Starter Update

[mtotguy]

I now have dozens of starts under various conditions on my latest starter. I have the Evo reflash and a heavier battery cable. The starter seems to spin faster and it just sounds like it's not working as hard as it used to. The engine fires quicker. I haven't had a single kickback. Note: It now seems to work better if I do not wait for the pump to cycle after turning the key on. Rather, go right to the start position. Hot or cold. Engine always fires immediately.

 

[trevorl1]

What gauge did you go with for the battery cable?

 

[mtotguy]

Zero.

 

[cannondale27]

How did you route them? Is a lot of extra length on negative how it crosses over stock. Also did you do both + and -?

 

[mtotguy]

I routed it exactly like the stock cable. Only the +.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I now have dozens of starts under various conditions on my latest starter. I have the Evo reflash and a heavier battery cable. The starter seems to spin faster and it just sounds like it's not working as hard as it used to. The engine fires quicker. I haven't had a single kickback. Note: It now seems to work better if I do not wait for the pump to cycle after turning the key on. Rather, go right to the start position. Hot or cold. Engine always fires immediately.

Happy to hear this

 

[MART1030]

Do you think its worst for the kickback if using regular gaz the explosion come sooner in the cycle
Mayby whit premium gaz it retard the explosion and less chance of kickback
Do you think it can make a diffirence or it all in my head ??

 

[cannondale27]

Do you think its worst for the kickback if using regular gaz the explosion come sooner in the cycle
Mayby whit premium gaz it retard the explosion and less chance of kickback
Do you think it can make a diffirence or it all in my head ??

Its not a ignition kickback. No way that can possibly happen since nobody has experienced knocking or predetonation. The so called kickback is nothing more than a missfire in the cycle when on the compression stroke. The fireing of the other cylinder on the Powerstroke doesnt happen for one reason or another so starter has no help to rotate motor. Thats why holding the key on till its running and a second longer is so important. Its impossible for the plugs to fire early and cause this and it is also not ever going to preignite on a cold motor since there will never be predetonation cold unless you were to put Diesel in it.

 

[Studroes144]

Very interested in the cable swap! From a couple people I've talked to it sounds like that could be one of the major issues, just speculation, but no reason to think otherwise. Can you give us more info on the wire, what you used and any special tips or tricks?

 

[bbquadrider]

Did you happen to do a voltage drop test before changing the cable.?

via big bad phone

 

[mtotguy]

Very interested in the cable swap! From a couple people I've talked to it sounds like that could be one of the major issues, just speculation, but no reason to think otherwise. Can you give us more info on the wire, what you used and any special tips or tricks?

Removed and measured the old cable. Went to NAPA and bought #0 cable and two terminal lugs. Crimped on the lugs with a bench vise. Installed new cable.
No special tricks. Just need to remove the seat and belly pan. A few years ago I built Model A Ford street rod. I put the battery in the trunk. A new battery would barely crank over the engine. I ended up having to run a welding lead between the starter and the battery because of the length of the cable.

 

[mtotguy]

Did you happen to do a voltage drop test before changing the cable.?

via big bad phone

No. I didn't.

 

[titanrcr]

Its not a ignition kickback. No way that can possibly happen since nobody has experienced knocking or predetonation. The so called kickback is nothing more than a missfire in the cycle when on the compression stroke. The fireing of the other cylinder on the Powerstroke doesnt happen for one reason or another so starter has no help to rotate motor. Thats why holding the key on till its running and a second longer is so important. Its impossible for the plugs to fire early and cause this and it is also not ever going to preignite on a cold motor since there will never be predetonation cold unless you were to put Diesel in it.

I have to disagree with your opinion on this. I'm guessing you are on the original ECU flash? What I have experienced is a kickback from too much timing advance. Engine cranking and comes to an abrupt stop. As your explaining a missfire of one cylinder and failure of the next cylinder to fire on it's power stroke what is causing the engine to come to an instant stop? In that situation the engine would just continue to crank, no reason for it to stop cranking. If I knew that the new ignition module from Dynotec was capable of altering the timing below 500 or 1000 rpm I would go ahead and retard it a few degrees just for starting and leave everything else the same. Maybe someone with the module could try this so we would know whats really going on. Also keep in mind that just because an engine fires a few degrees BTDC does not mean it will detonate or knock.

 

[yamahaguy]

Just curious but why not replace the negative cable also? If you were to do a current draw test on either the negative or positive cable the amperage draw would be the same therefore the gauge of the wire should be the same on both.
Or is the negative cable a larger gauge to begin with?

 

[titanrcr]

Just curious but why not replace the negative cable also? Or is the negative cable a larger gauge to begin with?

That's just what I was thinking...