Phazer misfire and code 34 code 33

[ATV PRO #11]

Ohm update:
Meter to ground 1 and 2 -
Off , 414k both sides consistent.
On , Ol

Meter to ground 1 and 2 +
Off , 4.9 both sides consistent.
On, Ol

Vdc check:
Meter to ground 1 and 2 -
Off, 0 both consistent.
On, .018

Meter to ground 1 and 2+
Off, 0 both consistent
On, 12.59

Continuity pos + side 1 and 2, key off no beep
Continuity key on got a beep

Continuity neg - side 1and2, no beep with reading of 550 key off and on.

With probes in plug key off 0 volts
With probes in plug key on -0.6 volts
Both sides consistent.

With probes in plug key off 423 ohms
With probes in plug key on -407 ohms
Both sides consistent.

Edited to reflect proper wire colours

 

[Mooseman]

Hey bro, try looking into an injector... Switch sides. No sure if an injector would cause a mid code but talking with the bike guys here we covered the electrical side. Thoughts???

No. Code specifically says a problem with ignition primary circuit.

For ohms check, I was thinking more a wire continuity from coil plug to ECU plug. Basically you should have 0 ohms from coil plug to ECU plug. Red/white should be 0 ohms to ground.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

No. Code specifically says a problem with ignition primary circuit.

For ohms check, I was thinking more a wire continuity from coil plug to ECU plug. Basically you should have 0 ohms from coil plug to ECU plug. Red/white should be 0 ohms to ground.

Continuity check on cyl 1 is 1-2 ohm
Cyl 2 same. Cyl 2 however is abit jumpy if I move the ecu harness part around. 2-35ish ohm. To inconsistent to tell. Does it for cyl1 check as well but within 10 ohm.

Edit. Beep on contact then it goes away with ohm readout.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Meter to ground 1 and 2-
Off, 0 both consistent
On, 12.59
.

Have to double check this one. Doesn't make sense to have a voltage reading on the ground (-) side of the plug with key on.

Also continuity in harness itself. Should be zero with steady beep indicating a solid connection.

Thanks for helping guys, learning as I go. Never been good with electrical gremlins.

 

[Mooseman]

Oops. My bad. I misread the schematics. Red/white wire is 12v + with key turned on. So at both plugs on that wire you need to have steady 12v +. If both do register voltage, then it's good for that side. The other wires, orange and grey/red, can't be measured directly for voltage or ground because they are triggered by the ECU.

I think you're on to something with the jumpy reading on the other wire. 1 Ω is insignificant but 35 Ω is not good. Make sure you use the 200 Ω scale on your digital meter.

Electrical work is one of the most frustrating and the most rewarding once fixed.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Going out to shop again today. Was noted to me to check the Tps. Going to have to dig abit as I have no idea where that one is.
I did unplug tors yesterday, stab throttle and got code 84. So I'm pretty sure that's functioning.
Frustrating as the snow, trails, more snow this morning for the end of the season I'm missing out on. I'm sure I'll get it, just hope in time for one last dig!!

 

[Mooseman]

The TPS is on the throttle body but I doubt very much it's that since the code is specific to the ignition primary circuit.

 

[yamahas]

Oops. My bad. I misread the schematics. Red/white wire is 12v + with key turned on. So at both plugs on that wire you need to have steady 12v +. If both do register voltage, then it's good for that side. The other wires, orange and grey/red, can't be measured directly for voltage or ground because they are triggered by the ECU.

I think you're on to something with the jumpy reading on the other wire. 1 Ω is insignificant but 35 Ω is not good. Make sure you use the 200 Ω scale on your digital meter.

Electrical work is one of the most frustrating and the most rewarding once fixed.

I agree with this.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Didn't get a chance to work on today.
We got a solid 5" of nice white stuff today and interestingly enough I run out of gas in the snowblower.

So I grab my sled tank, pour some into my Gerry can (clean one I use for quad) fill up the blower and sure enough, it starts running rough intermently. Spitting and sputtering then back to normal. Used for about 45 mins like that. Even the motor was shaking weird while throwing heavy piles.
Please tell me it's not something that simple as bad gas.
90% of limping home I had no codes. Both times this has happend. Flashed 34 here and there but never once stayed on steady like it is now.
I'm not going to mess with the TPS. Dealer I bought sled from emailed me a 1300 page service manual. Going to check a few more things, put it all back together, get rid of all the fuel and a batch of new premium and just see..... Maybe I'll get out for one more yet this year!!

 

[Mooseman]

If it is bad gas, we'll all be doing this...

 

[ATV PRO #11]

If it is bad gas, we'll all be doing this...

my temporary optimism and a bit of wind in the sails sent me out there but I'm going to have to agree with you.
Filtered fuel through clean white rag. Clean.
Let cans settle, flashlight in and on bottom...clean.
Pulled fuel pump. Filter is clean and no grit or anything in tank.

I'm bummed about this issue but between the 2 phazers and over 20000kms I'm actually not majorly disappointed. They've been pretty darn reliable. Like you said, the rewards will out way the frustration. And I'm gaining a HUGE amount of experience with help from a lot of you guys here.

 

[steiner]

my temporary optimism and a bit of wind in the sails sent me out there but I'm going to have to agree with you.

Well I guess you won't be joining us out at Nopiming for breakfast tomorrow am.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Well I guess you won't be joining us out at Nopiming for breakfast tomorrow am.

Unfortunately no. My last ride was with you tho Trails will be awesome. Lotsa snow today!! Have fun and be safe. Say hi to all for me!!

Congrats on the new site status bud!!

 

[cannondale27]

If you have exhausted every other test I would just replace the pickup sensor in the stator. They all fail eventually in every Yamaha I have known. It may or may not throw a code. Also if any of my sleds or quads have 10000mi or 5 years on them I consider the wire harness as disposable and replace it. Just too many wires to be considered reliable after that long of time.

 

[Mooseman]

I don't see how the pickup would have anything to do with code 34? That tells me that the circuit is broken somewhere in the primary circuit for that coil, as if it was unplugged or shorted.

So lets go back to basics. Code 34 says specifically that there is an open in #2 coil primary circuit. Possible causes:
- open or short in sub-wire harness 1
- open or short in wire harness
- malfunction in cylinder #2 ignition coil
- malfunction in ECU
- malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system

Do you have a copy of the repair manual? It has a section on diagnostics, specifically one for manually actuating the coils for testing. Even tough the available manual is for 2007, it should still work for your 2014. The troubleshooting part for code 34 says what you have been doing all along.
- check for bad connections
- check for open or shorted circuits
- check for bad coil

BTW, the 2007 ECU you used probably wouldn't have worked anyway because there were some changes between 2007 and 2014 so no surprise it didn't work.