Phazer misfire and code 34 code 33

[ATV PRO #11]

Plug on cyl in question does look a lot whiter.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Got another stupid question.
Went and got plugs. Got br9's in error.
Another hour n half round trip and I got these. Didn't even open box. Assumed correct ones not remembering number off hand.
Just pulled in and not same number, nor tip. No plug head either.

Will they work?????

 

[71rdrnr]

Got another stupid question.
Went and got plugs. Got br9's in error.
Another hour n half round trip and I got these. Didn't even open box. Assumed correct ones not remembering number off hand.
Just pulled in and not same number, nor tip. No plug head either.

Will they work?????

Don't do it, don't do it,don't cave to desperation...

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Didn't do it.
Had to walk away, doesn't happen often but I had no wind in my sails and honesty I'm abit embarrassed to go back in, return set two and get set 3.
Make trip 3 to concrete village in the morning for 1 set of plugs. Can't be mad at dealer there, anyone walking in should have everything in order before they order. Not the dealers fault.

 

[71rdrnr]

I agree somewhat.. But when I go into WW and ask for a bla,bla,bla part# oil filter the parts guy still asks me for what application. The Polaris parts guy was the same way at HSShop.
Those guys at WSL are

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Well still having an issue after reassembly tonight. Code 34 is on steady now. For as long as I could keep it running anyway. Even key off then on again it's still live on screen.
New plugs are in.
New coil on cyl 2.
Ran same with tester ecu.
Checked entire harness for chafes ect. Double checked all connections left, right and anything I could get my hand on.
Have not pulled airbox off to check anything in front half of sled.
Anything I can check up front that may cause issue??

Thinking about this issue. There's no O2 sensor in these sleds right. So basically even running rough it should still feed it the same amount of fuel. Unless there's a "limp mode" code. So I'm having a hard time understanding why cyl 2 plug was so lean looking. Cyl 2 exhaust flange to pipe was fully cracked.

I'm stumped.

 

[71rdrnr]

Well still having an issue after reassembly tonight. Code 34 is on steady now. For as long as I could keep it running anyway. Even key off then on again it's still live on screen.
New plugs are in.
New coil on cyl 2.
Ran same with tester ecu.
Checked entire harness for chafes ect. Double checked all connections left, right and anything I could get my hand on.
Have not pulled airbox off to check anything in front half of sled.
Anything I can check up front that may cause issue??

Thinking about this issue. There's no O2 sensor in these sleds right. So basically even running rough it should still feed it the same amount of fuel. Unless there's a "limp mode" code. So I'm having a hard time understanding why cyl 2 plug was so lean looking. Cyl 2 exhaust flange to pipe was fully cracked.

I'm stumped.

When you were looking for chafed wires were you also looking for any corrosion on /at connections? I've seen the tinyist bit of green corrosion inside a weather pac connection play havoc on more then a few car transmissions at the shop.
Just a thought since your baby is always in out heated cave.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

When you were looking for chafed wires were you also looking for any corrosion on /at connections? I've seen the tinyist bit of green corrosion inside a weather pac connection play havoc on more then a few car transmissions at the shop.
Just a thought since your baby is always in out heated cave.

Yes. When I bought sled, 1st oil change I used a bit of dilectric grease on every connector I could. Pulled many apart and not a hint of moisture/corrosion.

 

[71rdrnr]

Swit

Yes. When I bought sled, 1st oil change I used a bit of dilectric grease on every connector I could. Pulled many apart and not a hint of moisture/corrosion.

Switched coils fron 1 to 2 ? Any wire runs where the wires are tight and may have started to pull out of connectors?

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Sensor is probably sensing the cam shaft position. ATV Pro #11, I probably live about 5 or 10 minutes from you. My sled started acting up on the way To the 59er, but 2 weeks ago why warm then. And it sucked limping it home at turtle speed. My coils tested good with the multi meter because they act up when hot and under load hard to detected going to replace coil one and test 50% chance of getting right the first time.

Did you ever get yours fixed ICE? Update??

 

[Mooseman]

Did you ohm out each wire to/from the coil with a multi meter? The red/white wire is ground, #2 coil gray/red goes to ECU connector and #1 coil orange also to ECU. That's the only sure way to check. Also check that it doesn't short to ground.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Did you ohm out each wire to/from the coil with a multi meter? The red/white wire is ground, #2 coil gray/red goes to ECU connector and #1 coil orange also to ECU. That's the only sure way to check. Also check that it doesn't short to ground.

I'm into it right now.
Thanks for that moose!!
While ohm'ing. Does my negative go to ground on sled? Or one in each side?

 

[71rdrnr]

I'm into it right now.
Thanks for that moose!!
While ohm'ing. Does my negative go to ground on sled? Or one in each side?

I believe to the red /white ground wire. ( probs to each side)

 

[Mooseman]

I'd probe that wire to the battery (-) and to sled ground just to be sure.

 

[71rdrnr]

Hey bro, try looking into an injector... Switch sides. No sure if an injector would cause a miss code but talking with the bike guys here we covered the electrical side. Thoughts???