Replacing bearings in the trihub.

[cannondale27]

They are a direct replacement just be sure you get 137,141 or 129" versions. 129 is smaller.

 

[fasteddie15x]

Hi, in your picture you have a new axle. And new wheels. The wheels don't look like the have the molded cones to separate the wheels and the axle doesn't look like it has a larger diameter to keep them separated. Just wondering if they are direct replacements for the OEM 2014 tri hub?

Thanks

They are direct replacement. The other side of the wheel has the molded cones that you are referring to.just bolt them together and install. The shaft in the picture is for the front lower shock mount. Mine was starting to wear pretty bad (6400 mi on sled) so i replaced every bearing in all the wheels and the bearing by the brake rotor and sent all my shocks out to be rebuilt. All of this was preventative maintenance so hopefully i can have another year of trouble free riding! All of these parts have already been installed on the sled!

 

[Nkroeger80]

I've pretty much done the same now, replaces all bearings that were replaceable. Sent out shocks to have them revalved (I really wish I had a before video of the super slow rebound) and just ordered two Yamaha wheels for the rear axle. Sled has 8000kms


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cannondale27]

I've pretty much done the same now, replaces all bearings that were replaceable. Sent out shocks to have them revalved (I really wish I had a before video of the super slow rebound) and just ordered two Yamaha wheels for the rear axle. Sled has 8000kms


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a video I made showing how slow the rebound of stock compared to a properly valved rear shock. Crazy difference.
https://www.facebook.com/C27shockdoc/posts/827645354016228

 

[smoothride]

I was looking at my new 16 ltx le and it has replaceable bearings in the tri hub.

 

[Dirtbikekid1998]

I was looking at my new 16 ltx le and it has replaceable bearings in the tri hub.

Yes they just started to add the ability to change them out for the 2016s.....

 

[davey]

Trihub is 2 pieces.and it is on every viper.
Stating that it is 31 bucks is a little misleading. you actually need to buy 2 of them with tax and shipping so its more like $70+
At the end of the day if people want to buy new ones because they do not have replacable bearings in theirs then thats their choice im fine with that.
The purpose behind this post is to explain to guys that it is possible and relatively easy to fix thier existing trihubs as opposed to buying a new one.
I bought a hid headlight kit with the money i saved fixing the trihub.

I'm thinking about doing this. After removing the excess plastic does the aluminium shaft become loose in there?

 

[davey]

i like the concept of the trihub, but i dont like that the bearings are not replacable.

After reading a post a while back about making the bearings replacable on a-chat i decided to give it a shot.
Plus im wicked cheap and have full access to a machine shop with every tool and machine you can imagine

Before i get too far, this mod requires some skill with tools. If you dont have access to the proper tools or cant fabricate the things you need to do this i suggest not attempting this modification.

Disassemble the wheels from eachother, remove them from the axle.
Center one of the trihub wheels in a drill press with the long attachment arms facing up.
I did this by securing the wheel in a vise. I then used a 20 mm drill bit in the drill press chuck and aligned the bit through the center hole on the bearing. If you dont have a 20 mm drill, wrap some tape around a 3/4 drill bit till it slips freely into the bearing. It does not have to be perfect. Close will do.
Once you have the chuck centered with the wheel, secure the vise to the drill press. Once secure, recheck your alignment. If it is ok, install a hole saw in the drill press.
The original info i read stated to use a 1-3/4 hole saw but i used a 1-5/8 hole saw because my experience with holesaws is that they dont cut perfectly round. They usually cut a little large. More about this later.
Slowly and gently procede to cut the outside plastic with the hole saw. You need to go about .100-.125 deep.
You will eventually hit a molded in washer before you hit the bearing. Stop cutting when you hit the washer.
Remove the wheel from the drill press vise.
Use a socket to drive the bearing out of the trihub. I used an actual press but use what you have. It might give you a little fight but it will eventually press out
The bearing and the molded in washer will be removed. Both of these get thrown away.

You can now see the inside of the trihub minus the bearing. You will see on the back side (opposite of where you just cut) there is metal washer molded into the trihub, this is what your new bearing will be pressed against.Clean up all the plastic using a file, deburring tool, razor blade, what ever you have to make a nice clean edge where you just cut with the saw.
Install a new bearing pressing it down till it butts up to the molded in washer.
At this point you should be able to see there is a groove located in the wheel above the bearing you just installed. This groove is from the molded in washer you just removed. If you did everything correct your internal retaining ring will fit perfectly in this groove
Install a 1-11/16 internal retaining ring into the groove. If it does not fit well. Heat it gently with a torch and install it in the groove. The hot retaining ring will cut its own groove. You dont need a ton of heat. Too much heat will destroy the retaining ring.
On my wheels the retaining ring fit great on 1 wheel, not so great on the other.
I used a bearing heater to heat the retaining ring and slid it into the groove while turning it to enlarge the groove.

While this might sound pretty invoved, Overall the entire project took just over an hour. Im very happy with the results but was unable to take pictures because i did this at work and we have a no camera/cell phone policy

Are they both the same? If I was to order new ones are they both the same part #.