NX systems question

[schmeg]

I'm considering nitrous for a summer project after I get done stretching the sled and had a question about the NX system by CB Perf. I called them and they said that it is recommended that you install ARP head bolts (supplied in kit) because the stockers just stretch too much. Are any of you guys with wet setups doing this?

 

[Blown14psi]

N.O.S. system here it's a direct port fogger just like NX. 50 shot and no head studs. Also I didn't use a throttlebody spacer and I've used the stock airbox.

I believe with the CB they give you a NX kit with a spacer and K&N filters.

Look at my past posts for pics of the install, pulls really strong I gain about 1500rpms with a 50 shot.

 

[schmeg]

Is it a turn key "kit" or did you piecemeal the system yourself?

 

[NOS-PRO]

I have heard that the head bolts are stretching and causing the head gasket to go out when going with a larger system. Lately, I have heard of a couple.
I will be putting the new head studs in mine for added insurance. No problms on my end yet with my wet system, and stock headbolts.

 

[schmeg]

Thanks a lot guys. I've heard a lot about both this system and some of the reputable dry systems, and both seem to have advantages over the other. I do like the idea of having a header tank full of race gas for happy times. I'm not sure if the airbox that the NX systems comes with is the way I want to go. I want to retain a stock appearing sled, and I would be able to use the stock airbox lid, and I don't want to load the motor down hard for the bottle, then have it lazy while trail riding. It just seems that the wet system is the way to go if you want consistency, and run 87 octane for everyday trail riding. BTW, I finally saw the Pinks episode with Terry,,,nice show!

 

[Blown14psi]

Is it a turn key "kit" or did you piecemeal the system yourself?

CB uses a generic NX kit and they make the accessories ( manifold, fuel tank, filters ,etc) to go along with it.

NX and N.O.S. kits are identical they are both direct port fogger systems they just use diff solenoids and fuel pumps.

I bought a N.O.S. 4 cylinder streetbike kit and " piecemealed" the kit so it would work. I had to cut lines and buy extra fittings and buy a bottleheater to make it work on a sled. I don't think their is a turnkey kit out there but some are easier to install than others and the NX and N.O.S. systems are a little more difficult to install. You have all Summer?

I've installed both NX and N.O.S. systems on Apex Mountains with good luck without a seperate fuel tank and like I said I used the stock airbox. The only way you can tell the sled has something is the gauge pod that I made that sits on the handlebars

 

[NOS-PRO]

Thanks schmeg!

 

[Srxspec]

Guys are running turbo sleds with 25+ lbs of boost and stock head studs! If you retorque the head properly I do not believe you need heavy duty studs.

If detonation occurs I would rather blow a head gasket out due to the head studs stretching rather than have super heavy duty head studs & bust ring lands or bend rods because the extra pressure has no where to escape!

 

[BigDog05]

Here is a good post by Ted Jannetty on head studs and retorque procedure.


http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... d+retorque

 

[schmeg]

Excellent reading. It does make sense. This certainly makes my decision a little easier. I didn't want to crack open a perfectly good motor just for head bolts. Yes, the summer is long and good for these projects. This will happen after my stretch job is done. Jay

 

[Reimond]

When running 80hp shot with race fuel (-06 attack) is it ok to run stock ignition timing? How about with 100hp shot?

 

[NOS-PRO]

still o.k. to run stock timing, although they say to retard ignition 1 degree every 50 horsepower.

 

[Reimond]

Thank you for your fast reply.
I think also race fuel burns slower than pump-gas. so it will be ok in that side as well.

 

[kinger]

I have the kit with ARP studs and it works great, hits like a frieght train. So hard that it ratchets the track at 80 mph. this year extrovert drivers are going on and a button not a TPS switch so I can modulate it a little better.

I was worried about underclutching all the time when off the bottle, but then I remembered back to when I first got this sled and its the only sled where my shoulders hurt from hanging on. Its easy to read too much on these forums and think you need to gear it differently, more boost, more nitrous, etc., but in the end just ride the damn thing and see what you think. I have the 25T top gear and it still pulls much harder then my 700 viper ever did and blows a stock vector away OFF the bottle.