Brian Friebel
Extreme
Hey guys not sure if you can help but I was changing my secondary clutch spring to the orange thunder products spring. When I took helix off my grip slipped and I couldnt tell how much twist was in it to put new one on. I know stock is 3 and 3. I am putting it at 3 and 3 and i twisted clockwise until the studs lined up with hole. Is this the correct twist or should I of went farther?
XP123
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For you to go farther you would have to be Superman!Hey guys not sure if you can help but I was changing my secondary clutch spring to the orange thunder products spring. When I took helix off my grip slipped and I couldnt tell how much twist was in it to put new one on. I know stock is 3 and 3. I am putting it at 3 and 3 and i twisted clockwise until the studs lined up with hole. Is this the correct twist or should I of went farther?
34pontiac
Expert
They are recommending 2-3 now..
ROCKERDAN
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Set it at 2/3 as mentioned above.....It is still rather tough to do even at 50 degrees with one hand.
My guess is that 50 is about 18pounds on fishscale, if not a tad more. Will test next time I mess with mine but its all back together now.
Dan
My guess is that 50 is about 18pounds on fishscale, if not a tad more. Will test next time I mess with mine but its all back together now.
Dan
Brian Friebel
Extreme
Thanks guys. Trying to learn all I can. What is the reason to put it in 2-3? instead of the stock 3-3 Stiffer spring than stock or?
SAB1
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Confused? I have to 33/35 helix and orange spring set in 3/3 with no tune and when I questioned this in the other thread they said leave it there.
ROCKERDAN
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Thanks guys. Trying to learn all I can. What is the reason to put it in 2-3? instead of the stock 3-3 Stiffer spring than stock or?
Confused? I have to 33/35 helix and orange spring set in 3/3 with no tune and when I questioned this in the other thread they said leave it there.
As all clutching, this is all about testing IMO. I did some and posted my results, but everyone is different. Terry and Shag developed this spring and helix combo if Im not mistaken. It obviously worked well on the asphalt and helped to spool the turbo down low.(make rpm quicker)
It comes down to the entire clutch recipe. I believe we have so many posts/threads on clutching here, that we all need to step back some and consider our entire recipe(not just one or two components).
I think we should just have ONE THREAD, with a standard FORM at the top, that every single person copies/pastes....So we can all paste in the same form, fill in our ENTIRE clutch recipe, and then NOTES section with Tune/HP, belt life, mileage, parts wear, ect ect....that way we are all filling in our entire setup.
Something to think about i guess...
Dan
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Dan do u still want to get rid of ur 33/35 reverse helix ? I'll take it, is it a dalton ?As all clutching, this is all about testing IMO. I did some and posted my results, but everyone is different. Terry and Shag developed this spring and helix combo if Im not mistaken. It obviously worked well on the asphalt and helped to spool the turbo down low.(make rpm quicker)
It comes down to the entire clutch recipe. I believe we have so many posts/threads on clutching here, that we all need to step back some and consider our entire recipe(not just one or two components).
I think we should just have ONE THREAD, with a standard FORM at the top, that every single person copies/pastes....So we can all paste in the same form, fill in our ENTIRE clutch recipe, and then NOTES section with Tune/HP, belt life, mileage, parts wear, ect ect....that way we are all filling in our entire setup.
Something to think about i guess...
Dan
I have searched and read every thread that mentions the secondary spring and i can not find the Stock Secondary spring rate. Does anybody have this info?
EDIT: found it 32.5/54
EDIT: found it 32.5/54
Last edited:
ROCKERDAN
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I like Dales comparison chart on the site....I have searched and read every thread that mentions the secondary spring and i can not find the Stock Secondary spring rate. Does anybody have this info?
EDIT: found it 32.5/54
I made up these screenshots with notes.
yet another reason buying components from Dalton is king, He shows all the specs.
Dan
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I like Dales comparison chart on the site....
I made up these screenshots with notes.
yet another reason buying components from Dalton is king, He shows all the specs.
Dan
View attachment 136689
View attachment 136688
That Dalton spring is 3.937 free length where the TP orange is .537 less. That's more side pressure with the Dalton..... The stock spring is .800 shorter length than the Dalton spring.
Also, the Dalton spring is 43 lbs. more load at 2.52 than the TP orange spring. Dalton is 53 lbs. more load than stock. The TP orange is only 10 different.
Got the specifications on all 3 springs yesterday from Lonn.
I agree with all the differences in clutch setups. @shagman and myself are the creators of the TP orange spring and testing was done on asphalt, grass, trail, off-trail and was tested on a bunch of sleds from stock to 285 horse big turbo setups. Did we try all clutching setups? No, I wish I was being paid to do all these tests, but I'm not.
I believe that what Dale has mentioned in his other post is that the more flatter/heavier profile weights are keeping the primary forced in full shift mode and the secondary is fighting to bring it back. Adding more side pressure isn't going to help in this situation. IMO, from reading all the posts, the heavier weights are what is blowing belts more often.
Lots of good info right now in threads about clutching. But there is some bad/wrong info also. Compared to the Dalton black/orange spring.... the true "Monster" spring is the Dalton spring by what I see in black and white.
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Hey guys not sure if you can help but I was changing my secondary clutch spring to the orange thunder products spring. When I took helix off my grip slipped and I couldnt tell how much twist was in it to put new one on. I know stock is 3 and 3. I am putting it at 3 and 3 and i twisted clockwise until the studs lined up with hole. Is this the correct twist or should I of went farther?
Please install the TP orange spring at 2-3
snowbeast
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Wow,terry you are correct,i just got the Dalton monster orange/blk,man it is same wire as my tpi orange but one more coil and longer,i wonder where to start,my stm weights are over loaded with 2 more grams on heel,same 14 grms in tip,and 30/90 blk/pink ulmer primary spring,i have not blown a belt yet in 1500 miles,but I took stock Yamaha yellow,on stm 38 at 70 degrees,and had to much heat for me,and way to low rpms,with heavy front/soft sprung,but my sled likes his primary spring lots,and stm weights work good so far,now I have stm steeper multy coming,and wondering where to wrap Dalton king kong lol 50 degrees maybe,my start angle is 42 now vrs 38?Please install the TP orange spring at 2-3
snowbeast
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Oh ya,one thing I do like about daltons spring,is length of tangs,longer,tpi and cats or atms are short,and we had the red/blk on last year wrapped at 30 degrees,and it was to much on the 38,and it would pop out of the helix end.Allen wanted it wrapped at 10 degrees,maybe than it would stay in?
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
No way are you getting my top secret clutching secrets....As all clutching, this is all about testing IMO. I did some and posted my results, but everyone is different. Terry and Shag developed this spring and helix combo if Im not mistaken. It obviously worked well on the asphalt and helped to spool the turbo down low.(make rpm quicker)
It comes down to the entire clutch recipe. I believe we have so many posts/threads on clutching here, that we all need to step back some and consider our entire recipe(not just one or two components).
I think we should just have ONE THREAD, with a standard FORM at the top, that every single person copies/pastes....So we can all paste in the same form, fill in our ENTIRE clutch recipe, and then NOTES section with Tune/HP, belt life, mileage, parts wear, ect ect....that way we are all filling in our entire setup.
Something to think about i guess...
Dan
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