• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Performance Upgrades Step By Step And Results

mitchw said:
I had the dealership re-weight the clutch for "2000 foot elevation." Stock MTX with the 17/41 gearing here, GPS speed WOT on hardpack (and I'm about 195 buckass naked) showed 72.4? I was starting to wonder if going to a 1.5" or 1.75" track would actually help in the deep and or steep (easier to turn the track, rather than the 2" stock?) Aftermarket pipe is going to be a summer project, can't wait to pick your collective brains on what route to go with there, may tinker some with clutch "kits" as well

I know I didn't loose NOTHING to the stock Maverick in the "steep and deep" by going down to the 1.5" Freeride track, Gained about 300% more traction and breaking power on trails though without the wimpy Maverick "Fold-o-Matic" lugs. Actually, the Maverick was down right scary in quick stop situations on hard pack. Also with the design of the freeride its should perform alot better in the late season crusty snow due to the fingers in the middle. On a Side note, I DID NOT gain any more topend speed, both track would pull 85-87mph on the speedo in perfect conditions, which is 78-80mph GPS with Exhaust and a 19t gear.
 

How much did you have to part with for your Freeride 144?
 
~550 shipped if I remember right. Its no longer made but I believe there are still a few floating around in the Yamaha dealer network. PortYamaha still has them listed yet for 560$. A little on the spendy side but I didn't want to monkey around with trimming a track down on the table saw. I also picked up a new 14x151x2.3" challanger for 250$ At the Dennis Kirk scratch and Dent store. They got the track in with a large shipment of tracks and had NO idea what a 14" wide mountain track was for, I DID, and they wanted 300$ I offered 250$ and they took it. I figure I'll keep that one tucked away encase I go out west some day, OR I really want to boondock.
 
Thanks for the input, my track is already getting pretty chewed up (prior to the 4th wheel kit and the other wheel kits) where the idler wheels weren't idling, so I'm gonna keep my eyes open over the summer. A group of us are heading up to Togo next weekend to ride (at least for Saturday), so if you're at all interested in going, PM me. One of the guys is logging up there this winter, says it looks like fun country to ride...
 
I'll be working next weekend, thanks for the Offer though. Nice trails up around Togo, there are also a few nice places to catch grub in the Sidelake area which isn't too far away like Bimbos (usually BUSY) and Viking Bar. ALOT of tamarack/ceder swaps up there also to go boondocking in, its a blast carving around all those trees.
 
I have the flatlander specs on mine (MTX) and it hits the limiter from a stop at WOT. Will adding bigger rivets on the inside take care of that?
 
There have been numerous threads on clutching and the primary message, for those below 2000ft is go with the heaviest weights you can. I've found that 48.1 total weight at 1500ft is still not enough. I hit the rev limiter about 5 times still and total shift out rpm is still settling in at 12300. I'm going with 48.4 then 48.7 next. I used A1 on the secondary but went back to stock. THe A1 position did coast better, but I actually like the engine drag in the corners, no need for brake and its consistant (hey and I get to hold the bars for increased safety).

I'm more interested in finding speed in the helix next.

Also, been thinking about ram-air on the airbox. Frogskin the V panel and run pvc to the intake, should be able to find gains on my PCIII. That's my next project...
 
Also, been thinking about ram-air on the airbox. Frogskin the V panel and run pvc to the intake, should be able to find gains on my PCIII. That's my next project...

ANY airbox modification you do will add horsepower, proven by Dynotech Research. So don't overthink it LOL!
 
The next upgrade will be Schmidt Brothers primary overdrive and seconday helix multi angle. I will do this in the order of primary overdrive first then test and post results, then change helix and test again then post results. Then I will finish changes with primary weight adjustments being addressed due to added increase of shift out efficency.

I have this on my sled and it's the best mod that I have done well worth it.
 


Back
Top