Secondary Clutch

[cannondale27]

If all rollers are not touching in my mind there is an issue, especially if you run on stand let come to a stop.

Perhaps some miles and it will loosen up some .

Question. If belt is removed and all rollers are touching. Then belt is installed and one or more are not touching. What is the problem? Answer:Belt. Telling you on stand the belt does not always go to its natural neutral position. Just try rolling track by hand on stand. Lots of drag. Not even pull. Its dry. Extroverts.

 

[NYTurbo]

Question. If belt is removed and all rollers are touching. Then belt is installed and one or more are not touching. What is the problem? Answer:Belt. Telling you on stand the belt does not always go to its natural neutral position. Just try rolling track by hand on stand. Lots of drag. Not even pull. Its dry. Extroverts.

Change the belt.

 

[cannondale27]

Change the belt.

No. Its just the way it is.

 

[cannondale27]

A new belt will be worse for checking deflection on stand.

 

[NYTurbo]

Don' t agree but that' ok on that' just the way it is.

 

[cannondale27]

Don' t agree but that' ok on that' just the way it is.

Well its reality. Its just deflection. It does nothing except engagement and keeps your sled from creeping or taking off on ya. I agree this should be a simple thing and it is but telling everyone how it should be on a stand is just going to worry people over nothing. As long as secondary closes fully with no belt on. Get it close by walking belt up secondary with hands or even just setting belt in just the secondary. Then fine tune on the trail in snow.

 

[XP123]

I appreciate reading through the comments on this thread! I am a “clutch novice” but want to learn.

I installed one of the dial adjusters for the secondary on my Winder. How high do I want the belt riding in the clutch? Should there be just a small amount of “creep” when on a stand or not?

You don't want any creep. Having the belt ride even with the top of the secondary or even a little below will be better than having it ride high and be too tight. You will have issues with your reverse if the belt is too tight. These 4 strokes do not need to have a tight belt like 2 strokes do. Back when I had 2 strokes you had to run the belt tight or you would end up with a low end bog. The low end torque of 4 stroke sleds makes this a mute point. Another thing many don't understand is once your clutches engage and the secondary opens the belt hight adjustment has no effect on anything whatsoever. The only effect it has is during the clutch initial engagement and nothing more.

 

[WinterWolf]

Makes sense. When I had my 06 Mach Z, I would check the deflection routinely and adjust it accordingly to keep a crisp low end.

But once I got my Apex...never checked it once in 9 seasons/8 years of riding that machine...and she was as crisp as can be all the time...with no belt adjustment whatsoever.

 

[Soldier'spapa]

You don't want any creep. Having the belt ride even with the top of the secondary or even a little below will be better than having it ride high and be too tight. You will have issues with your reverse if the belt is too tight. These 4 strokes do not need to have a tight belt like 2 strokes do. Back when I had 2 strokes you had to run the belt tight or you would end up with a low end bog. The low end torque of 4 stroke sleds makes this a mute point. Another thing many don't understand is once your clutches engage and the secondary opens the belt hight adjustment has no effect on anything whatsoever. The only effect it has is during the clutch initial engagement and nothing more.

Thank you for this reply! It has helped me understand clutching a little more.