Starter Update

[cannondale27]

Look at the size of battery cable, now look at surface if you bolt the cable to the thin aluminum tunnel. Not enough surface to carry the load in my opinion. When we remote mounted batteries in the back of stock cars we always bolted battery leads to the frame and not any thin metal. You could bolt negative to tunnel but would need a patch of some kind to distribute the amperage

You would still have both. Ground to starter with cable and ground to chassis with strap or wire. That is how it is done on everything I have owned.

 

[Dmarks]

Oh man this whole topic on electron flow, positive and negative ions, hole theory and basic electricity can and will overwhelm some people lol. But in order to understand the system some things must be understood just like the other statements prior to this. Voltage drop needs to be done prior to ever changing out the positive cable. The only reason for this is to see if there is any change. Also the starter not being fused is very common, but some safety measures might be in place such as a fuseable link that will burn up when current gets to high. I love this topic and like the way people have thought this out. Definitely watching this

 

[cannondale27]

No fusible link

 

[cannondale27]

My point in this is I suspect the wiring to be a source of ECU glitches. Just a guess though but based on the fact that it is different wiring than other vehicles.

 

[stingray719]

My point in this is I suspect the wiring to be a source of ECU glitches. Just a guess though but based on the fact that it is different wiring than other vehicles.

Quality of ECU may play a large part here, especially when flashing in a manner that no reputable computer motherboard manufacture would consider doing (direct flash across WAN) Those of us without problems before flash and after would point to not a design flaw but hardware/software flaw. Just an opinion though.............