shagman
Vendor
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2014
- Messages
- 1,059
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Cedarville Michigan
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Sidewinder BTX LE
2014 SR Viper XTX SE (Sold)
Guys if you have the proper tool for the collar it loosens right up. If you dont, just loosen the nut until it equal with the end of the collar then use a punch and tap the nut straight in towards the clutch side and it will loosen. Mine has been apart a few time and it is pretty easy. Then shaft can be removed out the clutch side with with the clutch side bearing and support attached. the snap ring you are looking for is on the inside of the clutch side bearing. Clutch side bearing is also pressed on the shaft. ( do not hit the shaft to remove that bearing as you will bang up the end of shaft it is soft.)use a press.
dburrowes
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 166
- Age
- 53
- Location
- Brooklin, Ontario, Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Yamaha Viper LTX-SE
Looking at my old setup now. If you have a puller you can try pulling the clutch side bearing and frame member off the shaft as a assembly. Then yes you will be able to remove the whole shaft by tapping clutchside in toward chaincase. You can then cut the bearing off using a cutoff wheel in diegrinder or angle grinder.
Thank you all for your comments. Cannondale, I finally went with your suggestion. Used a puller and took the secondary side off the shaft. Then lightly tapped out the jackshaft via the chaincase side. Cut off my Bearing, nut and sleeve. Interesting that the sleeve was on so tight that as soon as I cut through the inside chase of the bearing that I felt a pop and the whole thing slid apart. Note to self. This is now going to be an annual maintenance procedure to ensure it doesn't weld up again.
Glad you got it. Check the checkball in breather if it's not visible it stuck open and could have allowed moisture to corrode sleeve or someone just overtightened the sleeve.Thank you all for your comments. Cannondale, I finally went with your suggestion. Used a puller and took the secondary side off the shaft. Then lightly tapped out the jackshaft via the chaincase side. Cut off my Bearing, nut and sleeve. Interesting that the sleeve was on so tight that as soon as I cut through the inside chase of the bearing that I felt a pop and the whole thing slid apart. Note to self. This is now going to be an annual maintenance procedure to ensure it doesn't weld up again.
He tried that with collar Shagman. Something out of ordinary must have happened to the collar.Guys if you have the proper tool for the collar it loosens right up. If you dont, just loosen the nut until it equal with the end of the collar then use a punch and tap the nut straight in towards the clutch side and it will loosen. Mine has been apart a few time and it is pretty easy. Then shaft can be removed out the clutch side with with the clutch side bearing and support attached. the snap ring you are looking for is on the inside of the clutch side bearing. Clutch side bearing is also pressed on the shaft. ( do not hit the shaft to remove that bearing as you will bang up the end of shaft it is soft.)use a press.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
He gets my vote.Yes. DO same when putting in. Thank You. This is in FAQ now. I think we have a candidate for mechanic of the month of November right guys?
dburrowes
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 166
- Age
- 53
- Location
- Brooklin, Ontario, Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Yamaha Viper LTX-SE
Thanks again guys. Back loving working on my machine again. Question though. Is anyone here progressing the wobble bearing before putting it back in or will Thisbe interfere with the chaincase oil that should provide lubrication for the bearing.
Last edited:
I just used chaincase oil to prelube it.Thanks again guys. Back loving working on my machine again. Question though. Is anyone here progressing the wobble bearing before putting it back in or will Thisbe interfere with the chaincase oil that should provide lubrication for the bearing.
dburrowes
Pro
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 166
- Age
- 53
- Location
- Brooklin, Ontario, Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2015 Yamaha Viper LTX-SE
Thanks Cannondale
Ekodiac
Newbie
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Quebec city
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- SR Viper XTX SE 2015, RS Vector LTX 2008, Bravo 250 1991
Thanks Cannondale
Hi, I have the very same problem and read your posts with interest, very usefull - thanks! I tried with a 2 jaws puller and a flat bar behind the bearing housing and could not pull it before it came unstable, seems super pressed fit. May I ask you how you did it? Did you actually build a special puller? Thanks in advance.
So your collar is stuck too? All the bolts are out of the housing/frame member? Is the flat bar you used necessary? Two jaw puller should not hurt the housing if careful.Hi, I have the very same problem and read your posts with interest, very usefull - thanks! I tried with a 2 jaws puller and a flat bar behind the bearing housing and could not pull it before it came unstable, seems super pressed fit. May I ask you how you did it? Did you actually build a special puller? Thanks in advance.
Ekodiac
Newbie
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Quebec city
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- SR Viper XTX SE 2015, RS Vector LTX 2008, Bravo 250 1991
All bolts are out and snap ring, Flat bar was to get jaws equally distanced from shaft, but it bent...please see my pics where I re-tried as you said, will need to hold the puller straight with a piece of wood. Aside from snap ring, anything else that could stop the bearing from moving? I am impressed how much force is needed to pull it without damaging the housing...So your collar is stuck too? All the bolts are out of the housing/frame member? Is the flat bar you used necessary? Two jaw puller should not hurt the housing if careful.
Attachments
Last edited:
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
All bolts are out and snap ring, Flat bar was to get jaws equally distanced from shaft, but it bent...please see my pics where I re-tried as you said, will need to hold the puller straight with a piece of wood. Aside from snap ring, anything else that could stop the bearing from moving? I am impressed how much force is needed to pull it without damaging the housing...
On less I'm missing something the jack shaft needs to be pulled from the secondary side or pushed from the chain case side. By the look of that puller ur pushing in the direction it can't go.
Look at some of the videos posted in this post.
No think of it as pulling the frame member off shaft.On less I'm missing something the jack shaft needs to be pulled from the secondary side or pushed from the chain case side. By the look of that puller ur pushing in the direction it can't go.
Look at some of the videos posted in this post.
With bearing in it.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ok see what you mean now. so you can do it this way without taking the chain apart? Then you can press the bearing out of the frame peace.No think of it as pulling the frame member off shaft. With bearing in it.
Last edited:
Similar threads
- Replies
- 0
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 20
- Views
- 3K
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.