Oil filters other than Yamaha

[Roadrider]

I am in the change the filter with oil group. I would never use Yamaha oil. Never even seen them in a test
along with Mobil 1 or Amsoil. And I would also never run a zero weight. You get it too hot, that's just what it is
is zero weight. That viscosity rating is for one temp.
compared to a straight 30 weight standard. You haven't been given a clue what it is at a higher temp and won't likely ever find out.

 

[Irv]

To each their own but imo if you are not changing your filter everytime you are changing your oil, then whats the purpose of changing the oil?

I get it that the filter doesn't hold a lot of oil but have you ever noticed how much more oil comes out of the engine when you remove the filter??

Also, if you have the money and don't mind wasting it then carry on, but personally I'll continue to purchase Hi-Flo or Wix filters which are half the price of Yamaha filters and are probably the same filter anyways as the last time I checked, Yamaha was not in the oil and filter business?
(Been told by more than one reliable source that Hi-Flo makes filters for a host of manu's, including Yamaha)

Here's some food for thought. A partialy cloged filter is a better filter than a brand new one. Remember the filters have enough suface area in them that partly cloged at one oil change doesn't cause a flow restriction.

Where in god's name did you hear that??

With that analogy, a fully clogged filter must be the cat's azz then

Belive it or not I head this at a service school I was at. I always though it was an interesting concept. The thought train behind it is that is you have a 10 micron filter and the filter is restricted to say 8 microns you now have in effect a finer filter. With the amount of surface area built into filters rate of flow does not change most likley till the filter is 50% plugged down to 5 microns. I have a catapillar road grader at work that also recomends an oil change a 250 hrs and an oil and filter change at 500 hrs. The same idea as yamaha's every other change idea. In todays automotive world one of the bigest wastes of petrolum is changing oil to soon. In the automotive fleet I maintain we service gas vehicles at 4000 miles and diesil vehicles at 6000 miles. You should note I'm not talking about any fully pluged filters here.

The only problem with that scenerio imo is that how do you know how plugged it is?

I agree with the waste of oil and doing oil changes to soon.
I seen a program on 20/20 or a similar show over 10 yrs ago where they tested NY city cabs, which as most know, is the hardest thing on oil (stop and go, short drives and excessive idling) and they found through UOA's that in all cases the oil was still good and had plenty of life in it even after 5000 miles.

I just posted a similar article here or another forum that basically said the same thing, changing oil out at 5000km's is nothing but a waste of money, especially if you are spending extra on synthetic oils.

But one thing to keep in mind, no matter how many miles are on the oil, it is still very important to change it out annually due to the accumulations of acids in it. (bi-product of the combustion/exhaust cycle)

I believe most auto manu's now recommend higher mileage change intervals but most don't read their manuals and therefore still believe they have to change it out at 5000km's (or 5000 miles in the U.S.)

My wife's 02 Olds manual states that the oil life is based on engine revolutions and engine temperature and not on mileage. 10,000 miles (16,000 kms) since your last oil change.
Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5,000kms) Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles or 12 months(which ever occurs first?) without an oil change.

It will be hard to change this mind set with older seasoned drivers who have always changed their oil at the old recommended times but hopefully they realize that oils and engines have come a long ways in the last 10yrs alone.

 

[TrueBlue]

SlimJim, motors don't cost 10,000 dollars. There are a lot of other filters out there that are better & cost less.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

I am in the change the filter with oil group. I would never use Yamaha oil. Never even seen them in a test
along with Mobil 1 or Amsoil. And I would also never run a zero weight. You get it too hot, that's just what it is
is zero weight. That viscosity rating is for one temp.
compared to a straight 30 weight standard. You haven't been given a clue what it is at a higher temp and won't likely ever find out.

Sorry, can't quite understand what is being said here.

 

[TrueBlue]

Go back to the 6th post to understand.

 

[Mooseman]

1. I use Shell Rotella T5 full synth TRUCK oil. Good reviews and analysis by others in motorcycles.

2. Use K&N oil filter. It's a good filter and love that nut on the end.......
.

What grade of oil are you using? 0W40?

Roger that. I would have used T6 but they don't have it in a 0W30/40 weight. I wonder if there would be a big cold viscosity difference between 0W40 and 5W40?

 

[pat the rat]

the way i see it is like this,if yamaha says'' change filter at 20000km'' i'm guessing they know what they are talking about,i did make it to 20000 on the same filter,so you have proof that not changing the filter is ok,never burned a drop of oil either,and i run yamalube only,the masterminds that build these great engines must know what's best for these motors,so i go by the book

 

[BombaPolaYama]

Go back to the 6th post to understand.

yeah thanks that makes it perfectly clear!!

 

[ecopter]

the way i see it is like this,if yamaha says'' change filter at 20000km'' i'm guessing they know what they are talking about,i did make it to 20000 on the same filter,so you have proof that not changing the filter is ok,never burned a drop of oil either,and i run yamalube only,the masterminds that build these great engines must know what's best for these motors,so i go by the book

Bravo! We have a winner. Way too much over anaylzation on this topic. Does anyone really think the engine cares just as long as the oil is changed at the recommended interval and some type of filter is used? It's funny how emphasis is put on silly things that will really never prove a hill of beans to anything.

We once had an auxillary power unit that sat in the elements, was old, and the oil was the color of caramel; thick and obviously bad. It hadn't been changed in years, but that engine started and ran like a sewing machine. The mechanics swore they'd never change it just due to karma. Well, someone came along and changed it, and the machine basically took a dump. Never ran the same again.

Not that we're going to that extreme with our sleds, but come on, this isn't rocket science. For you folks out there that have taken the time to read all three pages of this and are confused......relax. Go back to the first posts on what types of filters are available and choose one. Or, settle on your Yamaha dealer supplied filter. Then, go to the oil section and grab some Yamalube. I guarantee the earth won't stop rotating and your machine will operate just fine when you turn the key. Enjoy!

jf

 

[yamaha1973]

the way i see it is like this,if yamaha says'' change filter at 20000km'' i'm guessing they know what they are talking about,i did make it to 20000 on the same filter,so you have proof that not changing the filter is ok,never burned a drop of oil either,and i run yamalube only,the masterminds that build these great engines must know what's best for these motors,so i go by the book

X2

 

[hamrtyme]

the way i see it is like this,if yamaha says'' change filter at 20000km'' i'm guessing they know what they are talking about,i did make it to 20000 on the same filter,so you have proof that not changing the filter is ok,never burned a drop of oil either,and i run yamalube only,the masterminds that build these great engines must know what's best for these motors,so i go by the book

X2

x3

 

[canadianhunter]

Back to original question: Highflow # HF 147

 

[Irv]

the way i see it is like this,if yamaha says'' change filter at 20000km'' i'm guessing they know what they are talking about,i did make it to 20000 on the same filter,so you have proof that not changing the filter is ok,never burned a drop of oil either,and i run yamalube only,the masterminds that build these great engines must know what's best for these motors,so i go by the book

Well, I guess your braver than me Pat as I would never run a oil filter to 20,000k, in anything.
(I would like to see the internals of it and see how clogged or clean it was though?)

I know what your saying about the "Experts" at Yamaha, but I have seen it for myself, just with all the anomolies written right in the owners manual, let alone all the strange things written/posted right here on TY.

I also think what most are saying on here, myself included, and that is there is no need to pay what Yamaha charges for it's oil and filters when equal or far better quality products are available for far less.

 

[Irv]

Back to original question: Highflow # HF 147

Phone a motor-cycle, sled shop/dealership and have them cross reference it to a Yamaha Vector filter, it's as simple as that.

 

[Riceburner]

Well, I guess your braver than me Pat as I would never run a oil filter to 20,000k, in anything.

My Tow vehicle is a Benz ML 550. Recommended oil change interval is 20,000 km. [Mind you it holds 9 litres of Mobil 1 ]

Don't see too many Mercedes engines going down.

My sleds gets changed once a year. I figure the manufacturers if anything are overcautious so their recommendation should be more than fine.