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Secondary float on winder

Thunder Products

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Yamaha, Polaris, AC and Ski-Doo
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We have received far too many calls from owners of Sidewinders complaining that their secondary doesn't float because people on social media think the sidewinder should float just like the Viper or previous 4 stroke sleds and thought I would take a little time to thoroughly explain what is going on. The Sidewinder secondary clutch will not float at an idle. If it does, your sled probably moves on it's own because there is nothing keeping the belt from trying to climb in the secondary.

Stock Sidewinder and to anyone running a belt deflection adjusting tool like our Belt Deflection and Belt removal tool.
At an idle, you will not have float. Does your secondary float? Yes it does! But you will not see it at an idle.
Do this to check your float.... With the sled on a stand or parked from idling, with the engine off, you will see the secondary does not float in and out. Now, push in on the helix as if you were going to remove your belt. With the belt down in the secondary, grab your secondary clutch and move it in and out..... you can now see that your secondary does in fact float.

All Yamaha previous sleds (other than the Sidewinder) used the (3) 8mm bolts on the rear of the secondary to adjust for belt deflection. As your belt wore, you could add a 1mm washer to each of the (3) 8mm bolts. This would allow the secondary sheaves to close up, thus bringing your belt higher up in the secondary sheaves. When installing a new belt, people would be complaining that their belt is squealing and were told to remove the washers from the (3) 8mm bolts on the back of the secondary. This would allow the bolts to open the secondary more to allow for a new or wider belt. Those that have added a belt adjuster/belt removal tool on previous model sleds took out the (3) 8mm bolts and washers from the back of the secondary to adjust belt deflection....same way that Yamaha has changed how the belt deflection is on the sidewinder. Guess what? Now your secondary does not float at an idle, but will float when you push in on your helix as if you were going to remove your belt

When the Sidewinder came out, Yamaha did not put the (3) 8mm bolts in the rear of the secondary. Yamaha's new method of controlling belt deflection is by the washers on the main secondary bolt. If your belt is squealing, you can take the main bolt off the secondary shaft and take out 1 of the smaller washers next to the aluminum spacer. This will allow the large washer that holds your secondary on the shaft to push in on the helix allowing the sheaves to open for a larger belt or a new, (not worn) belt.

Either way, 1 of the best and easiest ways to adjust your belt tension is with an aftermarket belt adjuster tool

So, I am hoping this makes sense to all of you
 

Excellent write up that clears up a lot of confusion about the "new" method of floating the secondary clutch since the SideWinder first came out.

Thanks for taking the time to make it so easy to understand for for guys like me who are easily confused :)

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Thank you Don
 
The easiest way to check how much float in your secondary at fully closed & fully open is to mount your secondary on the sled with no spring in it . With the rollers contacting the ramps & with all the same washers in place and what ever you mount the secondary with .
 
A0A4B978-0572-48BE-B3E3-69A00C3B90C2.jpeg 2 washers between the two secondary sheaves 30 thousands thick will put u in the ballpark with the 8JP belt or use 1 30thousands thick for the 8DN belt . Then u can get rid of the big heavy washer on the helix. I used a woodies stud washer lol
 
We have received far too many calls from owners of Sidewinders complaining that their secondary doesn't float because people on social media think the sidewinder should float just like the Viper or previous 4 stroke sleds and thought I would take a little time to thoroughly explain what is going on. The Sidewinder secondary clutch will not float at an idle. If it does, your sled probably moves on it's own because there is nothing keeping the belt from trying to climb in the secondary.

Stock Sidewinder and to anyone running a belt deflection adjusting tool like our Belt Deflection and Belt removal tool.
At an idle, you will not have float. Does your secondary float? Yes it does! But you will not see it at an idle.
Do this to check your float.... With the sled on a stand or parked from idling, with the engine off, you will see the secondary does not float in and out. Now, push in on the helix as if you were going to remove your belt. With the belt down in the secondary, grab your secondary clutch and move it in and out..... you can now see that your secondary does in fact float.

All Yamaha previous sleds (other than the Sidewinder) used the (3) 8mm bolts on the rear of the secondary to adjust for belt deflection. As your belt wore, you could add a 1mm washer to each of the (3) 8mm bolts. This would allow the secondary sheaves to close up, thus bringing your belt higher up in the secondary sheaves. When installing a new belt, people would be complaining that their belt is squealing and were told to remove the washers from the (3) 8mm bolts on the back of the secondary. This would allow the bolts to open the secondary more to allow for a new or wider belt. Those that have added a belt adjuster/belt removal tool on previous model sleds took out the (3) 8mm bolts and washers from the back of the secondary to adjust belt deflection....same way that Yamaha has changed how the belt deflection is on the sidewinder. Guess what? Now your secondary does not float at an idle, but will float when you push in on your helix as if you were going to remove your belt

When the Sidewinder came out, Yamaha did not put the (3) 8mm bolts in the rear of the secondary. Yamaha's new method of controlling belt deflection is by the washers on the main secondary bolt. If your belt is squealing, you can take the main bolt off the secondary shaft and take out 1 of the smaller washers next to the aluminum spacer. This will allow the large washer that holds your secondary on the shaft to push in on the helix allowing the sheaves to open for a larger belt or a new, (not worn) belt.

Either way, 1 of the best and easiest ways to adjust your belt tension is with an aftermarket belt adjuster tool

So, I am hoping this makes sense to all of you
Nice wright up, but the stock secondary does have float i removed all of mine for my preference but should be around 3mm from factory, another thing is when shimming for a worn belt you introduce more offset, i originally had my offset set to 59mm stock with zero float once i added a washer to bring the worn belt back up too 1.5mm above the secondary it added float 59-60 mm now
 
Nice wright up, but the stock secondary does have float i removed all of mine for my preference but should be around 3mm from factory, another thing is when shimming for a worn belt you introduce more offset, i originally had my offset set to 59mm stock with zero float once i added a washer to bring the worn belt back up too 1.5mm above the secondary it added float 59-60 mm now

Shimming for belt deflection has no effect on offset at all.
Your primary shaft must have moved inward from blowing belts....
 
Shimming for belt deflection has no effect on offset at all.
Your primary shaft must have moved inward from blowing belts....
Never blew a belt on the sled. In 1500 miles my belt was flush with the top of the secondary, by adding a 1 mm washer as per manual states the belt is now 1.5 mm above the secondary again, now there is float in the secondary from 59mm to 60 mm, don't know why any one would want an auto adjuster when the clutch is so easy to set up stock and so easy to remove belts anyway when tighting up the clutch bolt the secondary pulls together or up the helix some to tighten up the sheaves essentially narrowing the secondary so unless you shim for no float again the clutch is going to float period
 
Never blew a belt on the sled. In 1500 miles my belt was flush with the top of the secondary, by adding a 1 mm washer as per manual states the belt is now 1.5 mm above the secondary again, now there is float in the secondary from 59mm to 60 mm, don't know why any one would want an auto adjuster when the clutch is so easy to set up stock and so easy to remove belts anyway when tighting up the clutch bolt the secondary pulls together or up the helix some to tighten up the sheaves essentially narrowing the secondary so unless you shim for no float again the clutch is going to float period

Do your research... it's on here.
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