kinger
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That is what I was thinking too allen. Nice picture that helps!
dirk_03
Expert
Srxspec said:Just a thought after some quick looking at the pictures.
I would machine the engine side of them so they slide slightly "over" the rubber portion of the motor mount, kind of like a pocket. I would also use a long bolt with the spacer bar in between on the front motor mounts just like the OEM Yamaha rear does.
Thanks Allen for the time to draw something up. This is exactly along the lines of what I was thinking. I do think that the long bolt is a good idea. Do you have one laying around you wanna part with? Also it is a good idea to pocket the end over the rubber mount a little as well.
Also allen I was thinking of doing arp studs when i lower my comprssion. Wondering if you have a good line on these. I thought MPI seemed on the expensive side?
kinger
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Hey dirk - I forgot I still have the long bolt from my RX part out. You can have that if you want.
I also have a set of ARP head studs out of my RX1 that are used you if they will fit the vec block you can have them too.
I also have a set of ARP head studs out of my RX1 that are used you if they will fit the vec block you can have them too.
dirk_03
Expert
pics
Some pics of some work.
Some pics of some work.
dirk_03
Expert
rigid
I have the side plates bolted up and the motor bolted in for now. I cannot believe how extremely rigid the motor is also the chassis is far more rigid. I am very happy with this! Makes me think I want to make more hp now! also think that a rx1 motor would fit. I want to find one and see before I have it all put togther. Need to get the oil tank mounted and then the front intercooler and shorten the heat exchanger. That should be the majority of the cutting and drilling. I am tired of having drill shavings all over the garage.
I have the side plates bolted up and the motor bolted in for now. I cannot believe how extremely rigid the motor is also the chassis is far more rigid. I am very happy with this! Makes me think I want to make more hp now! also think that a rx1 motor would fit. I want to find one and see before I have it all put togther. Need to get the oil tank mounted and then the front intercooler and shorten the heat exchanger. That should be the majority of the cutting and drilling. I am tired of having drill shavings all over the garage.
dirk_03
Expert
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Great progress dirk
dirk_03
Expert
pics
higher quality pics for your enjoyment.
front spacers
Rear Spacer
higher quality pics for your enjoyment.
front spacers
Rear Spacer
kinger
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Your bolt and studs will go out today, thanks!!
dirk_03
Expert
Oil tank
I was looking at how to mount the oil tank yesterday and figuring out the cooling lines. Both seem to be relatively easy compared to how I imagined it. I would really like to get a intercooler that I do not have to change. I have a MPI one but it is brand new and I dont wanna cut it up really, I guess though it was pretty cheap to buy.
I would really like to do air-water intercooler on the sled and build a water pump and run it off the mag side like mcx does with the oil return pump. I would add another small tunnel cooler. I think this would be the most efficent way of intercooling this thing. But I have not been able to talk myself into that yet. As I think it would add complexity and more hoses. And I am trying to keep a very clean install.
Here is a pic of how the oil tank will be mounted.
I was looking at how to mount the oil tank yesterday and figuring out the cooling lines. Both seem to be relatively easy compared to how I imagined it. I would really like to get a intercooler that I do not have to change. I have a MPI one but it is brand new and I dont wanna cut it up really, I guess though it was pretty cheap to buy.
I would really like to do air-water intercooler on the sled and build a water pump and run it off the mag side like mcx does with the oil return pump. I would add another small tunnel cooler. I think this would be the most efficent way of intercooling this thing. But I have not been able to talk myself into that yet. As I think it would add complexity and more hoses. And I am trying to keep a very clean install.
Here is a pic of how the oil tank will be mounted.
Attachments
kinger
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I'm not a big fan of air to water coolers, so complex andyour already in sub zero temps the air to air works really well.
Another option might be a snow to air in the tunnel but that is more piping but if you could find a old charge tube from a bender or something it might be ok.
Other wise cleaner install is a nice air to air unit mounted above the hood line where it packs with snow.
Another option might be a snow to air in the tunnel but that is more piping but if you could find a old charge tube from a bender or something it might be ok.
Other wise cleaner install is a nice air to air unit mounted above the hood line where it packs with snow.
dirk_03
Expert
yep
Totally agree I want to have a very clean install. I want to be able to open the hood and have it look like it came factory that way. I am on my way to that right now I think. Iam going to have to run the front cooler on the sled from what I can tell or a apex rad. I got the bolt and head studs today.
kinger said:
Totally agree I want to have a very clean install. I want to be able to open the hood and have it look like it came factory that way. I am on my way to that right now I think. Iam going to have to run the front cooler on the sled from what I can tell or a apex rad. I got the bolt and head studs today.
dirk_03
Expert
Working on it
Picked up a few parts for the sled this weekend at haydays.
-Lexan body panels(save some weight)
-Apex Rad
-Ulmer Turbo inlet elbow
-Simmons skis(gen 1)
-summit width A-arms
-etc
Also picked up a few ideas. I want to try something totally different with the rear suspension. i think it will save a few lbs and improve ride and couple the suspension better. This will come later.
As of now I am working on getting the intercooler welded up. Still wishing I was better at welding aluminum. I am trying though. It is strong just not the prettiest perfect even clean beads that my cousins can do. After I get the intercooler welded up today or tommorow I will get a charge tube figured out. Then pretty much need to pull the motor out to have the compression lowered. I hope to have it done by the end of october.
Picked up a few parts for the sled this weekend at haydays.
-Lexan body panels(save some weight)
-Apex Rad
-Ulmer Turbo inlet elbow
-Simmons skis(gen 1)
-summit width A-arms
-etc
Also picked up a few ideas. I want to try something totally different with the rear suspension. i think it will save a few lbs and improve ride and couple the suspension better. This will come later.
As of now I am working on getting the intercooler welded up. Still wishing I was better at welding aluminum. I am trying though. It is strong just not the prettiest perfect even clean beads that my cousins can do. After I get the intercooler welded up today or tommorow I will get a charge tube figured out. Then pretty much need to pull the motor out to have the compression lowered. I hope to have it done by the end of october.
dirk_03
Expert
dirk_03
Expert
head shim
Just pulled the head off the motor this afternoon in prep for installing the head shim and doing cam timing. I was worried what I might find in a motor that has been boosted for 3500 miles with stock compression. Well I was plseantly surprised. There is zero signs of denotation. It looks like I was running it a bit fat though which I knew. I have not measured the cylinders to see if they are perfect.
I am going to do the head shim and cam timing this week. And then put in the nytro oil pump as well.
I will have pics off all of this in process. This is my first time inside a 4 stroke snowmobile motor so it is a learning experience but have read a lot of what rxrider posted on doing the cam timing and am very confident I can get it done.
Just pulled the head off the motor this afternoon in prep for installing the head shim and doing cam timing. I was worried what I might find in a motor that has been boosted for 3500 miles with stock compression. Well I was plseantly surprised. There is zero signs of denotation. It looks like I was running it a bit fat though which I knew. I have not measured the cylinders to see if they are perfect.
I am going to do the head shim and cam timing this week. And then put in the nytro oil pump as well.
I will have pics off all of this in process. This is my first time inside a 4 stroke snowmobile motor so it is a learning experience but have read a lot of what rxrider posted on doing the cam timing and am very confident I can get it done.
