jagger2014
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2011 apex xtx
just wondering if anyone has any experience using rivet nut to install the belly pan on there sled ..... i have a new panel to put on and I'm on the fence of using pop rivets or rivet nut.... thanks
theewarrior
Expert
I just done the exhaust side lower panel with them ,,, love it
WVTurboLTX
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2017 Sidewinder LTX LE
Do it. You won't be dissapointed. Everything is so easy when you can remove that panel. Both vipers that I work on and my sidewinder have the exhaust side done.
WVTurboLTX
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I just put a dab of blue loctite on the screws so they don't vibrate out.
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Get a quality rivet gun and will make the job even easier, great mod for making oil changes and chaincase servicing or anything else.
jagger2014
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2011 apex xtx
what size did you guys use...stainless steel or copper.... I'm thinkin 1/4 ss ill be doin the clutch side first ,as i had a belt failure last week ....if all goes good ill be doin exhaust side as well
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
I used m6 button head bolt with nor lock washers and aluminum rivet nuts.
SumpBuster
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McMaster Carr, or fastenal. I actually found the exact original equip. rivnuts as the ones that came with my old vector and apex oem skid plates. The screw to tighten ones, not a rivet gun.just wondering if anyone has any experience using rivet nut to install the belly pan on there sled ..... i have a new panel to put on and I'm on the fence of using pop rivets or rivet nut.... thanks
Some dealers spin the splined nut while tightening and ruin them. Or drill the hole too big.
If done right they last. I used aluminum.
Last edited:
WVTurboLTX
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M6 steel
STAIN
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I used 1/4-20 with stainless allen head bolts. Makes service MUCH easier and cleaner.
ROCKERDAN
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I have many pics and vid of this topic in build thread.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-rt...et-the-mods-begin.149801/page-20#post-1406936
What you need to consider is that there are approx 3 rivnuts that work easily since they only sandwhich down on a single thickness of aluminum....Two near right foot and one more below shock. While the remaining must go into a much thicker surface. One spot has two thicknesses of alum and other spots has the frame member near top of shock.
While I ended up using ALum rivnuts with smaller ones at thin section(10-24) and larger ones at thicker section(1/4-20) I was not super happy with how the larger ones BIT the depth of the thicker material. So I think next fall when I do my 2nd oil change I will go to a SS rivnut that is better sized.
I just used the cheapo Harbor Freight kit which worked but I would buy a better gun and rivnuts if I did it over.
See my oil change section of build thread. Removing the lower panel is awesome as I removed all my oil lines to get out an additional 3/4 cupful of old oil when changing.
Dan
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-rt...et-the-mods-begin.149801/page-20#post-1406936
What you need to consider is that there are approx 3 rivnuts that work easily since they only sandwhich down on a single thickness of aluminum....Two near right foot and one more below shock. While the remaining must go into a much thicker surface. One spot has two thicknesses of alum and other spots has the frame member near top of shock.
While I ended up using ALum rivnuts with smaller ones at thin section(10-24) and larger ones at thicker section(1/4-20) I was not super happy with how the larger ones BIT the depth of the thicker material. So I think next fall when I do my 2nd oil change I will go to a SS rivnut that is better sized.
I just used the cheapo Harbor Freight kit which worked but I would buy a better gun and rivnuts if I did it over.
See my oil change section of build thread. Removing the lower panel is awesome as I removed all my oil lines to get out an additional 3/4 cupful of old oil when changing.
Dan
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Dont stop now, do the clutch side also,Do it. You won't be dissapointed. Everything is so easy when you can remove that panel. Both vipers that I work on and my sidewinder have the exhaust side done.
WVTurboLTX
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2017 Sidewinder LTX LE
I've never had the need for more room over there. Clutches come off easy and plenty of room to work on the brake. The chain case was a whole other issue though. Not any more.Dont stop now, do the clutch side also,
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Enjoyed the elbow room when changing the track, also helps with the spring cleaning.I've never had the need for more room over there. Clutches come off easy and plenty of room to work on the brake. The chain case was a whole other issue though. Not any more.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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One more point I forgot to mention.....
When I was doing mine, I realized that in several of the spots out of 9 total rivets, there is access to the backside, so in those cases you can easily just use a SS screw and NUT on backside. Sure its not as easy to remove/install as you have to hold the nut from spinning but some of them are quite easy to get at.
Just something Im considering on the ones that are a pain in #*$&@ to use rivnuts.
Dan
When I was doing mine, I realized that in several of the spots out of 9 total rivets, there is access to the backside, so in those cases you can easily just use a SS screw and NUT on backside. Sure its not as easy to remove/install as you have to hold the nut from spinning but some of them are quite easy to get at.
Just something Im considering on the ones that are a pain in #*$&@ to use rivnuts.
Dan
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