Speed Ring.
The speed ring works!
Actually, you can just put small diameter washers on the studs before you tighten the helix down. Just make sure the washers are all the same thickness.
Try this-
1-Take the secondary off the sled.
2-Split the secondary, but before you do, take the spring out and bolt your helix and your spacer back on and tighten.
3- Close and rotate the clutches so the buttons are located in the neutral position, like they would be if the clutch had the spring in and you were just holding in your hand, looking at the buttons where they touch the helix. Notice the buttons don't touch, right?
4- Notice the 3 oval bores in the casting where the movable sheave towers come through the stationary. They are oval and they only allow the movable to rotate back just so far and the movable sheave helix towers (towers are the part where the helix bolts to) hit and stop the movable from rotating back.
5- Take a die grinder with a sand roll on it and lightly sand and shape the movable in the neutral area I describe above. Sand them equally (all 3 openings), but make sure its enough to allow the movable to rotate back and bring the buttons back onto the helix in neutral position, with the speed ring or washers installed. This lets the torque transfer through the buttons again and into the helix shift surface, like it does without the speed ring installed. If the buttons don't contact the helix, like someone above pointed out, the torque feed back to the secondary will be transfered into the belt, cause friction and heat up the belt, make it stickier and you'll loose rpms on the full shift as a result.
6- Now that you've got this far and your buttons now touch the helix with the speed ring on, YOUR GOING TO LOOSE RPMS all the way through the shift and on top. BUT DON"T LIGHTEN YOUR WEIGHTS to gain them back because you need all of the shift force you can get to close the clutches in high ratio 1:1. You need another solution.
7- Take angle off the helix in the low ratio curve. For example, if you have a 54/46, go to a 50/46 and add cam arm tip weight if the engine over-revs. You want more weight with the same RPM at full shift because you need to lock up the clutches in 1:1 in order to utilize the extra belt travel in the secondary and actually they go hand and hand. A better way to gain rpms on top is to go to a softer primary spring (softer at full shift 1:1, when the clutches are approaching lock up. Truth is, you want the softest spring, the lightest weight and straight angle helixs and the least angle you can get away with and your sled will ALWAYS be faster on top if you balance this. It takes power to compress a spring, primary or secondary. It takes power to swing heavy cam arms and it takes torque to pull angle on helixs. All of the previous, except the less helix angle minimize friction at the belt to sheve contact interface and you only want as much interfacial tension (friction) that you need to keep the belt from slipping against the gear your trying to pull and the weight your attempting to move.
8- I'm not trying to be flamin here but the conclusion above and the way the testing was performed and knowing the lack of tuning followup, after the speed ring was installed, I can't agree with this. I tested the extra travel offered by spacing the helix, followed up on the tune-up after installation, installed a slightly longer belt and I went quicker on the clocks and pulled high MPH consistently when utilizing this techniique.
I know it works.
No doubt in my mind!
that sounds like tuner talk 
