Newbie to Winders, just bought a '17

[bzktm8]

Hey guys, lots of great posts and videos for chain case and engine oil change. I just bought my first Sidewinder last month. I previously rode an RX-1. I am surprised how many issues there are with this sled. I wanted to give it once over to make sure to be off to a good start. Then I read the issues list... was this a mistake to buy? It's a 2017 137" with only 2k miles and I searched for a long time to see if anyone posted if the chain case cover and oil tank can removed together WITH the lower belly pan still installed? The videos I watched always show the sled without the belly pan.

 

[DennyTuna]

I searched for a long time to see if anyone posted if the chain case cover and oil tank can removed together WITH the lower belly pan still installed?

Never tried it but, I'm sure it can be done. Gotta believe dealers leave the lower pan intact when servicing these sleds.

Then I read the issues list... was this a mistake to buy?

There are a couple of things that need addressed to make them extremely reliable trail sleds. Tack weld the bolts on the chain case adjuster skate and install a drive shaft saver. Hard to say how much wear you have on your driveshaft so I would recommend BOP's newest version of his driveshaft saver.

 

[bzktm8]

Never tried it but, I'm sure it can be done. Gotta believe dealers leave the lower pan intact when servicing these sleds.

There are a couple of things that need addressed to make them extremely reliable trail sleds. Tack weld the bolts on the chain case adjuster skate and install a drive shaft saver. Hard to say how much wear you have on your driveshaft so I would recommend BOP's newest version of his driveshaft saver.

Thank you DennyTuna! I now see the newer driveshaft saver with the collar for shafts that have wear. It looks like a larger version of the idler bearing on the old RX. Strange this design wasn't the initial fix. I also see the top gear upgrade recommendations include the brass fork pads. Do you agree these should be changed? I will tack weld those screws on the adjuster. I haven't opened the case yet, but did check the tension adjuster which almost 3 turns out. I don't believe the original owner ever had it adjusted. Hopefully there won't be a problem.

 

[bzktm8]

Thank you DennyTuna! I now see the newer driveshaft saver with the collar for shafts that have wear. It looks like a larger version of the idler bearing on the old RX. Strange this design wasn't the initial fix. I also see the top gear upgrade recommendations include the brass fork pads. Do you agree these should be changed? I will tack weld those screws on the adjuster. I haven't opened the case yet, but did check the tension adjuster which almost 3 turns out. I don't believe the original owner ever had it adjusted. Hopefully there won't be a problem.

What is the best method for removing the original driveshaft bearing from its housing?

 

[DennyTuna]

I also see the top gear upgrade recommendations include the brass fork pads. Do you agree these should be changed?

Some have left the OEM plastic shift fork pads in and never had issues, my group has made the switch to brass along with the DMC gear upgrade and have had zero issues since.

I haven't opened the case yet, but did check the tension adjuster which almost 3 turns out. I don't believe the original owner ever had it adjusted. Hopefully there won't be a problem.

Yep, never touched. I would think it would be OK with the low miles on the sled. Set it correctly and run it.

What is the best method for removing the original driveshaft bearing from its housing?

Only one way, remove the caliper. There are 3 bolts on the inside of tunnel that hold the caliper in place. On the chain case side remove snap ring holding bottom gear. Once its all free push track up to clear drivers from track cogs, slide shaft towards caliper side, once it clears chain case housing it's out. I have not installed one of BOP's newer savers but I'm thinking you don't have to remove the driveshaft for this install. Maybe someone who has will chime in.

 

[bzktm8]

Thank you DennyTuna! I now see the newer driveshaft saver with the collar for shafts that have wear. It looks like a larger version of the idler bearing on the old RX. Strange this design wasn't the initial fix. I also see the top gear upgrade recommendations include the brass fork pads. Do you agree these should be changed? I will tack weld those screws on the adjuster. I haven't opened the case yet, but did check the tension adjuster which almost 3 turns out. I don't believe the original owner ever had it adjusted. Hopefully there won't be a problem.

What is the best method for removing the original driveshaft bearing from its housing?

Some have left the OEM plastic shift fork pads in and never had issues, my group has made the switch to brass along with the DMC gear upgrade and have had zero issues since.

Yep, never touched. I would think it would be OK with the low miles on the sled. Set it correctly and run it.

Only one way, remove the caliper. There are 3 bolts on the inside of tunnel that hold the caliper in place. On the chain case side remove snap ring holding bottom gear. Once its all free push track up to clear drivers from track cogs, slide shaft towards caliper side, once it clears chain case housing it's out. I have not installed one of BOP's newer savers but I'm thinking you don't have to remove the driveshaft for this install. Maybe someone who has will chime in.

I meant to say removing the bearing from the caliper housing. Can this be done on the sled or does it need to be removed and the brake bleed after reinstalling?

 

[DennyTuna]

Sorry about that, I miss read your original question. It can be done on the sled, it's been a minute since I replaced a caliper side bearing. Dang, I gotta think a minute or two on how I did this. If it comes to me, I'll get back on and post.

 

[STAIN]

You can do it without taking it off BUT I take it off when I do them. It is just easier.
you will love this sled, it is a big upgrade from the RX-1's
They really don't have any more issues than the RX-1's or Apex's, just different ones.

 

[Bigblue1]

What is the best method for removing the original driveshaft bearing from its housing?

I meant to say removing the bearing from the caliper housing. Can this be done on the sled or does it need to be removed and the brake bleed after reinstalling?

CHeck FAQ. Totally Yamaha video shows you how to do it without taking caliper off.

 

[justinator]

Personally I am not a fan of the brass shift fork pads. I have used them before but now I stick with oem. I believe if you use one of the dmc or prevost or precision efi etc bushing replacements for the top gear and service your chaincase regularly you will not have issues with shift fork pads. If an oem pad breaks it wont cause any damage in the case if it gets chewed up in there. If a brass pad were to break it could wreak havoc on other parts in the case. Ive owned 2 winders and 2 riots totalling 15,000+ miles and never had an issue with fork pads.

 

[fatchance]

I personally wouldn't break the caliper apart. Just remove the 3 bolts behind the tunnel. Save yourself some time.

 

[slimjim2525]

Don't be nervous about these sleds. They are VERY reliable if you do the upgrades as suggested. My buddy has 40k miles on his 17, I have 20k miles on my 18. No issues after doing the upgrades. I would also suggest BOP's roller over kit. I blew out my oil tank gasket and puked 3 quarts of oil in 30 seconds. Ruined a trip.