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Oil is not leaving the oil tank after engine rebuild, why?

rxrider

Jan-Ove Pedersen
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
7,355
Age
59
Location
Lakselv - 70N & 25E
Country
Norway
Snowmobile
2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I filled up oil in the external oil tank and started the engine for a few seconds. The oil level was still the same in the oil tank. I do not dare to run the engine without oil so I have added about 3.5 litres into the engine. 3 litres into the oil tank and 0.5 litres into the head. Engine oil doesn't circulate, engine have been running on idle for a total of 1 minunte. I did oil everything well on installation so the engine should still be ok.

I am sure hoses are routed correct, I checked everything out by looking at my 2005 RX-1 ER.

Could there be a airlock somewhere between the oil tank and the oil pump so the oil is not reaching the pump? If so, what can be done to get oil to enter the pump.
 

There is a check valve at the oil pump inlet... Wen you rebuild your
engines, you have to fill pump with oil c'aus it can't create vacuum
to suck oil from reservoir...DO NOT RUN ENGINE!. You should
remove the smallest hose on the oil tank, block the hose! and blow
compressed air an oil tank. It is going to open the check valve and
let oil flow to pump :D . You have to be patient but, it is going
to work! ;)!
 
peteracing - Thanks for your advice. I will try it that way to get oil to the pump.

I was thinking that I had to tear her down again. Scary though :)
 
Peteracing - Thanks again for the advice and a lesson learned for me. :rocks:

Your advice did work out fine. ;)! I did install a hose to the smallest inlet on the oil tank and blew into the hose, it was enough pressure to circulate the oil around the engine and back into the oil tank. I had to repeat this many times before the pump started to suck continously. On the few first attempts the pump circulated oil only for a few seconds and then it stopped pumping. I shut down the engine imediatly and repeated the prosess until it did pump continously.

I will check circulation next time I start the engine just to be sure. Turbo is getting oil also so everything seems to be right so far.

I did check around and found out that there have been burn downs caused by lack of circulation.

Luckily I did look into the oil tank when starting the engine the first time, guess it saved me the engine and turbo as well. :)

Edited: Maybe I'm blind but the service manual does not say (what peteracing made me aware of) that you have to fill the pump with oil before installation. Nor had my Yamaha dealer hear of this, and he is a sertified mechanic on these engines.

Mr Sled - Make this a sticky - and/or put it in the tech section on TY
 
:D SUCK DON'T BLOW - It is like how did they get the carmel in Carmell Bar? They seem to be able to do it in Japan, when you get a brand new engine, but what happens when you rebuild it?? I have read their service manual from front to back (several times), and their is no mention of this secret!
My local Yama Mech suggested buying a SUCTION GUN ($11.15) from the local auto supply store (looks like a grease gun with the handle removed and a big plunger at the end). Anyway hook this up to the crankcase oil return nipple on the front of the engine (you will see 2 lines from the oil tank side by side - hook it to the one with the solid hose (the other is more flexible and is a vent). Then hook this pecker pump directly to your freshly rebuilt engine & pull with all your might - do several times till you get the drip!! done :flag:
 
TurboCobra - Good advice.

It seems there are several ways to do this. I chose to blow cause I did not have anything else useful at hand other than my own lungs and a hose to build pressure, but it worked out just fine for me.

My guess is that Yamaha is filling the oil pump prior to installing it into the engine. When filling oil to the fully assembled sled oil pump starts to suck right away.
 
just a dumb question, I dont imagine there was a lot of air you had to push, but did you have to run a water remover on your compressor, so you dont blow condensate into the engine?
 
Kbxsrx - Reasonable question. :D

I did not use a compressor - But I would agree with you that one should drain the compressor tank to avoid pumping a lot of moisture into the engine oil (better do it just for your piece of mind).

On the other hand it would depend on type of compressor, some of them collect water to prevent "contaminating" the compressed air, typically used by painters, they have to be drained every now and then. Other types used together with powertools by carpenters and mechanics may not have such systems cause a little water will not destroy the tools, powertools and carpenter tools often have their own lubrication system.

My compressor is of the latter type and it has a valve on the bottom of the tank and manual says I should let out pressure every time when I'm finished using it. Water and air will then leave the tank together.
 
Fired up my rebuilt motor last night (after sucking oil up return). Ran fine - did you guys pull off the return lines to tank to view oil returing to tank?
Wuz supposted to go 4 a ride today, but smacked my hand lowering the snowmobile stand - oooch! :Babe:

(6 stitches later...)
 

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Take out dip stick and watch carefully when engine starts, oil will start to flow within a second or two, and you will see that oil is circulating. Another thing that happens if there is no sucktion from the pump is that oil level in tank will rise a LOT.
 
- When you add oil to the tank after a change lift the right ski up on an 8 inch block so the air can run out of the input hose
- If you have the oil pump out pack it with some light grease, that's what they do at the factory
It has a dual rotor pump, 1 will push oil back to the tank, be sure to pack both rotors
- If you have problems with flow, pinch the crank vent hose that goes to the airbox and crankcase pressure will push oil through the system
Note* dont just slap a pair of vice grips on there and go for a beer with your engine running or your oil tank might blow up or spit a line off
And dont worry, with no load these engines will run forever with no oil
 
Sorry 0007 but you are WRONG big time!.........
Leaving engine without oil press. is shure to destroy turbo bearings
(if only that).......Anyways, there is no sense in your comments,
it's a recepea for disaster :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
Ouch that looks like a good weevel bite you got there. Those ones sure make you learn real fast and I know I have had my share. Get well soon and go riding man!
 


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