Started my Edge skid today...DONE!

[Jack_Shaft]

So, did you sink the skid further into the tunnel?

 

[kinger]

Not yet, I shredded my a arms on Friday and have to get them fixed first and now I am gone all week traveling for work. I'll get on it this weekend coming up. Also going to go with HD springs at the same time. I will keep you posted, I want to the rear coupling arms to rest on the FRSS when its just sitting there, spings and a near 'flat' installation should be the ticket.

 

[Jack_Shaft]

I put mine right up into the tunnel today, no drop brackets or anything. I just used some plate to reinforce the mounting point for the rear torque arm mount.

My rails now sits flat when unloaded and the sit-in sag is pretty much eliminated. Seems stiffer, which would make sense now that the two arms are stroking in unison for the entire travel. I will hopefully get out for a run tomorrow to try and dial in the ride and the weight transfer.

Maybe I'll snap some pics too.

 

[kinger]

Awesome take some pics! I will finally get to working on mine tommorrow, got my front end all replaced and a heater for the garage in today.

I am going to mount the skid with the front mount just lightly lower then the rear (2mm) and that will be the exact dimensions of the edge placement.

One question when your off the sled does the coupling arms rest on the front blocks?

 

[Jack_Shaft]

My rear scissors (well, the lower part of the rear scissors, the drop link) are pretty much up against it now yes.

I do have one more thing I want to change and that's the point where the rear scissors (drop link) mounts to the rail. Right now it is in the rear most of the three holes, which will make the skid super-stiff. I think I'm going to put it back into the middle hole, which is where most Pro-X's on HCS.com have theirs mounted. Hard to argue with what works best on the ACTUAL sled

I need to get you some pics here soon... bigass snow storm here today so I'll get some pics of that too.

 

[Jack_Shaft]

Here's a few pics...

Also includes a pic of my "other" trusty Yamaha 4 stroke, my YS-624 snowblower, which is getting a heck of a workout today!

 

[kinger]

Awesome work! Tell me more about the walker evans up front!!

I relocated mine up into the tunnel 1" and it didn't help much a little, (spring cam was on medium and roller was in the middle) I added spring tension by moving the roller up to the front hole and it was immediately better! I then took the spring came and rotated so the tall side was up and voila! No more bottoming out, it gets awfully close but won't do it and more importantly it bounces back up. (before it would stay down)

Mine still doesn't rest on the FRSS like yours but I have HD springs coming and I am almost certain it will take care of that last 1.5" I'm missing. Just bouncing on the back end gets me so excited to go out and play! I will be on a trip going from wed to wed and will probably put 500 miles on, and I will report back then. I'm sure I'll still have to upgrade springs but that is getting to be a easy job for me to drop the rear.

Let me know about those walker evans!

 

[Jack_Shaft]

Awesome work! Tell me more about the walker evans up front!!

They came from a 2006 IQ 440, guys on SnoWest are selling them all the time. I had to drill out the T bushings on each side of the heim joint to get the stock Yamaha bolts to fit in them (originally 3/8" holes on the Polaris), then I used some flat washers to place them properly in the wide shock mount gaps that Yamaha uses compared to Polaris. Otheer than that, it's a bolt on mod with no mods required to your RX-1 so it can be returned to stock easily if you decide to sell.

I added spring tension by moving the roller up to the front hole and it was immediately better! I then took the spring came and rotated so the tall side was up and voila! No more bottoming out, it gets awfully close but won't do it and more importantly it bounces back up. (before it would stay down)

Hmmm... I don't think I have any front spring perch mounting options, just the one. Interesting though, you would think that the 136" and 121" versions would be the same/similar. maybe I just need to look a little harder, but with the HD springs, that's not really needed.

Mine still doesn't rest on the FRSS like yours but I have HD springs coming and I am almost certain it will take care of that last 1.5" I'm missing.

I don't think mine would have rested up against the FRSS without the HD springs either. The hardest thing I am dealing with now is that I think my sled is too low now, but that's only because the thing was sky high before. I know that if I was to line up with a stock Warrior I'd be about the same height, which is what I should be aiming for if I want to maintain good handling.

I am still wrestling with weight transfer too; I once had a ton but with my current set-up it's not sp great. I think I'm going to move my RRSS way back into that extra hole I drilled to get that back, I really use the weight transfer a lot in the few trips that I make into the mountains each year, so I want it back.

 

[kinger]

Cool, I'm going to keep my eye out for those shocks. Did you have to revalve at all?

The roller that holds the long section of the rear spring does that have holes front and rear? Mine do and that is there to adjust sit in I guess, you use that to dial that in then leave it. If you sit on your sled and it sags 3-4" I guess that is the correct set up.

I was hoping the transfer would be unreal with this skid, I was under the impression it was much better then the pro action.

 

[Jack_Shaft]

I was hoping the transfer would be unreal with this skid, I was under the impression it was much better then the pro action.

Oh it is, it is! You just have to work on the set-up. Once I move my blocks further back I'll go for a spin tonight, I'm sure I'll get that transfer back considering that the rear scissors are all the way forward against the FRSS now. That will be a loooooong arc swing back to the RRSS, by that time the skis should be skyward.

I'm glad to have somebody to troubleshoot this install with now, before I was pretty much alone and firing in the dark.

 

[kinger]

How far back did you go with the new block holes? That would be a LONG arc, I'm surprised you aren't getting it now though. How much sag are you getting when its sitting there unloaded and when you get on it as measured at the rear bumper? Should be 3-4" on a 121" probably a little more on your 136" Maybe you need to relax your HD springs a little bit??

 

[Jack_Shaft]

I'm not getting as much sit-in as before but I still get about 2" which I consider as enough.

Perhaps I will turn the HD springs down on position #1 (lowest) from #2 tonight and try that too. Hope to go for a good run this evening, will have more to post then.

 

[kinger]

I guess its critical that you get 3-4" erroring closer to 4" for a good ride, transfer, etc. The spring cam sounds good and easy to. Do your spring rollers have different holes? If so move it forward which is less tension and will give you more sit in. JBshocks says this is the way to dial in sit in, then start adjusting from there. I don't know for sure but now that mine is in and i can play with all the adjustments and dial it in.

I moved my spring rollers BACK instead of forward and i lost some preload but it doesn't bottom out ie stiffer. I think HD springs set on soft will almost nail it.

Post back, I will post some pictures when I get done out in the garage!

 

[kinger]

Here are some new shots of my relocated, I'm still udner teh running boards but I mounted the front as low as I could.

 

[Jack_Shaft]

No, I have no additional holes for the front spring perch, I'd have to drill to move it and I'll only do that if I can't tune in the ride via the rear cam and the drop link position.

After drilling my sled to death already, I'm going to try to work around that first.