Sidewinder Helix

[shagman]

Stock helix - my run would be 8,900 - 9,000 -9,100 - 9,100 - 9,000 - and finish off at 8,9XX

Reverse angle - 9,200 - 9,200 - 9,100 - 9,000 - 8,900 - and finish at 8,8XX

This is why the sled will stand up so easy, because of the reverse angle helix

Another reason to set the clutching like this is so that you always know your not slipping the belt on a longer run at top end.


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[ROCKERDAN]

Stock helix - my run would be 8,900 - 9,000 -9,100 - 9,100 - 9,000 - and finish off at 8,9XX

Reverse angle - 9,200 - 9,200 - 9,100 - 9,000 - 8,900 - and finish at 8,8XX

This is why the sled will stand up so easy, because of the reverse angle helix

thnx bud...so you are basically flashing higher for more bottom/mid rpms and pull, then steeper angle tails it back down on the top end where you want it....

What are you running for gearing?

thx

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Another reason to set the clutching like this is so that you always know your not slipping the belt on a longer run at top end.


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Agree with this alot, these big top end numbers with all the HP able to pull it, but seems the torsional setup cannot hold it back enough to grip belt when its down deep into secondary. I know i do far better with clean clutches with a compression spring and top speed runs. Any way there is a compression setup that would fit? with the QRS on doo I can swap back and forth from torsion to compression testing back to back, and compression always wins bottom,mid and top.

 

[fatchance]

NOS would the stock winder benefit from the reverse helix down low or does it not have enough grunt?

 

[NOS-PRO]

thnx bud...so you are basically flashing higher for more bottom/mid rpms and pull, then steeper angle tails it back down on the top end where you want it....

What are you running for gearing?

thx

Stock 21/41

 

[shagman]

Agree with this alot, these big top end numbers with all the HP able to pull it, but seems the torsional setup cannot hold it back enough to grip belt when its down deep into secondary. I know i do far better with clean clutches with a compression spring and top speed runs. Any way there is a compression setup that would fit? with the QRS on doo I can swap back and forth from torsion to compression testing back to back, and compression always wins bottom,mid and top.

Not that I know of.


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[NOS-PRO]

NOS would the stock winder benefit from the reverse helix down low or does it not have enough grunt?

Yes, especially down low.
Then a little more pull on top

 

[dsimonRX1]

Just received my 35/39 Dalton helix - but it's been raining here for three days.......

 

[Beerman]

Just received my 35/39 Dalton helix - but it's been raining here for three days.......

Is the spring pocket the same depth as stock or do they have some overdrive built in?

 

[newtron]

Yes, especially down low.
Then a little more pull on top

I can see this maybe working on a plowed track, but going across a lake in 6" of fresh snow wouldn't your rpms just drop too much on top end?? Kinda get that bogg sensation trying to upshift.

 

[Doowithblue]

I was thinking mine needs a 33-36 or in and around there.

 

[shagman]

I can see this maybe working on a plowed track, but going across a lake in 6" of fresh snow wouldn't your rpms just drop too much on top end?? Kinda get that bogg sensation trying to upshift.

They don't drop very much. No trouble with upshift. That is why the rpms are higher thru midrange. This setup work good even off trail. Higher hp/ torque sleds don't fall off as much because of better power to weight ratio. But gearing plays a part also. If you gear up for more speed it will fall off more in heavy or more snow and won't be able to pull as well. It's a give and take game depending on hp and gearing. Just make sure you get your setup so that you are at peak rpms in ideal conditions and it will pull good thru deep or wet snow. You will see a little rpm drop under these conditions but it's still good as there is a big flat power curve to these sleds up top.


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[newtron]

Thanks shagman.

Just looking back at the thread and I see u guys are starting at 9200 which is why u would like to bring the rpm down for sure.

With a stock sled, stock clutching it hits around 8800 then drops to 8700 on a long pull. I don't think the reverse angle will help with the pure stock sleds. IMO

 

[jonlafon1]

Sometimes guys try to clutch a four stroke like a two stroke. And coming from that side more so, its hard for me at times.. I kind of think of it this way > two strokes come on fast and hard down low and kind of drop off or flatten out fairly quick up top. So more helix angle(motor loads against) to start or down low where the most power is or comes on fastest, then as the power flattens out you have less helix angle. this helps hold your power curve instead of dropping off. So you might run a 46/40 helix (common).. 48/39.. etc.
The four stroke/TURBO, has a massive power band that starts fairly early, and lasts LONG and builds with more boost pressure.. SO you would start with a angle and increase the angle with boost and give the power something to work against. A straight angle helix ALSO works good (stock) because the Turbo power band lasts so long. Hence the pull your arms and keeps pulling with boost build. I think sometimes its hard to think you need maybe a smidge more helix angle on the finish(upper end/top end) with these sleds. Think about having that boost build-- something to work against(helix angle) instead of just revving out/ running out against a lower helix angle .. LOAD it against something. Have the most helix angle where the most power is in the power band(generally)..

The Viper/7000 cat had a big power band down low and held fairly decent but would drop off up top.. Not as drastic as a two stroke(but very close)..(General terms)
But no boost so not nearly as long or flat a power band.. So I believe most guys were running a helix with a higher number first and dropped from that.. Say 44/40

Hope this might help some guys. And surely there are many other variables involved in clutching a sled.. Sure there are other schools of thought on clutching also.. Just My two cents and still learning about the turbo side of things, my first turbo. Myself I have a straight 38 to run on my sled (boosted 13psi). I feel the straight angle is decent also.. But totally understand the 35/39 helix and why on this sled.

 

[Scottyvodka]

Thanks.. Not sure it makes a huge difference but on mine 6/1 tightened up my rollers on helix.. seems to increase backshift though.

Might loose a little top end but will back shift and be better corner to corner.