous owner had heating issues or not. Another guy that was riding with us last week has the same machine as mine he bought from Pat's in Greenland also last season with just two thousand less miles than mine but has no rear cooler. It was cold up there all week with plenty of snow on the trails and his kept getting the warning light that the engine was hot but never an actual code or limp mode.

Another thing, I put a bottle of the Yamaha Med RX in the tank after I fueled up. Been hearing good things about the stuff. I noticed during that tank some crud came out of the exhaust a few times after starting up but the strange thing on the last day I had the warning light show I was low on oil but it was not.

Oh wow that's crazy. Ya where I am last week was minus 25 out riding and she was warm quite superising it needs something like that in such cold temps

 

[CaptCaper]

The Attak won't shut at running speed. At idle it will shut down. So beware. After the cooler is installed you should never see the light come on again.
I had Pilot 5.7's but didn't like them. In loose snow they wouldn't steer. Went back to OEM's with Woody's original duallys and I love them. I'm still not convinced on the price of new duponts. I get a season of 2400 miles here at least with my Yami Hi Performance for $34 a set. The duponts would have to last at least 4 seasons for them to pay off. It takes me all of 10 min to change out the old sliders when on my lift cart doing any maintenance or thawing inside my shop.

 

[journeyman]

My sled came with Dually's last year on stock skis. They did not dart at all but they did push allot in the corners. This year I put on 7.5" Shaper Bars. They turn better but do seem a bit more twitchy depending on conditions. When I had my new track installed last week I just had them put on OEM hyfax. My buddy has the Duponts but I guess I got cheap and didn't want to spend the extra coin. Was glad I didn't at the time after having to pay for the Ohlins shock repair two days later.

 

[Quince]

The Attak won't shut at running speed. At idle it will shut down. So beware. After the cooler is installed you should never see the light come on again.
I had Pilot 5.7's but didn't like them. In loose snow they wouldn't steer. Went back to OEM's with Woody's original duallys and I love them. I'm still not convinced on the price of new duponts. I get a season of 2400 miles here at least with my Yami Hi Performance for $34 a set. The duponts would have to last at least 4 seasons for them to pay off. It takes me all of 10 min to change out the old sliders when on my lift cart doing any maintenance or thawing inside my shop.

U mean the redight at start up. Or a high temp light when running? U didn't like the powder skis hey that's what I wanted to get for my sled witch is stock on that aspect cause I'm worried in powder that front end is HEAVY!

 

[CaptCaper]

U mean the redight at start up. Or a high temp light when running? U didn't like the powder skis hey that's what I wanted to get for my sled witch is stock on that aspect cause I'm worried in powder that front end is HEAVY!

I mean you shouldn't see the high temp light at running with a rear cooler in most conditions.It will run cooler always. The start up light (Red) will always come on when starting first thing of the day. Always wait if you can for it to go out before you move out.
When your running on a trail and the yellow light comes on pull over and put snow on the running boards. But with a rear cooler this problem shouldn't happen only once in a blue moon. Like going very slow on a very warm slush type day maybe. Or no snow at all for a long time.
In powder the Pilots aren't good I found and read someone else felt the same. I'd try OEM's with Woody's duallys..first. I like them. Made a difference in the wifes Vector LTX as well.

 

[journeyman]

I have a set of Dually's and will say they didn't dart but if you are a somewhat aggressive rider like myself they will push in the corners. Now I have Shaper Bars and they are opposite, carve corners well but can be a bit twitchy on the straights. New skis are in my future.

 

[Quince]

I mean you shouldn't see the high temp light at running with a rear cooler in most conditions.It will run cooler always. The start up light (Red) will always come on when starting first thing of the day. Always wait if you can for it to go out before you move out.
When your running on a trail and the yellow light comes on pull over and put snow on the running boards. But with a rear cooler this problem shouldn't happen only once in a blue moon. Like going very slow on a very warm slush type day maybe. Or no snow at all for a long time.
In powder the Pilots aren't good I found and read someone else felt the same. I'd try OEM's with Woody's duallys..first. I like them. Made a difference in the wifes Vector LTX as well.

Alright sounds. Good. The only problem is with my stock skis are seems there they don't grab but there is tons of carbide under them. Witch is weird. So I think I need to adjust my suspension a bit due to the previous owner being 160 and me 230 lol